Trans Fluid In-line Filter
#1
12-08-2018
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
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Trans Fluid In-line Filter
2011 4Dr Sport 4.0L, auto - 80,000 miles. About to do pan drop and change filter and refill. AllData shows the installation of a filter in the cooling line near the cooler. Ford parts guy at dealer says not required but used when any work is done to prevent any contaminant that may enter from clogging cooler.
I pull an 18’ TT a few times a year at 2600 lbs. Should I install the in-line?
Pros / Cons?
I pull an 18’ TT a few times a year at 2600 lbs. Should I install the in-line?
Pros / Cons?
#2
12-08-2018
Welcome to the forum
I assume there is already a 2nd trans cooler installed, that should ALWAYS be the FIRST thing you add if there isn't one.
An inline filter and temp sensor are fine to add
Temp sensor would be my second choice, inline filter third choice
ATF fluid temp is the biggest killer of automatics, 180-200degF is OK, as it goes above 200degF it is taking miles off transmission life
This is why second trans cooler is important, under a load engine coolant heats up as well as trans fluid, so radiator heats up from coolant heat so where can ATF fluid heat go with a in radiator cooler.............right back to the transmission, lol
Remember you have to change inline filter as well as pan filter at the same time, it is not a "lifetime filter", lol
On your automatic the Lower cooler hose on the drivers side of transmission is the OUT to cooler(s), Upper hose is the RETURN from cooler(s)
You need to know the direction of flow to add an inline filter
You would locate the temp sensor as close as practical to the transmission on the OUT to Cooler(s) hose, and filter could go at the same place
Google: Derale 13091 Transmission Filter Kit
Not recommending this one, although I have used Derale products with no complaints, this one is a combo unit, filter, temp sensor and temp gauge
I assume there is already a 2nd trans cooler installed, that should ALWAYS be the FIRST thing you add if there isn't one.
An inline filter and temp sensor are fine to add
Temp sensor would be my second choice, inline filter third choice
ATF fluid temp is the biggest killer of automatics, 180-200degF is OK, as it goes above 200degF it is taking miles off transmission life
This is why second trans cooler is important, under a load engine coolant heats up as well as trans fluid, so radiator heats up from coolant heat so where can ATF fluid heat go with a in radiator cooler.............right back to the transmission, lol
Remember you have to change inline filter as well as pan filter at the same time, it is not a "lifetime filter", lol
On your automatic the Lower cooler hose on the drivers side of transmission is the OUT to cooler(s), Upper hose is the RETURN from cooler(s)
You need to know the direction of flow to add an inline filter
You would locate the temp sensor as close as practical to the transmission on the OUT to Cooler(s) hose, and filter could go at the same place
Google: Derale 13091 Transmission Filter Kit
Not recommending this one, although I have used Derale products with no complaints, this one is a combo unit, filter, temp sensor and temp gauge
Last edited by RonD; 12-08-2018 at 09:45 AM.
#3
12-08-2018
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Thanks for quick reply!!!
I worried no one would answer. You’re the best! It has a trans cooler now (I believe standard with the Tow Package?)
DOES NOT have an in-line now. AllData recommends adding one when changing filter. Dealer parts man said if not doing a flush, don’t need to add the in-line. I like the sound of the extra protection and don’t mind doing it. Wanted feebback from those of you who are much more knowledgeable than I.
Lots of really smart folks on here!
Any videos of adding a 2nd cooler? I wouldn’t know where to begin even putting it.
DOES NOT have an in-line now. AllData recommends adding one when changing filter. Dealer parts man said if not doing a flush, don’t need to add the in-line. I like the sound of the extra protection and don’t mind doing it. Wanted feebback from those of you who are much more knowledgeable than I.
Lots of really smart folks on here!
Any videos of adding a 2nd cooler? I wouldn’t know where to begin even putting it.
#4
12-08-2018
If you have a Factory 2nd trans cooler it will be in front of radiator down low, look up under the front bumper
And thats the best place to install one if it doesn't have one
If your vehicle has AC and a 2nd trans cooler then from back to front you will see Radiator(coolant), Condenser(AC), 2nd trans cooler
Under the vehicle you may also see a small single or double tube with fins, thats the Power Steering fluid cooler, just FYI, much smaller than a trans cooler
And thats the best place to install one if it doesn't have one
If your vehicle has AC and a 2nd trans cooler then from back to front you will see Radiator(coolant), Condenser(AC), 2nd trans cooler
Under the vehicle you may also see a small single or double tube with fins, thats the Power Steering fluid cooler, just FYI, much smaller than a trans cooler
#5
12-09-2018
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Thanks again
If you have a Factory 2nd trans cooler it will be in front of radiator down low, look up under the front bumper
And thats the best place to install one if it doesn't have one
If your vehicle has AC and a 2nd trans cooler then from back to front you will see Radiator(coolant), Condenser(AC), 2nd trans cooler
Under the vehicle you may also see a small single or double tube with fins, thats the Power Steering fluid cooler, just FYI, much smaller than a trans cooler
And thats the best place to install one if it doesn't have one
If your vehicle has AC and a 2nd trans cooler then from back to front you will see Radiator(coolant), Condenser(AC), 2nd trans cooler
Under the vehicle you may also see a small single or double tube with fins, thats the Power Steering fluid cooler, just FYI, much smaller than a trans cooler
#6
12-09-2018
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Location: Baton Rouge, LA
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Completed fluid and filter change, aborted in-line filter install
If you have a Factory 2nd trans cooler it will be in front of radiator down low, look up under the front bumper
And thats the best place to install one if it doesn't have one
If your vehicle has AC and a 2nd trans cooler then from back to front you will see Radiator(coolant), Condenser(AC), 2nd trans cooler
Under the vehicle you may also see a small single or double tube with fins, thats the Power Steering fluid cooler, just FYI, much smaller than a trans cooler
And thats the best place to install one if it doesn't have one
If your vehicle has AC and a 2nd trans cooler then from back to front you will see Radiator(coolant), Condenser(AC), 2nd trans cooler
Under the vehicle you may also see a small single or double tube with fins, thats the Power Steering fluid cooler, just FYI, much smaller than a trans cooler
Dropped pan and was pleased to find a pan with virtually no sediment with truck having sat for 24 hours prior to dropping pan. Magnet was partially covered with a thin layer of particles, very fine. No “shavings”. Pan looked new. Gasket looked flawless, re-used. Used Motorcraft filter and fluid. Since the truck was sold twice as a Ford Certified used vehicle, I’m inclined to believe the dealer did a flush on this truck at 40k. I just can’t beleive the fluid and pan could be that clean at 80k.
The in-line filter had a slight abrasion and upon inspection the spring inside the inlet hole looked sideways, out of position. I dared not install as it appeared maybe the part had been dropped. As clean as the tranny is, I just don’t think it’s necesaary to install the secondary filter, unless you recommend it. I reallly appreciate your knowledge.
Hope you had a great weekend.
#7
12-10-2018
#8
12-10-2018
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thanks,
Bryan
’11 Supercab Sport 4.0L 2WD
#9
12-10-2018
Yes, you probably have HOAT coolant, usually yellow or gold in color, only use HOAT(hybrid organic acid technology) coolant if thats what it has now
There are 3 types of coolant, color doesn't matter since there are no standard requirements, just guidelines, so read the label
Silicate based, earliest coolant ever used, often green in color, good for 2 years
OAT(organic acid technology), red/pink color, good for 5 years, can't be mixed with silicates and visa versa, or it will form a sludge in cooling system
HOAT(hybrid organic acid technology), yellow/gold, good for 5+years, 8 would be my max., can be mixed with either of the above but would shorten its life to 5 years only
HOAT is often called "lifetime" coolant, but that means life of the new vehicle warranty as it applies to cooling system, not possible life of the vehicle, lol
I don't think there is a big difference in the brands, users choice on that
Always Reverse heater hoses at the firewall when changing coolant, I do it every 2 years regardless, this back flushes the heater core while driving in case there are any larger particles that may have been lodge inside(sends them back out the way they came in), and in general makes core last longer.
Coolant has corrosion protection, but it only works when it can circulate, blocked tube means no circulation so it starts to corrode there, and then leak
Leave one heater hose off while refilling, this lets the air out of the engine side of thermostat
You can replace thermostat, but on the 4.0l SOHC it is at the top of the engine so you don't have to do a full drain of the system to replace it at a later time, up to you.
The 4.0l SOHC thermostat housing was a known issue in earlier years, but later years seem to hold up, good how to here if you want to see it: https://howtoreplacefordthermostathousing.com/
Never was much for "flushing" cooling systems, just figured I'd break lose small bits and they would get lodged in rad or heater core, lol, not drain out
But users choice on that one
There are 3 types of coolant, color doesn't matter since there are no standard requirements, just guidelines, so read the label
Silicate based, earliest coolant ever used, often green in color, good for 2 years
OAT(organic acid technology), red/pink color, good for 5 years, can't be mixed with silicates and visa versa, or it will form a sludge in cooling system
HOAT(hybrid organic acid technology), yellow/gold, good for 5+years, 8 would be my max., can be mixed with either of the above but would shorten its life to 5 years only
HOAT is often called "lifetime" coolant, but that means life of the new vehicle warranty as it applies to cooling system, not possible life of the vehicle, lol
I don't think there is a big difference in the brands, users choice on that
Always Reverse heater hoses at the firewall when changing coolant, I do it every 2 years regardless, this back flushes the heater core while driving in case there are any larger particles that may have been lodge inside(sends them back out the way they came in), and in general makes core last longer.
Coolant has corrosion protection, but it only works when it can circulate, blocked tube means no circulation so it starts to corrode there, and then leak
Leave one heater hose off while refilling, this lets the air out of the engine side of thermostat
You can replace thermostat, but on the 4.0l SOHC it is at the top of the engine so you don't have to do a full drain of the system to replace it at a later time, up to you.
The 4.0l SOHC thermostat housing was a known issue in earlier years, but later years seem to hold up, good how to here if you want to see it: https://howtoreplacefordthermostathousing.com/
Never was much for "flushing" cooling systems, just figured I'd break lose small bits and they would get lodged in rad or heater core, lol, not drain out
But users choice on that one
Last edited by RonD; 12-10-2018 at 12:01 PM.
#10
12-13-2018
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Draincock doesn’t drain
Yes, you probably have HOAT coolant, usually yellow or gold in color, only use HOAT(hybrid organic acid technology) coolant if thats what it has now
There are 3 types of coolant, color doesn't matter since there are no standard requirements, just guidelines, so read the label
Silicate based, earliest coolant ever used, often green in color, good for 2 years
OAT(organic acid technology), red/pink color, good for 5 years, can't be mixed with silicates and visa versa, or it will form a sludge in cooling system
HOAT(hybrid organic acid technology), yellow/gold, good for 5+years, 8 would be my max., can be mixed with either of the above but would shorten its life to 5 years only
HOAT is often called "lifetime" coolant, but that means life of the new vehicle warranty as it applies to cooling system, not possible life of the vehicle, lol
I don't think there is a big difference in the brands, users choice on that
Always Reverse heater hoses at the firewall when changing coolant, I do it every 2 years regardless, this back flushes the heater core while driving in case there are any larger particles that may have been lodge inside(sends them back out the way they came in), and in general makes core last longer.
Coolant has corrosion protection, but it only works when it can circulate, blocked tube means no circulation so it starts to corrode there, and then leak
Leave one heater hose off while refilling, this lets the air out of the engine side of thermostat
You can replace thermostat, but on the 4.0l SOHC it is at the top of the engine so you don't have to do a full drain of the system to replace it at a later time, up to you.
The 4.0l SOHC thermostat housing was a known issue in earlier years, but later years seem to hold up, good how to here if you want to see it: https://howtoreplacefordthermostathousing.com/
Never was much for "flushing" cooling systems, just figured I'd break lose small bits and they would get lodged in rad or heater core, lol, not drain out
But users choice on that one
There are 3 types of coolant, color doesn't matter since there are no standard requirements, just guidelines, so read the label
Silicate based, earliest coolant ever used, often green in color, good for 2 years
OAT(organic acid technology), red/pink color, good for 5 years, can't be mixed with silicates and visa versa, or it will form a sludge in cooling system
HOAT(hybrid organic acid technology), yellow/gold, good for 5+years, 8 would be my max., can be mixed with either of the above but would shorten its life to 5 years only
HOAT is often called "lifetime" coolant, but that means life of the new vehicle warranty as it applies to cooling system, not possible life of the vehicle, lol
I don't think there is a big difference in the brands, users choice on that
Always Reverse heater hoses at the firewall when changing coolant, I do it every 2 years regardless, this back flushes the heater core while driving in case there are any larger particles that may have been lodge inside(sends them back out the way they came in), and in general makes core last longer.
Coolant has corrosion protection, but it only works when it can circulate, blocked tube means no circulation so it starts to corrode there, and then leak
Leave one heater hose off while refilling, this lets the air out of the engine side of thermostat
You can replace thermostat, but on the 4.0l SOHC it is at the top of the engine so you don't have to do a full drain of the system to replace it at a later time, up to you.
The 4.0l SOHC thermostat housing was a known issue in earlier years, but later years seem to hold up, good how to here if you want to see it: https://howtoreplacefordthermostathousing.com/
Never was much for "flushing" cooling systems, just figured I'd break lose small bits and they would get lodged in rad or heater core, lol, not drain out
But users choice on that one
#11
12-14-2018
They often get stuck like that, you can apply more force but it may break, shouldn't but may, it's plastic threads on the plug and metal threads on rad, so if over tightened plug threads get damaged
If it comes out there will be 2 prongs holding it in the hole, you can squeeze them together to pull the whole plug out
There is often hardened debris at the plug location so it doesn't drain very well, with plug removed you can put in a wire or ?? to break up debris to get rid of blockage and drain rad
I always use lower rad hose as drain
If it comes out there will be 2 prongs holding it in the hole, you can squeeze them together to pull the whole plug out
There is often hardened debris at the plug location so it doesn't drain very well, with plug removed you can put in a wire or ?? to break up debris to get rid of blockage and drain rad
I always use lower rad hose as drain
#12
12-15-2018
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Correct again!
They often get stuck like that, you can apply more force but it may break, shouldn't but may, it's plastic threads on the plug and metal threads on rad, so if over tightened plug threads get damaged
If it comes out there will be 2 prongs holding it in the hole, you can squeeze them together to pull the whole plug out
There is often hardened debris at the plug location so it doesn't drain very well, with plug removed you can put in a wire or ?? to break up debris to get rid of blockage and drain rad
I always use lower rad hose as drain
If it comes out there will be 2 prongs holding it in the hole, you can squeeze them together to pull the whole plug out
There is often hardened debris at the plug location so it doesn't drain very well, with plug removed you can put in a wire or ?? to break up debris to get rid of blockage and drain rad
I always use lower rad hose as drain
Not wanting to take that risk, I drained it by removing the lower radiator hose at the radiator only. This seemed much more effective as 1) the bottom of the hole where the lower hose connects seemed lower than the plastic housing where the draincock is, thus gravity would drain more at the hose location, 2) the outflow from the engine via the hose created a bit of a vacuum much like a siphon. I believe this evacuated more coolant than I would have gotten from the draincock obviously laden with sediment.
Comparing the recovered coolant to new, for 80k miles on it, i’d say it was pretty clean. However, based on comments from others and knowing what a dirty cooling system does to the vehicle, those suggesting an annual or every 2 year drain and fill are wise. The “5 year coolant” is not a realistic expectation. I’ll keep an eye on it, when it begins to show that it’s getting cloudy, I’ll change it out again. Probably won’t go more than 2 years or 36,000 without a change.
Next up:
Brake fluid replacement and bleeding. Think I’ll try that bleeder kit they sell at Harbor Freight. One thing I LOVE about my 2011 that I’m sure all other year models envy - 4 wheel disc brakes! No more flash rust lock ups when parking after driving through water and much better stopping when pulling my trailer.
Thanks agian Ron, you’re a great help and model member on here.
Bryan
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