I want to remove the rear blocks from my ranger but dont know where to get new U bolts or how to do it. I have a 1998 4x4 ranger

 

Ranger rear axles all use 3" u-bolts, 1/2" diameter, except 2010/11 axles with disc brakes

You should be able to reuse existing u-bolts unless the threads are damaged, then you will needed to cut them off

Support the frame so rear wheels are off the ground about 2" and have another jack for the axle

Loosen the 4 nuts on the 2 u-bolts on one side, loosen enough so block can be removed, about 1/2-1"
Remove block and then retighten nuts

Go to other side

Re-torque all 8 nuts to 70-75ft/lb once you put some weight on the tires

You CAN cut off the ends of the u-bolts if they are too long to get a socket on them for tightening

 

Okay thank you that helped

 

I attempted to remove the blocks from my 2002 Ford Ranger Edge Plus 4x4. I jacked up the truck by its frame. I loosened the U bolt nuts and removed the block on the rear driver side. I lifted the block out of the perch hole on the axle and removed the block from under the leaf spring. I attempted to tighten the nuts on the U bolts but the leaf springs no longer aligned with the axle perch hole. The axle appeared to have moved back about 3/4". I suspect when you remove 3" blocks the angle of the drive shaft is at a lower angle, thus pushing the axle back. If you were to put 6" lift block in, I suspect it increases the drive shaft angle thus pulling the rear axle toward to front of the truck. So removing the blocks, lowering the drive shaft angle, pushes the axle toward the back of the truck. So now the leaf spring pin doesn't fit into the axle perch hole.

Keep in mind I only removed the driver side block and attempted to tighten the U bolt nuts when I noticed the leaf springs were no longer aligning with the axle perch hole. Did I have to remove the rear passenger block (now both passenger and driver side rear blocks removed) as well before tightening the rear driver side U bolt?

Is this normal?

I have searched so many forums. Why am I the only one reporting this phenomena? After researching flip kits, which I have no intentions of doing, I only want to remove the rear blocks so getting in and out of the truck is easier for my wife who is 5'2". This is what DJM says about flip kits and how lowering the rear of the truck "extends" the drive shaft length, thus pushing the axle rearward, leaf springs no longer fit into the axle perch holes......
"No. 1 you must move the rear axle back towards the rear of the truck, away from the transmission, around ¾ of an inch. This is done because your drive shaft actually becomes longer when you “flip” your axle. " ( https://djmsuspension.com/flip-kits/)

 

You should drop/unhook the rear drive shaft before doing this work, because yes it will push axle back
There is a slip joint on the drive shaft that allows rear axle to go up and down when hitting bumps, because drive shaft length changes when that happens

If you were to remove u-bolts with drive shaft connected it would normally move and then be hard to push slip joint back in

The slip joint should have enough travel to remove the blocks with no issues, not sure on the 6" blocks

 

You would recommend disconnecting the driveshaft at the rear differential. Put a jack under the diff/axle, and then proceed with jacking up the truck frame and then removing the U bolts and finally the blocks. Reassemble in reverse order. Any idea on the torque specs for the drive shaft bolts?
Thank You

 

Drive shaft to rear axle bolts should be 70-80ft/lb
I think they are 12mm 12point

Yes, a jack under the differential will make things easier, its not balanced, just FYI, the left side axle is about 3" longer than right side axle

 

Once I complete this, if the ride height is still to high for my wife to comfortably get into and out of the Ranger with ease, would flipping the shackles be to much? Any adverse affects besides less slip yoke travel...or not an issue? I am still on the fence with doing this (block removal, possible shackle flip) because I had to turn the adjustment bolts counter clock wise 8 times for the T-bars to lower the front to a comfortable height for April to get into the truck. Right now, the truck is back to OEM stock height because there was no way I was going to let April drive an extremely low front rake looking truck. Only thing is, I think that is too loose for the T-bars. I still remain on the fence with this because I dont want to create an drivetrain issues since I currently have no issues what so ever with my 2002 Edge Plus 4x4. I don't off road at all so losing ground clearance is not an issue, making my wife comfortable is my main concern. Worse case I get step bars.

 

I would say best case would be step bars

Here is an article about flipping the rear leaf string hangers to get a 2" drop: https://www.therangerstation.com/Mag...005/tech.shtml

Cranking/uncranking torsion bars on the front changes the "spring weight" rating of the bars, if you uncrank them too much it will feel like you are driving a boat, lol, it will sway when cornering