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  #76  
Old 08-13-2007
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5W-20 Fully synthetic oil for the 2.3L engine. Other size motors require 5W-30, so check your manual, or oil fill cap.
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  #77  
Old 08-14-2007
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Mobile 1 Fully Synthetic/Motorcraft 820s Oil Filter. every 3000 miles
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  #78  
Old 08-14-2007
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The last time I bought Mobile1 fully synthetic I saw that they have 5-30 and 5-30 truck/suv whats the difference? They are both fully synthetic 5w-30 grade......
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  #79  
Old 08-14-2007
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this maybe a dumb question, bt what is the difference between 5w30 and 10w30? If my truck calls for 5w30 cpuld I use 10w30 instead? Thanks
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  #80  
Old 08-14-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark123
this maybe a dumb question, bt what is the difference between 5w30 and 10w30? If my truck calls for 5w30 cpuld I use 10w30 instead? Thanks
I believe 10W 30 is thicker. Using thicker oil then what is recommended has could have tragic results. I blew up my trans am using 10w40 cause I was young and dumb thinking the big v8 could handle the thicker oil
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  #81  
Old 08-14-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n0thing43
The last time I bought Mobile1 fully synthetic I saw that they have 5-30 and 5-30 truck/suv whats the difference? They are both fully synthetic 5w-30 grade......
It is supposed to have a more "robust" add-pack. Here is a quote form Mobil's web site...


"Newly formulated fully synthetic Mobil 1® Truck & SUV 5W-30 is engineered for hard-working gasoline engines. It contains extra anti-oxidant, which can provide greater protection against deposit formation in hard-working gasoline trucks, vans, SUVs and recreational vehicles. The new energy-conserving formulation meets the latest industry standards for gasoline engines.



Mobil 1 Truck & SUV's key benefits include:

Extra performance additive helps provide exceptional performance under all operating conditions, and additional protection for engines that operate under heavy load or stress, including towing, hauling and other severe service.


Unique fully synthetic formula helps reduce the formation of harmful engine deposits and sludge to keep engines cleaner longer.


Outstanding performance during the maximum oil change interval recommended in your owner's manual.


Approved for use and exceeds warranty requirements for gasoline, turbocharged and diesel engines in the following applications: "
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  #82  
Old 08-14-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark123
this maybe a dumb question, bt what is the difference between 5w30 and 10w30? If my truck calls for 5w30 cpuld I use 10w30 instead? Thanks
quick Google search and got this answer for you.....

I did a quick Google search and got this answer for you.........

About Motor Oil: Oil Weight or Viscosity Grade. What does 5W-30 mean?
Motor Oil weight and viscosity grade

Motor oil comes in many different weights and viscosity grades. The motor oil weight or viscosity grade, such as 10W-40, specifies the oil's thickness, or viscosity. Viscosity is basically a measurement of resistance to flow. The higher the number, the thicker the motor oil. Thicker more viscous oil tends to protect against wear better, but it can also steal horse power and gas mileage from your engine because it's harder to pump and has more drag on engine parts. Thin oil flows easier, which results in better gas mileage.

Overall, synthetic motor oil flows easier than conventional oil, which in turn provides better gas mileage. For example, 10W-40 synthetic motor oil flows much easier than 10W-40 conventional motor oil.


You should always use approved motor oil for your vehicle. Using improper oil could damage your vehicle. Always refer to your owner's manual to find the recommended oil, or contact your local motor oil dealer.

Most vehicles can operate under a small range of motor oil weights. Choosing the right motor oil for your vehicle will depend on many things, such as the climate and the driving conditions.

The most popular motor oil weights and viscosity grades are covered below:

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SAE 5W-30

Climate Conditions: Performs well in sub-zero temperatures

A relatively thin motor oil that provides excellent fuel economy and low temperature performance. Used primarily in newer model automobiles. Recommended for new vehicles.
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SAE 10W-30

Climate Conditions: Performs well in temperatures above zero degrees F

A slightly thicker version of 5W-30 motor oil. Frequently recommended for most automobile engines, including high-performance multi-valve and turbo-charged engines.
*
SAE 10W-40

Climate Conditions: Performs well in temperatures above zero degrees F

A thicker oil that provides excellent viscosity. Works well for controlling engine wear and preventing oil breakdown from oxidation. This heavier weight oil performs better in hotter climates. Typically recommended in vehicles and trucks with larger engines. Possibly a little too thick for wintertime in some cold climates.
*
SAE 20W-50

Climate Conditions: Performs well in temperatures above 20 degrees F

Maximum protection for high-performance, high-RPM engines because of its high viscosity. An excellent oil for hot climates and towing at high speeds for long periods of time.
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  #83  
Old 08-15-2007
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I was at wally world the other day and saw sae 30 oil what is that? Thanks
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  #84  
Old 08-15-2007
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The 30 weight oil you saw, is not what you want for your truck. You want a multi-viscosity oil such as a 5W-20 or 5W-30, that works better at various temperatures. Manufacturer's recommend this.

But then again, some people will still buy it because they don't know any better, or they need it for other purposes such as machines, chain saws etc......
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  #85  
Old 08-15-2007
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^^^ I run straight weight racing oil in my boat (350 Chevy), BUT it only runs in the summer when the weather is 60+ degrees.
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  #86  
Old 08-15-2007
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Marine oils are cool stuff!

Anyway, for what it's worth.. I tore apart my lightning engine with right at 30k miles on it. All kinds of driving. Racing on a 100shot of nitrous, towed the boat, towed a winter car home, drove the truck daily in nice weather, crusied woodward, and even took it on a few out of state vacations too.

Broke it in on 5w-20 ford semi-syn (2500 miles) & always used 10w-30 mobil 1 bought in the 5 quart jugs at wal-mart. Used pure-o-later "pure one" filter bought at Advance auto.

During the tear down I did not find one spec of evidence that there was any coking. I'm even re-using the factory lifters! (Not one of them was sticky)
The bottom of the heads and the oil pan had zero sludge or even any kind of flim.

It's good stuff IMO (and experience)

Rich
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  #87  
Old 08-15-2007
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^^^^Rich, you went from 5-20 to 10-30? Isn't that hard on the motor? I mean, that is a big difference in viscosity...
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  #88  
Old 08-15-2007
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And the loads on those rod bearings were a lot higher too.

Rich
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  #89  
Old 08-15-2007
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I just thought because Ford has such tight tolerances on the new motors that 10-30 would be too thick... It makes me wonder now, my GF's Taurus calls for 5-30 (built in 1998) but the dealer told me to run 5-20 in it. They said 5-20 wasn't around when that car was built, but the newer 3.0 vulcans are recommended to run that...
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  #90  
Old 08-15-2007
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At the shop where I had the Mobile 1 installed, they said once you start with a synthetic oil, you should stick with it, because switching back and forth between synthetic oil and regular oil is hard on an engine.

So anyhow, after running the truck a couple of days with the Mobil 1, I like the change in engine performance. It seems to run smoother and a little more power, and also quieter. I filled up yesterday, so I'll be checking the gas mileage at the next fill up.
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  #91  
Old 08-16-2007
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Wayne, you can switch back and forth between synthetic and dino with no problems, but why would anybody want to? It will probably take several hundred miles before you see any mileage gain.
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  #92  
Old 08-16-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PW01
Wayne, you can switch back and forth between synthetic and dino with no problems, but why would anybody want to? It will probably take several hundred miles before you see any mileage gain.
Well if the price of the synthetic oil skyrocketed I might switch back...you never know.

I don't know if I'll see a mileage gain at all, but I'm watching it. I did notice an immediate improvement in performance, not a major improvement, but it does sound better and has a little more pep.
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  #93  
Old 08-24-2007
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I have not seen it mentioned here, but have seen the question asked. multi weigh/varible weight oil is rated in 2 numbers 5-20/10-30 etc because the first number is the cold viscosity and the second number is the warm viscosity. Straight weight oils such as 30 or 40 weight do not change as they warm up. This takes into account that when an engine is cold the oil is thicker and does not get everywhere it needs to, so less viscosity at those temps is needed. Then as it heats up the needs of the engine change and the oil changes with it. Imagine syrup out of the fridge vs out of the microwave. Cold syrup aint gettin in the nooks and crannies of your waffles.....but hot syrup just runs all over the place. Now imagine if you had syrup that when cold ran around pretty good, but even after putting it on the hot pancakes stuck in place instead of heating up and getting thin.

Thats what multiweight does!
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  #94  
Old 08-24-2007
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That's a really good explanation of oil viscosity, thank you.

I checked my mpg since I changed over to the Mobile 1 synthetic oil, and first tankfull worked out to 18.77, that's a jump up from 17-17.5 that I was getting. This is about 98% city driving.

Last edited by dj wayne; 08-24-2007 at 08:15 PM.
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  #95  
Old 08-24-2007
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I guess I should have added, that companies make different motors with different clearances...basically the distance between moving parts. Thinner oil is needed for tighter clearances. Thats why modern motors are using finer oil because the machining and such has gotten a bunch better with getting parts made just right. Basically in the old days they were pretty sloppy and now they have gotten better requiring a thinner oil to get down in the nooks and crannies (of the waffle if you want to go back there).
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  #96  
Old 08-24-2007
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Base oil technology has come so far in the past 15 years that the "synthetic v. dino" oil debate is hardly worth the mental energy any more. The real question these days is: what kind of additive package does the oil have?

For example, there may be a problem developing for those of us who own an older flat tappet cammer now that the SL-rated oils are being replaced by the SM-rated stuff. The reason for this potential problem is as follows: As phosphorus limits continue to fall in the newer oil formulations, the amount of the ZDDP (Zinc) additive falls with it. This additive is regarded as the absolute best bang for the buck when it comes to protection from engine wear, particularly at the single highest friction point in the engine - the cam/lifter interface. Granted, many of the newer cars and light trucks today use roller cam assemblies, so this reduction in ZDDP seemingly does not pose as much of a threat to these engines. However, most overhead cam engines don't use roller lifters, and even a lot of the "older" so-called "overhead valve" engines don't use them, either. So there's a lot of engines out on the road that can be affected by this.

If you're not convinced by my opinion, then maybe this little tidbit from Comp Cams will help sway you:
Quote:
...Another major factor in the increase of flat tappet camshaft failure is your favorite brand of engine oil. Simply put, today’s engine oil is just not the same as it used to be, thanks to ever tightening environmental regulations. The EPA has done a great job in reducing emissions and the effects of some of the ingredients found in traditional oils; however these changes to the oil have only made life tougher on your camshaft. The lubricity of the oil and specifically the reduction of important additives such as zinc and manganese, which help break-in and overall camshaft life, have been drastically reduced. In terms of oil selection, we recommend Shell Rotella T oil for the break-in procedure. Most often used in diesel engine applications, this higher lubricity oil works in gasoline engines as well.

See the Tech Note in this link: http://powerandperformancenews.com/T...APNV2I10.htm#1
In short, the focus today should really be on the the add packs, not on the base oils.


P.S. If I told you I use Rotella T 5W-40 in all my vehicles, would you be surprised?

Last edited by Rockledge; 08-24-2007 at 08:17 PM.
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  #97  
Old 09-14-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dj wayne
That's a really good explanation of oil viscosity, thank you.

I checked my mpg since I changed over to the Mobile 1 synthetic oil, and first tankfull worked out to 18.77, that's a jump up from 17-17.5 that I was getting. This is about 98% city driving.

Okay I checked the mpg on the second tankfull, I averaged about 18.19 mpg that's 100% city driving.....not bad considering it's been three weeks since I filled it up, ........248 miles in three weeks, sheesh....
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  #98  
Old 09-15-2007
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putting royal purple in my engine and tranny this wknd.
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  #99  
Old 09-16-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n0thing43
Mobile 1 Fully Synthetic/Motorcraft 820s Oil Filter. every 3000 miles
Same combo I use. You can easily run that for 5000 miles, any less and you're wasting your money
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  #100  
Old 09-16-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PW01
Same combo I use. You can easily run that for 5000 miles, any less and you're wasting your money
Manufacturer's specs say 5,000 mile or six months, whatever comes first, so I'll probably be changing mine after the six months is up, as I won't have that many miles on it. Who am I to disagree with the manufacturer's technicians and designers ??

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