I have a 1996 2.3 2 wheel drive ranger. Temp gauge goes up to the H but the truck isn't over heating, i have replace the temp sensor heater core and thermostat. Coolent system has be burped and flushed. Previous owner replaced the cluster with one from a ford explorer and said that is wheb the problem started. Any ideas?

 

Welcome to the forum

There are TWO temp detectors on a fuel injected engine

1. ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor, always 2 wires, uses 5volts, only used by the computer

2. Temp SENDER, usually 1 wire, uses 12volts, only for dash board gauge

Drawing here: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...96a27c731c.gif

So drivers side of engine at the back


If temp gauge is pegged at HOT that means the gauge is GROUNDED, or the wire to the SENDER is grounded, or the SENDER is bad

1996 Ranger uses a Red/White stripe wire from SENDER to gauge.

Explorer clusters use the same color wire and the same pin on the cluster, so that shouldn't be the problem, unless the temp gauge in the explorer cluster is bad

If you changed the SENDER(not sensor) then I would use a Volt meter on the 1 wire, unplug it from SENDER and turn on the key, that wire should show 12volts, if not the problem is "most likely" in the cluster
Could be the red/white wire is shorted to ground somewhere but you would test for that after cluster is out, and then you could run a new wire if it was

 

I have a new sender i havent installed yet. I havent been able to find a picture or the exact location of the sender.

 

The temp gauge is not pegged it sits around 3/4 between C and H but never compleatly reaches H i have a 190° thermostat in it as well.

 

So needle does move?

With key on and as engine warms up needle goes up?

That would read like wrong SENDER was used or its bad

Or does needle change with RPMs, i.e. an electrical issue

 

yes the needle moves it will start at cold when the key is on. Starting the vehicle it will rise around a centimeter above operating temp then when driving it will raise a little more and just hang out around or a little above the 3/4 mark

 

I would pull the wire off the SENDER and then ground that wire, turn on key, needle should go to HOT, all the way up
Then leave key on and remove the Ground from the sender wire, needle should drop to COLD, all the way down

If it does this then gauge and wire are OK, sender is bad

 

Ill give it a shot and up date asap

 

 

 

Looking at it like this makes me think the guage just needs to be adjusted

 

Yes, I agree, should be pointed at C with key on, if its been sitting for more than 6 hours

Maybe previous owner did some cluster work and installed needle before turning on the key to see where it should be pointed

It should run just below 1/2 way after full warm up, which is 180-190degF, 210degF is 1/2 way

 

So i should be able to pull the cluster and adjust the gauge? Is there any certain process to that?

 

First, turn on the key and take a picture of the current position of the gauge needles, Fuel and Volts for sure

Then pull out the cluster, pull off the clear cover, clean it with warm water

You will need to pull off the Temp needle, a plastic fork works OK for that and shouldn't scratch surfaces

THEN plug the cluster back in, being careful not to hit the needles on the other gauges, and then turn on the key

With power back on the volt and fuel needles should be back in position, this confirms cluster is powered up, now put Temp needle back on so its pointed at the C

Turn off key, unplug cluster and put cover back on

This post may be helpful: https://www.ranger-forums.com/how-di...change-147777/


You may want to replace the 6 light bulbs in the cluster while its out, they are not expensive and do burn out

 

Weather permitting ill do that tomorrow. I appreciate your help alot. Even being a full time mechanic this was baffling me.