I am thinking your style. Yes it said it came with longer CVs.


'98-2005 Ford Ranger 4wd & EDGE 4wd

'95-2001 Ford Explorer 4wd

2001-2005 Ford Explorer Sport-Trac 4wd

14" of usable wheel travel with 4wd
4" wider per side
Extended axles with custom high angle CVs
New Cr-Mo (4130) tube upper control arm, with high-angle balljoint (over 20 degrees more than a uniball)
New boxed plate lower control arm
Uses 8" stroke coilover shocks, not included (replaces torsion bars)
Weld-in shock hoop available for most common shock brands
Retains factory alignment (Caster & Camber)
Optional Hydraulic Bumpstop Mount
Optional steering clevis kit available

 

the DBR kit should be cake compared to what ive done.

rock some 33s with some glass fenders and bed side.

shocks in the rear wont be as much as you priced, unless you are 4 linking it and going coil overs.

 

I always price stuff high so I am not shocked down the road

Not 4 link. I will wait for you lol

I am getting ready to look at glass fender now. Kinda scared of sawing the bedside off lol.

 

what's the point of a prerunner?

 

Go fast over rough stuff..maybe a little jumping

 

This is the set-up I am doing in the rear

http://www.desertrides.com/forum/vie...light=bed+cage

 

edit:nvm lol

 

Thanks for the link but I do not belive that will work on my truck. I am keeping it 4wd. plus it has a arms, not I beam

 

oh crap...lol my bad lol

 

Updated parts list
Dixon Bro Front w/shocks $4,200
Shock Tab Plates $75
Deaver Leafs w/ U bolts and Bushings $570
Shocks in the rear Not sure brand $1,400
Bed Cage $400
Seats ???
5 point $340 pair
Glass fenders (front, Glassworks 6 Inch Bulge) $400
Glass fenders (Rear) $570
Bumper (home made prally)
Limit Straps $30
Hydro Bump Stops $300.00

*These are all extimates, not true figures.

There are some things that could wait. I would go ahead and get the hydro bump stop holder but prally wound't buy them yet. Then I can wait on the seats and 5 point. Also could wait on rear glass. After googling some info alot of ppl do not even run rear glass. I am also thinking of black rims too

 

IMO get the front done first, get it all tunes then figure out what you might need in the rear.

 

exactly what zach said do it in steps not all at once.

 

Your Deaver price is wrong. They have raised their prices, they are $600 now. Most places will give you the u-bolts and bushing with them so you arn't too far off. Also don't forget shackles. Depending on which pack you choose you may need extended shackles so add $200 to that.

Also don't forget a roll cage, or steel for it. You will need that seats and harnesses. Harnesses are flat dangerous with out one.

And installation expense. Gonna Pay someone to install it all? Or do it yourself? Do it yourself you will need consumables and probably bolts/nuts/washers, all the little nickel and dime stuff that adds up fast. Figure another $200 for that.

Limit straps run closer to $40 Each these days.

Your getting closer. I can tell you from experiance though... take whatever amount you plan on spending and double it. That is what it will actually cost you

 

Thanks. Ya I got that info off the website. I called them and they said all the nuts, u bolts, shackels and all those goodies come with it. He said I should be able to get there kit and bolt it up.

Like zach said above. I will prally get the front first get it dialed in then buy the rear. Roll cage and seat will wait until I get everything dialed in.


"And installation expense. Gonna Pay someone to install it all? Or do it yourself?"

This will all be done by my self, with the help of friends of course.

 

wow.. you puttin triple by-pass shocks in the rear.. NICE..

rngprerunner.. judt a quick quetion..do you still have a/c and heat?? i thought i rear the blower motor would have to be removed??/


JOSH

 

Oops no that was not the same shocks I am doing lol. I want to do the same cage and leafs but not the same shocks...unless I can find them at a good used price

 

if it we me i would just get threaded body kings or somethign to later convert to coil overs... they are alittle bit more expencive then non threaded body shocks but if you plan on going four link it will save you moeny in the long run..

JOSH

 

Yup, not sure what I am going to do. Hell I may never go to 4 link. But then again if I where to ever snap anything in the rear it would be a good excuse

 

you will want 4 link when mine is done :)

 

LOL I know

 

problem with just doing the front and not the rear at the same time, is your rear end wont be able to handle anything your front end will.

 

I will do my front first...get it out of the shop drive it down the roads get it all dialed in then start on the rear. I would deffently make sure to get the rear done before any major wheeling would occur

 

Yup I sure do still have it. All works as stock, nothing AC or Heat related had to be removed.

 

BTW zach here is a link to the truck I was talking about on the phone.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/projectbu...glass_fenders/

I like the looks. It has a few more things done to it then what I am doing

 

um yeah you need to read better... i posted this earlier