New cover for the bed

 

Upgraded the front-end lighting this week.

The mission I set for myself is to source a small enough LED flood strip that would fit into the grill. Not in front of it or behind it. In it. I wanted to put a bit more punch into the lighting when I'm off-road, but I didn't want a huge double-deck bar over the cab or something attached to the bumper that would sprout legs and walk away some night. I imagined the strip in the upper or lower opening of the grill. And I was looking for strictly flood LEDs, not a combo of spot and flood.

After hours of innernets searching, I found exactly what I was looking for:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ens/3771/8068/

Note: This not an endorsement, nor an ad for SBL. They just happened to have a product that fit my needs about as perfect as I could dream.

So last week I dropped the dime on it, and it showed up on my porch Thursday morning. Being a nice day and not having to work, I set out to, at least, get it mounted in the grill. But before doing anything, I set it in place to see if it would work.




Yep, as expected, it will work with a bit of modifications. First off, it won't install using the supplied mounting brackets... that would make it too tall. But since the instructions were available online, I had already pre-planned on using a different mounting system. One utilizing bolting the ends right into the grill. So out came the 5.5mm socket and within a few minutes, I had the grill on the workbench. After carefully measuring, I drilled two holes through the inside lips of the grill, one on each end of the lower slot.




Since the overall length of the strip was about ¾" shy of a perfect fit, I needed a spacer to fill in the gap. Using my micrometer, I measuring off 3/8" of a 1/2" barbed irrigation line coupler and cut two pieces, one off each end of the coupler.



I cut them at a slight angle in an attempt to match the angle of the grill.

A trip to the hardware store netted me a couple of stainless steel mounting bolts with the same thread of the supplied bolts, which were going to be too short. After carefully lining everything up, I started the bolt in.




It was a huge hassle getting it all lined up on the other end since there's simply no play. The end of the bolt had to match the end of the LED strip without the locknut or spacer falling off. Otherwise, it would be too short and I could end up cracking the grill. Don't wanna do that!

Once both ends are threaded in, I slowly tightened up the new bolts until it was all snugged up.




Only a half hour after I started, it was physically mounted and the grill was ready to be reinstalled.




"Pretty slick," I thought to myself. Now on to wiring. I won't bore you with that, suffice it to say I used a small switch in the cab to drive a relay under the hood. Once that was done, it was time to fire 'em up.




Yeah, OK... I get it. Not much to look at in direct sunlight. But you just wait until dark!


I drove out to the end of the road a couple hours after sunset and set up my camera on the dash. I locked in the exposure (f/4, 1/50, 32000 for you photo nuts), focus and white balance (5100K if anyone cares) to provide an actual, real-life comparison before and after set of pix. So without further ado, here are my low beams only:




I reach down, flip the switch, and BLAMMO!





Yep, it certainly does what I wanted it to do! Sure, it tosses a lot of photons in the same spot the headlights do, but it also really lights up above the hood and to the sides; something one needs to see when off-roading. Yeah, it would be nice to have more lumens aimed to the side, but I think for the cost (less than a c-note for everything), it'll suffice for my needs.

 

Cab lighting upgrade today.

Having driven 1800 miles to spend Turkey Day with family last month, I found a really really really really missed the dome & map lights in my old '02. I embarked on a mission to upgrade the existing plain-jane dome light in my '09 DD. I managed to source a good-condition 1995-2004 F150/Mustang/Bronco dome light with map lights. Grey, to match the headliner. Of course, I knew it wasn't going to be a straight-across swap since I didn't have constant factory power in the headliner for the map lamps. I knew I'd have to fashion a custom fit.

First, I found the screw that picks up the 12v feed for the dome light was in the exact same place as my existing light, so that was the easy part. The hard part was figuring out how to physically mount the replacement and get power to it for both the map lamps and the ground. If I tried to use the same screw for the ground, it would have gone right through the copper busses that were built into the replacement.

So the first thing I did was to get out a meter and figure out what bus and which terminal went where. This didn't take long with a continuity tester (after removing the old lamps!).




I started marking everything with a Sharpie since I'm literally working 'upside down' half the time, and also need to keep track of which is the 'front' of the baseplate. One thing I found was the clips holding the lamps is were loose as a goose, so... out come the needle-nose pliers.




Once I identify the + and - parts of the circuits, I mark them, as well as the new LED lamps. These lamps are polarity-sensitive, so putting one in isn't "your fathers' Oldsmobile".




With everything marked, I install the lights and power up my benchtop power supply to check functions.




This is why the lamps are 'upside-down'... to keep me from getting blinded. I'll install them with the correct orientation once I get to that point.

Now the wiring in the baseplate has been mapped out, it's time to see if the screw is long enough to reach the terminal in the headliner. I clip a jumper wire to the metal frame, mount the new light with the one screw, and see if it lights up. If it does, the screw will work to supply power to the dome light. You can see the alligator clip through the map lamp opening.



At this point, I need to work on two things at once. One, ground the replacement housing and get constant power to the map lights, and also plan on how to physically mount the replacement light so it's secure. Good thing I can hold the baseplate up to the afternoon sun and see the busses running through it. I drill a large enough hole for the mounting screw (being generous enough as possible to allow it to turn slightly), then switch to a smaller bit to drill into the bulkhead above the headliner.




This gets one end of the baseplate secure, but the other side is a bit trickier due to the busses. But I manage to get two new mounting holes drilled in the proper places to secure the new light.








Now the new light will utilize the existing terminal to get power from the factory wiring, but that's only the positive. I still need to ground it, as well as get power to the map lights. So instead of using long screws to reach factory terminal that aren't there, I just use a couple of short 6-32 machine bolts, split washers and nuts.




The one on the left is Ground, right is Map (image is upside down... that's why I mark everything).

One the 'top' side, I attache a ring terminal crimped to some primary wire.




One more step before I can actually tidy up the ceiling of the cab. Since I relocated the mounting screws to make this work, There will be no access to the two new mounting holes once I reinstall the baseplate to the trim bezel. No problem... I use the holes I drilled in the baseplate as a template to drill corresponding holes in the trim.




With those holes, I can enlarge them with a step bit so the mounting screws will pass right through. I figure this is no big deal as the clear cover will hide the holes and screws.




Reinstall the new LEDs as well as the reflectors above the map lamps (not that they'll be doing any good now, but what the heck), screw the baseplate back onto the trim, and it's ready for wiring up.




I use one of the factory holes to attach the grounding jumper, and you can see a bit of wiring peeking out from behind the headliner a bit in the lower left. That's the constant power I brought up from the dashboard.




After a systems check before final install, it's time to start buttoning things up.

Mount the baseplate and trim...




... then pop on the cover. Done!




Ah.... map lights! Time for a road trip.

 

Was in the right place at the right time, $200. for the canopy, not the truck.

Couldn't pass it up, might not be the right color, but I don't care.

 

Upgraded the LEDs in my upgraded dome light.




About 2.5x brighter than the LEDs I bought at WallyWorld. What a huge difference........... one us old farts appreciate.

 

That glass back door is awesome. I don't think I've seen that before on a camper. Very jealous, something like that might just get the wife to go camping.

 

That style back is the only reason I bought it, If it would have been the regular style I wouldn't have even thought about it.

 

Picked it up from the shop where it was taken to get leaks fixed (valve covers and transfer case) and a rough idle fixed.
They ended up fixing those issues, discovering a broken timing chain guide (for lack of a better term because I can't remember what they called it exactly) and fixing that, and installing a K&N cold air intake.
(236k miles)

 

TS, How's the 3-Bulb Taillights coming along.
Im not sure the year the Ranger had the three lights, but it isn't much of a problem to convert the wiring.

Let us know !

 

Thanks for asking! I'll keep you guys posted but it's been set on a back-burner at the moment as this recent repair was a little costly. ... Probably to a degree that had I known we were going to keep tacking things on I would have replaced the engine. ... I noticed on the invoice they did R&R the engine assembly so I'm guessing at the end of the day it wouldn't have been that much more expensive. They replaced gaskets for the valve covers, transfer case, intake manifold, throttle body, exhaust manifold, timing cover, oil pan, crank seal, etc. Replaced timing chains and sprockets with Coyle products, rebuilt/serviced the fuel injectors, rebuilt/serviced the throttle body, replaced the water pump, idle control motor... ... As I was reading the invoice I was thinking it sounded like they weren't far from just rebuilding the whole thing so getting a replacement might have been a better route. ... We had discussed doing that before they started the work. ... I don't remember why we opted not to but I imagine it was cost, which I think would have ultimately been a wash after it was all buttoned back up. ... But I'm content with the outcome. :-D

I think the next thing on the list I'll set aside some cash for is getting a hole in the driver's seat repaired. ... I got some Northwest Seat Covers Neo-Ultra seat covers for it, but I don't want to put them on until the foam is replaced and the hole is fixed. I'm afraid putting them on before that's done will make more foam flake away and potentially wear a hole in the seat cover where it has nothing behind it.

 

I've been looking for OEM Seat Foam for a while now... NOT !

I am in the process trying to find local guys for the job, at least to make the foam pieces. The install is more time consuming than hard, unless you have a 60/40 split seats.

Keep in touch on the projects... PICTURES !

Ltr

 

I do have the 60/40 seat. Which I like because of the one extra seat (only when you're in a bind obviously). ... I know of an interior shop that's done other jobs for me but the bottom line is the bottom line.

 

The seat of the 60/40 Driver's Side is more of a problem because of the seat bottom but the seat backs are just pull off what's there, replace the foam, turn the seat cover inside out, and slide it on...not that simple. It will take some pushing and pulling but over all it wasn't that much of a problem.
I did take the 60/40 base apart (a while back) and the extra part on the side unbolted, so I actually had a bucket seat when it was done; I have seen some people saw off the side piece but for some reason I didn't have to do that.

I think I saw 60/40 Foam at LMC Trucks, but no Bucket Seat Foam.

For me and thanks to a member of this site that doesn't seem to be on here any more, he swapped me a set of FX4 Bucket Seats, for a set of Grey Explorer Powered Seats so me taking apart the 60/40 wasn't necessary. They wouldn't fit my Standard Cab but looked pretty good in his Extended Cab and I do like the Ranger Bucket Seats.


I'll be looking for some bucket seat foam, so if you find some, please let us know !

 

Fiberglassed in the Light Pods I added to the sides of the Grille Shell.
I was headed for the Raptor Light look, didn't find the LED Lights I wanted but got some round lights that work.

Ti match the Side Lights on the Raptor I added small homemade Pods to the Grille Shell instead of the Fender Flares, as the Raptor has.

Here is the last few pictures:



Used JB Weld to adhere the Pods. Still needs Fiberglass and some Bondo to clean it up.



Tjis is the hole behind the pod, drilled though, cleaned up teh opening with some Grinder Bits and my Small Driver.



What I did yesterday was fiberglassed over the pods, waited for it to set, cleaned up the edges, added more resin.

I will get a picture this AM of my fiberglass job.

 

Gave all the door seals a refreshing drink.




Did my work van as well.

 

The smaller one used to be up top but I wanted more.

 

Rolled past 200k yesterday, feels like quite the achievement for me. This 4.0l was the first engine I rebuilt completely solo and I've put nearly 50k miles on it since I did the work.

 

Finally managed to get a ranger bed sized camper. It's in rough shape, needs a new door hinge and window seals, brake light, paint. But for the low low price of pickup and beer money I couldn't say no.

 

Found these on a website a while ago to download for free, finally decided to print them and peel the old box box stickers. I think they turned out alright

 

Fixing gas leak and then trying my best to derust and recoat surfaces. Snapped a bed bolt (pass side by back window) and cannot seem to figure out the type of bolt I need to order.

 

Replacing the tank ?

 

the filler neck :)

 

I'm going to leave them without the clear coat.

 

Gave the ole girl a good bath and polish the other day, just in time for it to snow😂 so today I took her out checking cows and she absolutely shredded through the snow, and looked good while doing it

 

Irobb,

When I replaced my bed I had two bolts bind up; I had to cut the heads off, thank GOD the bolts were far enough above the bed to cut easily.
The best bolts to use for replacement are the OEM Bolts or bolt similar from some of the aftermarket Web Stores.
Here is just one: "DORMAN924310 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} "
This is the link but hope it works: "https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2000,ranger,3.0l+v6,1446377,body+&+lamp+assem bly,truck+bed+hardware,20550"

Get a new set of Bolts and Nuts, AND use an Anti-Seize on the threads.

That Tank need some help, before reusing it, clean it up then check to see if you can remove the locking ring for the fuel pump, in fact check all the hoses while you are at it !

Mine was steel, I didn't bother to determine if it was ok and my fuel pump went bad, by the time I was done there was a new Tank installed and a lot of aggravation.
Only plus was I had used Anti-Seize on the bolts and they came out without a hitch.

Don't mean to tell you what to do, just thinking out loud, as if it was mine !
Good Luck on your project !