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Old 05-06-2011
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Regular DIY maintenance

I bought a 2007 Supercab 4x4 4.0L SOHC V6 and it appears to have been kept in great condition. I am tracking mileage, service, mpg, etc (I'm a data geek) and would like to do as much regular maintenance myself as possible. My tires are new and the shop does free rotation for life. Otherwise, what can I do myself?

I understand that I could have found this with a lot of Googling, probably, but I'm asking you here because I trust the collective advice of the community. I am a novice at auto maintenance (though I am adamant about regular service), so keep that in mind when making suggestions. Are there any good online guides you might point me to?
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Old 05-06-2011
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Start by going to the auto parts store and picking up a Haynes manual for your truck.
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Old 05-06-2011
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Also, i'm sure you've looked by now. But your owners manual has recommended miles in it to change certain things, If you go by that, and ask us any questions and take a look at the How-To section if you want, you should be able to maintain your truck with no problem.
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Old 05-06-2011
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I regularly change my oil and filter - every 5000 Kms and I use synthetic and a good filter - (not Fram).
I figure I'll put in Synthetic because I save alot by DIY. Watch for sales at Walmart or other places.
Also at 50Kms (every 2 years in the spring) I change:
Front and rear diff fluid
Transmission Fluid and filter,
Transfer Case oil,
Replace Brake fluid and bleed brake lines,
Replace power steering fluid.

Transmission fluid change is not a flush just a change - drop the pan and change the filter then fill it up.
Power steering - just suck out the reservoir and add new.
Front & Rear Diff''s - suck out the old and add new. I don't take off the covers.
Transfer case drain is behind some sort of damper thing. Comes off with 4 bolts.
Change plugs at 150,000 kms
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Old 05-06-2011
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Looks like you have a nice lit of servicing going to me.
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Old 05-06-2011
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It's cheaper to change oil than change parts!
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  #7  
Old 05-06-2011
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Rotate tires every 5000 along with oil change. Any check engine lights should be checked and you can get a OBD3 scanner at kragen or autozone..i bleeve you use obd3 if not obd2. Outside of that, just TLC will do and congrats on your truck
James
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Old 05-12-2011
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I tried bleeding my brakes today. The rear bleeder screws are rusted too badly to get opened and I rounded them off with both the box end and then in desperation the vice grips. I went to Ford to get replacement bleeder screws and I was told that they are obsolete and no longer available from Ford. What is this - when you finally need replacement parts Ford discontinues them??? I wonder what genius cam up with that! So I went to NAPA. They could order bleeder screw for $20 each. Yes $20. New cylinders were $18 so I bought the cylinders. Then I tried to remove the brake line on the existing cylinders. It too was too badly rusted and I couldn't get them out. So I'm stuck now. I didn't want to work my way backwards and replace the brake line too. So will probably take it to "the guy" and get someone else to give it a try to replace. This just shows how regular maintenance to unstick things is a good idea. (I tried soaking with liquid wrench overnight with no luck)
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Old 05-12-2011
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Try BP Blaster, works great on rusted stuff for me and MoPar has a great rust buster, can’t remember its name but a guy gave me a can and it works where BP Blaster doesn’t.
Get a set of Tubing Wrenches, they are like Box Wrenches but have a cut out in them to slide the tubing through and get the best bite on the nut portion and always use a 6-point box wrench when you can, reduces rounded edges on tight NUTS… !

What do your Brake Lines look like ? If all rusted and flakey replacing them could save you trouble later on but it is a time consuming job.
If you attempt to DIY take your time and if it were me I would use Stainless Steel tubing, a PITA to work with and working on your back but will last a lot longer than regular steel and a little more pricey.

Another thing, while you are at it, flush the brake master cylinder and the system with new brake fluid, just keep bleeding when you come to that part and get as much of the old stuff out.
This is not a must do but I like to do it when I replace the brakes.

Also , one of those hand vacuum pumps is a good tool to have; makes it a lot easier to bleed the brakes yourself, don’t let the master run dry when bleeding the brakes.

Just thinking out loud.
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Old 05-12-2011
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wow , i think u got it
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  #11  
Old 05-12-2011
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Yes - I was thinking I need a set of those tubing wrenches. I hate using vise grips because of the damage they do - last resort only once the box end or sockets don't work.
Brake lines look great as does the rest of the underside of the Ranger. It's strange that it's the nuts on the cylinder that are so bad - but that is what I have to deal with.
A brake flush is why I'm doing this brake work. I normally do a complete flush every 2 years - but this Ranger is a 'new' vehicle for my daughter and it looks like it wasn't done on this vehicle before.
I'll go to the local Chrysler dealer for the rust buster. I can't find PB Blaster anywhere here. I've tried most auto parts stores and they don't seem to stock it.
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