Usually while driving down the road, but occasionally when I go to start my truck first thing in the morning I have an issue. If I am driving down the road and she acts up here are the symptoms:
Speedometer inoperative
Tachometer inoperative
Temp Gauge inoperative
Mileage reads dashes (ex. "--------")
And CEL illuminates
Ole Ranger will run just fine until I shut her off. Once that happens I have a no crank situation.
I also have no communication with the pcm to pull codes to see what I'm working with. Today I noticed that after the anti-theft light stops strobing it will display PATS Flash code 16. Upon further investigation online I am willing to wager a bet that I throw a cluster in and program it that my issue will be resolved. Before I spend the money on a junkyard cluster and licensing to program said cluster through my shop's computer I would like to see if anyone has any feedback.

Thanks,
Chris

This photo was taken after she acted up. I was actually going about 20mph in this moment and the engine was spinning somewhere around 1500rpm and engine was at temp.

 

Welcome to the forum

What YEAR Ranger, 2004 to 2011 had HEC Clusters

PATS code 16 is a CAN Bus error, network error

2008 CAN Bus wiring below

The PCM should STILL have a connection to OBD2 port(DLC) if just the HEC cluster is the issue

So could be PCM issue if you can't connect to it

Tach and temp for dash come thru the CAN bus wires from the PCM to the HEC cluster

I would put HEC in test mode and see if it tests OK or has codes for bad communication with PCM

PATS module is in the HEC Cluster, BUT.....................it just tells PCM its "OK to start" and the PCM then Grounds starter relay so engine can crank with key in START

It is certainly possible the HEC is sending out data constantly with key on, so CAN bus is disabled, like a DOS attack, but I would still think you could get OBD2 reader to connect

I assume you have done a "master reset", unhook battery for 5 minutes, lol?

 

Thanks for the response, RonD

2007 2.3L 2wd manual transmission, manual locks, manual windows, and white. About as base model as you can get besides having AC and a radio lol.

Yes, I have tried the ole master reset. It works sometimes, but I believe when it works it's not really resetting that fixes it, it's just coincidence. A little more of a back story to the issue is that now that it has acted up today this makes 3 years in a row that I have this issue when the weather warms up (and gets much more humid here in TN). I have 2 programmed keys in my possession and swapping keys I still have the same issue. Its is an extremely intermittent problem, and it corrects on it's own. Sometimes in 5 minutes and sometimes in several days. In the past I have had communication with a scanner while it was acting up, but this time I used a much lower quality scanner that hasn't been used in about a year. It is possible the scanner is having it's own issue.

Just an our or two ago when I posted the thread my truck would not start. Now it will and hasn't acted up since. And I did nothing to resolve the issue myself.

 

I would do the HEC test mode and see what B and C codes it has in memory, have a camera read they can scroll by pretty fast on some models

B = body codes
C = Chassis codes
P = Powertrain codes, the ones we are used to seeing with a OBD Reader

I assume the tach and temp stop working only when its acting up

I would try this, 2007 HEC wiring below(2008 wiring above, is correct for 2007 as well)
Pull the 3 fuses that power the cluster

Then turn key on and see if you can connect to PCM
Put fuses back, one at a time, and see if it disconnects

 

Just to leave an update my truck wound up being stuck at a local Taco Bell over night because the problem arose when I tried to leave Taco Bell. The next day (Sunday) my boss happened to be at the shop so he kindly took me in his roll back to pick up my truck and bring it back to the shop. I replaced the cluster, he programmed the new cluster and the truck started! Well, as I was leaving the same thing happened, but this time it went back to normal in a matter of minutes. It will still occasionally do this, so just tonight I decided to check my Smart Junction Box and surrounding area for water intrusion since this is an issue the Rangers are known for. I did find signs of water intrusion, so I pulled a couple of the connectors and found some corrosion on the pins of the SJB. I am going to locate a new (to me) SJB and replace that unit and after some time I will return to this thread to leave feedback. Thank you, RonD, for your help.

 

Thanks for the update, good info