Hello.

I have a 94 2.3l Ranger.

Today my heart sank. Drove the thing for about 10 miles or so, parked it to go into the store, came out.....it wouldn't start. Didn't even pretend to start, Cranked just fine. Fooling around and around with this and that, Unplugged the MAF sensor and the truck started, barely running of course. Plugged the sensor back in and it started and ran. One thing about the sensor is the connector. I had to take the air plumbing off a while back and half of the locking tab broke off, old plastic and all that good rot. I'm wondering if the connector just worked itself loose enough to prevent starting? Not sure how that would work though being that it would start with it disconnected.

I had been contemplating cleaning the sensor for a while now. But if the sensor is going bad, why bother? Also, I've been looking for a replacement connector with no success this morning. All replacement connectors I have found have the slot on the bottom of the connector, opposite of the locking tabs. The sensor has a slot tab on the side of the connector. Anyone know about that?

Any help is appreciated.

Greg

 

You don't want to throw parts at it so you will need to get and carry a spray can of Quick Start(ether) with you

The two most common issues of a crank but no start, is failing fuel pump, and for the 1989-1994 2.3l Rangers a failing ICM(spark module)

Since engine is starting now, turn key on an listen for the fuel pump, it will run for just 2 seconds but its not quiet, you can hear it in the cab, a HUMMM from behind the cab
Repeat key off and on, fuel pump will run for 2 seconds each time, do this until you KNOW what it sounds like

Now you will need to duplicate the No Start, so drive it until its warmed up, heat is the key to parts failing usually
When you can get a crank but no start LISTEN for fuel pump. key on and off
If you hear it then open the hood and pull off either power brake booster hose or PCV valve hose and spray ether into the intake manifold, put hose back on and crank engine
If it doesn't fire then you have no spark so ICM issue
If it does fire then you have spark but no fuel from injectors
This is called 50/50 test, used since the 1890's on gasoline engines

A bad or failing MAF sensor can't cause a no start, but it would be good to fix the connector, wrecking yard may be best bet, yes there were different types of MAF connectors, the 2.3l was different than the V6 connectors

Only two sensors can cause a no start
The TPS sensor will cause a no start if its shorted out or its wires are, it shuts OFF injectors when cranking, but long shot since after it does start there are no stumbling issues, and if MAF sensor was an issue there would also be stumbling, just FYI

Crank sensor not working will cause a no start, its the timing signal for spark and fuel injectors, so no timing then no start, but also a long shot since these either work or they don't, it would be unlikely for this to be a crank sensor issue

In a 1994 it can also be the computer, this was the last year of the EEC-IV computer
This computer has 3 blue capacitors that will fail after 20+ years, they are easy to replace, under $5 in parts cost
Any of these failing will cause intermittent and odd issues, there is no firm cause and effect, but crank and no start is for sure one of the issues that comes up

It is FREE to pull out the computer and have a look inside, I would plan on replacing these caps just on speculation while its out, because they WILL fail, 100% sure on that
I had to do my 1994 4.0l Caps last year
You need a soldering iron and "solder sucker" to remove and replace, replace with black Caps they last longer

 

Well, I drive for 10 miles in mid 80's weather, get to one store, in there a little bit, come out the pickup starts. Drive a couple of blocks to another store, in there just a few minutes, pickup does not start. The MAF sensor not being the issue seemed likely, but unplugged it again just for grins. Like you said, not the problem. I had an extra fuel pump relay, swapped it, no dice.

So I tried the starter spray and it did try to start, so a fuel issue. I've had this pickup for several months. The previous owner replaced the fuel pump. I estimate 10-15K on it. But fuel pumps do go out. When the thing would run, I tried to listen for the pump just turning the key to on. I cannot hear it at all! Guess I need to get out closer to it and have someone else turn it on. But a question, if the fuel pump is failing, wouldn't there be issues manifest when it does run? Once the thing is running, there isn't any hint that I'm aware of that anything is wrong. It runs and idles just fine.

Hope it's the controller and not the pump. So much easier to get to. How much does wishing really hard affect the situation? :) Getting capacitors will be a challenge. Not like I can go to the local Radio Shack! Amazon I guess?

Thanks for the help!

 

A fuel pump is an electric motor
Electric motors tend to stay running once they are started, they are quite reliable once spinning
What they do not like to do is to START running, lol, there is a spike in AMPs to get them to turn, and if an electric motor has an issue, it will be it won't start up, not it quit running while it still had power
Just FYI, all electric motors are this way, i.e. a power window motor usually won't stop while you are pressing the button, when it fails it won't start after you press the button, there are no "warning signs" just one day an electric motor won't work


The 3 things that make a gasoline engine work
Compression
Spark
Fuel

Yes, if it started/fired with 50/50 test then spark was working and so was compression
So yes, its a fuel issue
There is a fuel pressure test port on drivers side of engine, looks like a tire's air valve because that is what it is, a schrader valve, may still have a screw on cap like a tire air valve
And works the same way, if you press the pin in fuel should squirt out with 30psi pressure
If not, then fuel pump is OFF

 

Well, it's been a week and the problem has not resurfaced. I did one thing though. Being that it is possible that the issue is in the computer, I took it out to get the capacitor numbers on hand to order them if need to. After reinstalling the computer, there has been no issues. Mind you, I did nothing but take the computer out, get the capacitor numbers, and put it back in. So, that got me to thinking about ISA cards on those old computers. Every once in a while the computer would go wonky. I'd have to open the thing up, take out the ISA cards, clean the contacts, put everything back together and then it would be ok. So, I'm wondering if a connection or two on the computer plug got oxidized a bit, just enough to cause a connection issue, and unplugging and plugging it back in cleaned the connections enough. Don't know, guess time will tell. If not, it's got me irritated because then I'm wondering when it will leave me stranded without knowing why. I'm still driving it 40+ miles every day trying to see if it acts up again.

Thanks again for the help.

 

Actually that does make sense

Sensors rarely fail, except O2s which do wear out

90% of sensor replacement wasn't needed, problem was the connector for the sensor, simply unplugging the sensor and plugging it back in would have fixed the problem, it cleans off the connectors, this is why a "new" sensor fixed the problem, because connector was unplugged and plugged back in so terminals were cleaned

Same will occur on the 60-pin computer connector, contacts can buildup electrical corrosion, which is hard to see, but changes resistance in the circuit and since sensors operate at 5v or less a little change causes big difference in what the computer "sees" from that sensor

So simply unplugging the connector and plugging it back in may have given computer better sensor readings

 

I hope so.
Thanks RonD

 

The latest:

Truck seemed to run fine for over a week. Then, same old thing. Drive it for a bit, turn it off, get back in. No start. Was prepared with something to open the valve on the fuel rail. First time, fuel squirted out. Later times the next day, I would get it to not start again and fuel would just flow out, not squirt like it does when running. I can hear clicks going on when turning the key to On, but even when it runs, I cannot hear the pump. Must be me ears!

Ordered a Delphi pump, looking to put it in this weekend. Called the Ford dealer and the pump for that truck is discontinued. And ordered a new fuel filter. I've only had this truck for a several months. Have no idea how old the fuel filter is. I've heard back pressure from a clogged filter can ruin a pump. Makes sense. Just a good thing anyway.