I looked him up but he hasn't pmed me back

 

BTW anyone know if bump stops are recomended for the rear? As in hydro bump stops? Lots of ppl recomend them for the front but I can't find much info for the rear.


Also for Shock Info.

The kit says "14" of usable wheel travel with 4wd" Does that mean I should run a 14inch travel shock?

For the rear deavers it says "and can give up to 17" of wheel travel." Does that mean I should run a 16inch travel shock?

BTW I am thinking of running these shocks all around. let me know your opinions

http://www.theshockguy.com/remote_reservoir_2_5.html
or for the extra $100
http://www.theshockguy.com/piggyback_2_5.html

 

buy the shocks from the guy that is a member here. www.f-o-a.com

btw run bigger travel shocks and limit the travel to just a hair shorter then its max. limit it with limit straps and bump stops.

 

He's not a member here. Andy is using a picture from their site for his Avatar, the owner of FOA is a guy named Chris who lives in Vegas. And I can't say those shocks are crap, but go with something proven. There is absolutely no way that they can hold to the tight tolerances of a race shock with the way they are building them. That and there are several things that I really don't like about them.

Besides, I don't think Aaron has a hoop for those shocks since I'm pretty sure there is yet to be a race truck, or play truck for that matter, with a set on it.

No. You have to take into consideration the motion ratio of the shock and the arm that it is attached to. The way the DBR kit is set up the shock is mounted in a 2:1 ratio. So for ever 2" of wheel travel 1" of shock travel is used. So theoretically, with out balljoints or cvs you could get 16" of travel with this kit. But it has to be limited to 14" to stay in the working range of the CVs.

Now the rear is differant. Mount the shocks off the axle straight 'up and down' you would have a 1:1 ratio, meaning a 16" shock would get you 16" of travel. Mount them at a slight angle and you have changed the motion ratio, to say 1:1.25. So now that same 16" shock can get you say 18" of travel. Follow?

And yes, hydrolic bumpstops are great at every corner. And I'm sure everybody you could ask would say that they either want them or have them.

 

He actually is a member, he replyed in my build up thread.

 

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2/member.php?u=6561

 

good info.

 

Huh, no kidding. Well glad to see him over here.

Ridgecrest huh? I though you were in Vegas Chris? (assuming he sees this)

Anyway... I'm still not a fan of the cast. I'd like to have the best on my truck, and having the best means having the tightest tolerances, and whats with "Light" valving? I personally like to know what is in my shocks so I can adjust accordingly. IDK.... more power to FOA and I wish them the best.

 

Good info! thanks for the help. I may need to re read this a few more times but I think I get it lol

 

[QUOTE=rngprerunner]
No. You have to take into consideration the motion ratio of the shock and the arm that it is attached to. The way the DBR kit is set up the shock is mounted in a 2:1 ratio. So for ever 2" of wheel travel 1" of shock travel is used. So theoretically, with out balljoints or cvs you could get 16" of travel with this kit. But it has to be limited to 14" to stay in the working range of the CVs.

Now the rear is differant. Mount the shocks off the axle straight 'up and down' you would have a 1:1 ratio, meaning a 16" shock would get you 16" of travel. Mount them at a slight angle and you have changed the motion ratio, to say 1:1.25. So now that same 16" shock can get you say 18" of travel. Follow?

[QUOTE]

I re read this want to make sure I understand it

So if the DBR kit says 14" of travel. and with a 2:1 ratio, 2 inches of wheel travel means the shock only travel 1 inch then technically that means I only need a 7inch travel shock? So anything over 8 inch would be overkill? then I would put the limit straps and bumpstops at about 13.5" to be safe?

crazy crap

 

i believe you got it now haha.. and yeah 13" or so should be ok, but might want to be a bit safer with a 12"-13" strap giving room for some stretch

 

Only problem is with a 7" shock you would be really close to maxing it out, infact you would. With an 8" there is a buffer. But it doesn't matter anyway because I have yet to see a company offer a 7" 2.5 race shock.

 

this ratio you speak of for travel length, how much angle does it take to gain a 2:1 ratio.

i think im saying that right.

 

Awesome I accually get something lol So 8inch would be good up front. What would be the pros or cons against running a 10inch? I seen there the same price. Just curious

 

Good idea I never though about the stretching

 

There is a lot more to building a functional 'pre runner' than setting it up to jump 5 feet in the air or so. Costs are sky high to build something nice, like Jason said, especially if you want to do it right. I'd normally keep my mouth shut but this whole 'pre runner' title has spread around like some kind of disease, people think the scene is exactly what it's not. Do your research and make sure you know what you're talking about and how everything works before you start on something like this; it's not just white fenders and a tube bumper.

I'd personally stay away from FOA shocks, stick to a name brand (one of the big 4) and you won't be dissappointed.

Pet peeve, again, but it's p-r-o-b-a-b-l-y, not 'prally.' The amount of people on the internet in general that either can't spell or don't take the time to do it correctly apalls me. Coming from the son of a literature/english teacher, it's hard to read!!!

For every 12" of limit strap there will be 1" of stretch.

A 10" shock is too long for the DBR kit, you will bottom the shock out too early and lose up travel. You cant just always get a longer shock and limit it, so be careful of measurements.

 

Thanks for the info. When I started this thread I has "NO" idea what I was talking about. All this was new. I didn't even know what to search. If you take a look at the last 3 pages I have learned alot in the last week. After searchign around I see alot of them "pre runner" rangers with white fenders lol. Not sure if what I am building will be considered a pre runner but with the 14" up front and 17 or so in the back it will be good for what I want it to be.


PS: Sorry about my spelling, It was my worst subject in school

 

prally prally prally...geez

 

Actually, there is one 10" shock that works. Bilstein. Bilstein doesn't offer an 8" shock so when they built Project RangeRunner for Sean Aaron built a custom hoop to accommodate the 10" shock. I'm pretty sure he jigged it and can make that hoop again if somebody wanted to run a Bilstein.

Anyway.. back to the thread...

Yea a 10" is too long and will top out before you hit the bumpstop destroying the shock, and potentially the mounts arms hoops... everything that is then taking the load that it wasn't designed to take.

 

My best advice to you before you do anything is to read, read, read, and read. I used to be a bro with sick white fenders in high school, and thought that Fabtech was the best out there, but it was only after spending about 3-4 years researching this stuff that I got where I'm at. Everyone you ask will tell you that, unless you're lucky enough to have racing as a part of your childhood and get to work on trophy trucks when you're 5, haha.

Jason, good point about Bilstein; I was talking about the kit itself though as offered from Aaron (because the hoop is different for the Bil's).

And shut up smallest ranger, haha.

Don't take what Jason said about the 'nuts and bolts' or small things lightly, as they add up very fast. I thought my L/T was done after throwing down roughly 4k, only to realize I still needed about $300 worth of parts after that. It didn't stop there either; I made about 3-4 more trips at about $50-$100 each, . Definitely smart to be over estimating this stuff as you said, but it will still most likely surprise you.

When you get leaves and shackles, remember to move the hangars back on the frame so the leaves have a cleaner arc through their travel and won't bind like mine did. We finally moved mine back and it's a completely different truck. It only bucks after the shocks fade, now. Hydro bumps are not imperative but are definitely worth it. I have poly bumps on my rear (hydros on the front) and will be putting hydros on the rear once the truck get's linked. More shock is always better, especially at the end of your travel.

 

Thanks. From what I have read SAW will fit my needs just fine. Plus alot of other people run them and they are proven. So 8 inch up front from SAW sounds like the route I need. Now the rear is diffrent.

My thinking of a set up for the rear is to use the Shock Tabs for Rear Spring Plate from dixon brothers and also use the Dixon Bros. 4130 Bedcage. Not sure how much of an angle the shock will be at. Guess I could call and ask lol

 

Jason could help you more with that, but I believe it's set up for a 16" SAW, but any make can be used as long as the hoops are in the right spot (FOX and King are close, Bilstein as well, but SAW is longer). Somone correct me if I'm wrong, this is how I understand it.

 

Thanks for the tip. I was thinking of doing hydros up front and only doing poly in the rear until the future, or if I relize I really do need them.

 

The Dixon bed cage's are set for any of the major four shock brands. Just tell Aaron what you are running and he'll make the right one for you. Same with the front. He may possibly have something setup for Radflo now too since I believe that is what is running on the new race truck (was Fox on the old one).

SAW's are actually shorter than the same lenght other brands. It is because of the way their top cap is designed. It's hard to describe without a diagram, but basicly SAW's top cap thread over the top and the piston stops short of it inside, while the other brands thread onto the top. Get it? Basicly a 16" stroke SAW is 40.5" extended and a King is 43.3" on the race series which is comperable to SAW's. Bilsteins are actually differant that all the others.. they have weird sizes. Like their shocks are actually 2.65" not 2.5, they don't have an 8" or 16" and only come in 10 12 14 or 17". Their 17" shock is 40.8" extended so they are closer to SAW's but with a longer stroke. Like I said, Bilstein is odd... lol

Basicly buy whatever shocks you want, they are mostly the same. I like SAW myself for a few reasons. Like they don't charge extra for Viton seals, they don't charge extra for threaded since they are all threaded. I like that they are shorter, their customer service is top notch, they come with Nitro Steel shafts, shrader valve protectors/seals. Little things like that. They are race quality out of the box, you don't have to spend more for a "race" shock. I can go on and on. But I also have friends with Kings on their trucks and they love them to death and same with Bilstein. So yea... thats my take on shock brands... pick your color.

Damn... Im into writing novels tonight...

 

I see that lol. I am pretty sure SAW are my choice. After reading they are proven, better on the budget. I will call aaron tommorow. I have talked to him once but I really didn't know much at the time. Now that I have an idea of what I want to do I can give him a better idea, and maybe he can shoot me some other good info. Then I can bring up some more questions lol.

I am looking at the SAW Remote Rezzy and the SAW Piggy back.
From what I have read Piggy back would be hard to mount in. But the remote dosen't have a coil. Can this be added?

I am guessing its just a picture, not the accuall shock if you know what I mean

also i want to throw back out zachs quetion.

"this ratio you speak of for travel length, how much angle does it take to gain a 2:1 ratio.

i think im saying that right."


Durrrr I a moron Shock bodies are threaded for both single & dual rate applications, and use standard 3.0” I.D. coil springs. RaceRunner 2.5” shocks come equipped with high strength Com10 Teflon lined steel spherical bearings for high performance racing