The "What did you do to your Ranger today" thread
#5002
Fitted new heater hose T pieces.
Filled with new coolant.
Flushed/replaced power steering fluid.
Replaced power steering filter & re-routed hoses.
Picked up pulley puller for replacing the power steering pump as the dang thing is leaking :(
Lubricated parking brake assembly in the cab as the release doesn't retract.
Filled with new coolant.
Flushed/replaced power steering fluid.
Replaced power steering filter & re-routed hoses.
Picked up pulley puller for replacing the power steering pump as the dang thing is leaking :(
Lubricated parking brake assembly in the cab as the release doesn't retract.
#5003
Seriously though looks good, more pics if possible please :-)
-Nigel
#5005
Added a universal homelink to the dash.
If I were to do it again I would put the homelink somewhere else behind the dash and then run separate buttons on the actual dash. It would have been less time consuming modifying the dash/homelink housing. It looks good now but too a couple hours to make it look like it was always there. No no more garage door opener on sunvisor. On switched power so that it only works when the key is in the truck.
-Nigel
If I were to do it again I would put the homelink somewhere else behind the dash and then run separate buttons on the actual dash. It would have been less time consuming modifying the dash/homelink housing. It looks good now but too a couple hours to make it look like it was always there. No no more garage door opener on sunvisor. On switched power so that it only works when the key is in the truck.
-Nigel
#5006
Added a universal homelink to the dash.
If I were to do it again I would put the homelink somewhere else behind the dash and then run separate buttons on the actual dash. It would have been less time consuming modifying the dash/homelink housing. It looks good now but too a couple hours to make it look like it was always there. No no more garage door opener on sunvisor. On switched power so that it only works when the key is in the truck.
-Nigel
If I were to do it again I would put the homelink somewhere else behind the dash and then run separate buttons on the actual dash. It would have been less time consuming modifying the dash/homelink housing. It looks good now but too a couple hours to make it look like it was always there. No no more garage door opener on sunvisor. On switched power so that it only works when the key is in the truck.
-Nigel
#5007
you can also modify the chrome MFT switch from a town car to replace the all black one in the ranger. nice to have the signal stalk match.
#5008
Pulled the other 5 plugs after checking the easiest and finding it to be in perfectly fine condition (if gapped to wide .46thou) using an AP104 (First two pics)
Only to find the remaining plugs are XP104, gapped to about .90 to .100 thousandths and massively worn hollows in the electrodes.
Bent them in to be close until i can work out the right plugs to replace them with.
Only to find the remaining plugs are XP104, gapped to about .90 to .100 thousandths and massively worn hollows in the electrodes.
Bent them in to be close until i can work out the right plugs to replace them with.
#5009
If you don't mind just a couple questions. I noticed that the Lincoln shifter angles differently than the ranger's. Does it feel any different when shifting because of the different angle? Doesn't look like a problem to me but just wondering.
Did you do the turn signal stalk as well? That too is different in terms of angle. The one I have now angles downwards so my hand is always at the lower position of the wheel and it's at my finger tips. Perfect location. With newer rangers they angled it up and I don't like that. With the Lincoln it seems like it's up but not nearly as high as the new rangers. Any issues with that as far as comfort?
I really like how both look but one thing that makes me wonder if I should do it is that there is no chrome in the inside of the truck at all. Everything is black/cf wrapped...etc. I'm wondering if this is going to stick out and look out of place.
-Nigel
#5010
Bent the hood brackets back straight to put the hood in the middle where it belongs. The fellow we bought it from had hit a barrier at low speed and bent the driver side fender and shifted the hood to the right. The fender will get looked at this weekend.
Also knocked a big dent out of the rear driver quarter panel. Just tapped it with a hammer from the inside and it popped right out.
In the future (probably spring) the whole truck will get repainted.
Also knocked a big dent out of the rear driver quarter panel. Just tapped it with a hammer from the inside and it popped right out.
In the future (probably spring) the whole truck will get repainted.
#5011
SJB/BCM issue
I made a post on the Technical/Electrical forum, but it hasn't been approved as yet...'09 4.0L 4x4, power windows, mirrors and door locks stopped working all at once...passenger side operates door locks...very curious...water intrusion in Smart Junction Box/Body Control Module; corrosion around perimeter of circuit board...swapped salvage box to try to improve situation...donor box from '07 unit w/o power windows/locks....after realization of donor box not going to work; replaced original module, but while plugging in the multiplug levered blocks, the module started ticking like a hazard relay...when all the plugs were installed, the ticking stopped.....but when the truck started to drive away, NOW no radio AND no headlights.....any thoughts on this issue would be greatly appreciated...thanks in advance...cheers...!!!
#5012
#5013
Carbon fiber wrapped radio bezel brothers unit...lol Mine below.
Also officially mounted my rear window louver. I'm happy with the fitment compared to how it should have been from the manufacture. They had these hinge brackets up top which then created a horrible gap in the upper top portion. I tapped out the hinge pins, then dremeled off the hinges, then added a couple extra mounting on the sides/bottom so that it sits flush against the window. Looks much better. Visibility out the back is definitely affected but not drastic. It's darker in the cabin too which is nice.
-Nigel
Also officially mounted my rear window louver. I'm happy with the fitment compared to how it should have been from the manufacture. They had these hinge brackets up top which then created a horrible gap in the upper top portion. I tapped out the hinge pins, then dremeled off the hinges, then added a couple extra mounting on the sides/bottom so that it sits flush against the window. Looks much better. Visibility out the back is definitely affected but not drastic. It's darker in the cabin too which is nice.
-Nigel
#5015
Nigel,
Your bezel looks great! Hopefully mine will look like that when I re-wrap it this winter. Louver looks good also!
Your bezel looks great! Hopefully mine will look like that when I re-wrap it this winter. Louver looks good also!
Carbon fiber wrapped radio bezel brothers unit...lol Mine below.
Also officially mounted my rear window louver. I'm happy with the fitment compared to how it should have been from the manufacture. They had these hinge brackets up top which then created a horrible gap in the upper top portion. I tapped out the hinge pins, then dremeled off the hinges, then added a couple extra mounting on the sides/bottom so that it sits flush against the window. Looks much better. Visibility out the back is definitely affected but not drastic. It's darker in the cabin too which is nice.
-Nigel
Also officially mounted my rear window louver. I'm happy with the fitment compared to how it should have been from the manufacture. They had these hinge brackets up top which then created a horrible gap in the upper top portion. I tapped out the hinge pins, then dremeled off the hinges, then added a couple extra mounting on the sides/bottom so that it sits flush against the window. Looks much better. Visibility out the back is definitely affected but not drastic. It's darker in the cabin too which is nice.
-Nigel
#5016
I have only worked on / have experience with 1999, 2001 and 2003 Rangers... none of which have the SJB. However, you mentioned corrosion on the circuit board. Did you try to clean that off with contact cleaner and a tooth brush or anything similar? The corrosion could be causing a short or back feed. I know that isn't particularly helpful though...
I made a post on the Technical/Electrical forum, but it hasn't been approved as yet...'09 4.0L 4x4, power windows, mirrors and door locks stopped working all at once...passenger side operates door locks...very curious...water intrusion in Smart Junction Box/Body Control Module; corrosion around perimeter of circuit board...swapped salvage box to try to improve situation...donor box from '07 unit w/o power windows/locks....after realization of donor box not going to work; replaced original module, but while plugging in the multiplug levered blocks, the module started ticking like a hazard relay...when all the plugs were installed, the ticking stopped.....but when the truck started to drive away, NOW no radio AND no headlights.....any thoughts on this issue would be greatly appreciated...thanks in advance...cheers...!!!
#5017
How to check pressure & remove the spare tyre on a Ranger.....
1) Get compressor out and crawl under the back of the truck, discover the valve is up against the truck.
2) Look at the attachment point and realise it makes no sense and you can't remove the spare tyre.
3) Find placard on how to change wheels, discover the location of the toolkit needed to lower spare wheel.
4) Discover there is a nice empty space where the toolkit should be, along with what may as well be an "I.O.U" in it's place.
5) Go online to ask where the best place to buy a toolkit is :(
1) Get compressor out and crawl under the back of the truck, discover the valve is up against the truck.
2) Look at the attachment point and realise it makes no sense and you can't remove the spare tyre.
3) Find placard on how to change wheels, discover the location of the toolkit needed to lower spare wheel.
4) Discover there is a nice empty space where the toolkit should be, along with what may as well be an "I.O.U" in it's place.
5) Go online to ask where the best place to buy a toolkit is :(
#5018
I hear ya brother! Mine is empty also (no I.O.U. though). Found a jack at the local U-Pull, but couldn't find the crank handle. I have chrome lug nuts, so I use a 1/2" breaker bar and a new 6-point socket for that.
How to check pressure & remove the spare tyre on a Ranger.....
1) Get compressor out and crawl under the back of the truck, discover the valve is up against the truck.
2) Look at the attachment point and realise it makes no sense and you can't remove the spare tyre.
3) Find placard on how to change wheels, discover the location of the toolkit needed to lower spare wheel.
4) Discover there is a nice empty space where the toolkit should be, along with what may as well be an "I.O.U" in it's place.
5) Go online to ask where the best place to buy a toolkit is :(
1) Get compressor out and crawl under the back of the truck, discover the valve is up against the truck.
2) Look at the attachment point and realise it makes no sense and you can't remove the spare tyre.
3) Find placard on how to change wheels, discover the location of the toolkit needed to lower spare wheel.
4) Discover there is a nice empty space where the toolkit should be, along with what may as well be an "I.O.U" in it's place.
5) Go online to ask where the best place to buy a toolkit is :(
#5019
Found this for the wrench: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HFF4S...=3AWDRT4LYKSS7
And this for a handle: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HFF4Y...=3AWDRT4LYKSS7
That's for a single extension though.
Found this for the wrench/extension set, but no suitable bottle jack.
https://smile.amazon.com/98-11-Range...KV6PYDVWJ53W6V
And this for a handle: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HFF4Y...=3AWDRT4LYKSS7
That's for a single extension though.
Found this for the wrench/extension set, but no suitable bottle jack.
https://smile.amazon.com/98-11-Range...KV6PYDVWJ53W6V
#5020
Awesome! I never thought about finding it on Amazon. I think I am going to get the kit, so I have everything I need. Thanks for the links!
Found this for the wrench: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HFF4S...=3AWDRT4LYKSS7
And this for a handle: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HFF4Y...=3AWDRT4LYKSS7
That's for a single extension though.
Found this for the wrench/extension set, but no suitable bottle jack.
https://smile.amazon.com/98-11-Range...KV6PYDVWJ53W6V
And this for a handle: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HFF4Y...=3AWDRT4LYKSS7
That's for a single extension though.
Found this for the wrench/extension set, but no suitable bottle jack.
https://smile.amazon.com/98-11-Range...KV6PYDVWJ53W6V
#5022
Your links got me to thinking, so I checked out eBay.
98-09 FORD RANGER EXTENDED CAR OR REGULAR SPARE TIRE JACK WITH TOOLS OEM | eBay
This may be what you need. :)
98-09 FORD RANGER EXTENDED CAR OR REGULAR SPARE TIRE JACK WITH TOOLS OEM | eBay
This may be what you need. :)
#5023
#5024
I'm seeing a lot of jacks listed up to '01 - was there a change to it in '02?
This F150 jack from '01 looks the same as other Ranger jacks, any problems using it?
2001 Ford F-150 F150 XLT Jack | eBay
This F150 jack from '01 looks the same as other Ranger jacks, any problems using it?
2001 Ford F-150 F150 XLT Jack | eBay