The "What did you do to your Ranger today" thread
#6126
#6128
The following 2 users liked this post by Olds1:
DILLARD000 (02-25-2023),
Fordzilla80 (02-25-2023)
#6131
#6134
The following 2 users liked this post by Olds1:
AngryPossum (04-01-2023),
DILLARD000 (04-01-2023)
#6135
The following 3 users liked this post by AngryPossum:
#6137
I used The app Forscan and a wired obdii connector on my 2008 to turn off the tpms system. I bought the truck with no sensors installed and the dash light was always annoying flashing at me. I was able to easily disable the tpms by changing one letter in the as built section of the gem module. Now Ive got no more tpms light. Yay. Also I did the same for my 2010 ford fusion as its got aftermarket wheels and tires with no sensors either. It was easier as I didnt have to mess with any special codes in the as built section. There was a section that just listed a bunch of options to turn on and off with a check box, tpms being one of them. Thanks to the guys at forscan. I always used the forscan lite on my phone for troubleshooting but this was the first time I used the windows version. It was quite the success. I think the F150 community is responsible for much of the translations of As built data into easily read check box style changing. So Thanks to them too.
#6138
I also changed the blower motor resister on the 08 too Only had high speed. Now Ive got all speeds. Oddly enough the resistor looked in good shape. It was the thermal resistor thing that was open circuit. When I bypassed it with a jumper it would work. Now if the ac would just stay charged. LOL.
The following users liked this post:
RudyM (06-07-2023)
#6139
ECM
I am putting another computer in it today. Its have all sorts of issues. The speedometer is not working, it doesn't want to start, hot and cold gauge doesn't work, and my AC compressor won't kick on. It's got like 50 codes on it. All codes are things I have replaced new. The computer has to be the issue.
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RudyM (06-07-2023)
#6140
Just replaced the clutch last weekend. Not as easy at 71 as at 40!!!
Took me 10 hours and I replaced the rear main and slave along with the ClutchMax Pro stage 2 kevlar clutch. Total expenditure about $400 Canadian
Built raised floor to allow jack to pass over the hoist cables
strapped tranny to jack with ratchet strap and 2X4 saddle to keep everything in place
with 383000km figured it was time for a new rear main seal. Replaced this one with new PTFE seal which is installed DRY
New ClutcMaster Pro stage 2 clutch installed
New co-axial release cyl and bearing installed
All finished except for the bleeding. Didn't realize the bleeder was OPEN from the factory so all the fluid drained through as soon as I connected the line - filling the master cyl with air. NASTY critter to bleed!!!!! 10 hours to this point.
Took me 10 hours and I replaced the rear main and slave along with the ClutchMax Pro stage 2 kevlar clutch. Total expenditure about $400 Canadian
Built raised floor to allow jack to pass over the hoist cables
strapped tranny to jack with ratchet strap and 2X4 saddle to keep everything in place
with 383000km figured it was time for a new rear main seal. Replaced this one with new PTFE seal which is installed DRY
New ClutcMaster Pro stage 2 clutch installed
New co-axial release cyl and bearing installed
All finished except for the bleeding. Didn't realize the bleeder was OPEN from the factory so all the fluid drained through as soon as I connected the line - filling the master cyl with air. NASTY critter to bleed!!!!! 10 hours to this point.
The following users liked this post:
RudyM (06-07-2023)
#6145
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
When I bought the truck, I wanted a 2001-2003 White Supercab Edge, specifically. I'm getting older and losing interest in the newer front grille, so I'm putting it back to original. I am keeping the offroad bumper, 06+ mirrors, emblems, tailgate, taillights and corners. Only things changing are the hood and grille, and the parts needed to fit them.
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RudyM (06-26-2023)
#6147
'05 FX4 Finally replaced all the O2 sensors with Densos from RockAuto.
My first fill-up-to-fill-up sample (200 miles) yielded 22.2mpg on a run I could have reasonably expected to be >19mpg.
I tally out next on August 10th but had to share.
The truck is due its biannual inspection this month.
My first fill-up-to-fill-up sample (200 miles) yielded 22.2mpg on a run I could have reasonably expected to be >19mpg.
I tally out next on August 10th but had to share.
The truck is due its biannual inspection this month.
The following users liked this post:
RudyM (07-02-2023)
#6148
Code P0301, P0171, and Coolant Leak on my 97 ranger
1997 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0L V6
So I’m having this problem. My check engine light started flashing then turned solid and shortly after it started running rough, at like 5 mph to stop it jerks a bit. Driving it home i noticed that the coolant gage was hot. I checked and no coolant was in there. I filled it up and drove it a bit then came home. During my drive I noticed that the coolant gave would go hotter then colder randomly. Not on acceleration, deceleration, or idle or high speeds. It just fluctuates. I got codes P0171 and P0301 and P0304 when I scanned it. Does anyone know what is going on or at least can point me in the right direction of what I should check? i have checked the maf sensor, spark plugs and wires, and did the clear flooded engine test thing where you put your foot on the gas peddle and try to start it. Everything I checked is working. I still need to do a compression test but I don’t have a tester for that yet. What else can i check? If anyone has ideas please feel free to reply. Any input helps!
Thank You, Lance
So I’m having this problem. My check engine light started flashing then turned solid and shortly after it started running rough, at like 5 mph to stop it jerks a bit. Driving it home i noticed that the coolant gage was hot. I checked and no coolant was in there. I filled it up and drove it a bit then came home. During my drive I noticed that the coolant gave would go hotter then colder randomly. Not on acceleration, deceleration, or idle or high speeds. It just fluctuates. I got codes P0171 and P0301 and P0304 when I scanned it. Does anyone know what is going on or at least can point me in the right direction of what I should check? i have checked the maf sensor, spark plugs and wires, and did the clear flooded engine test thing where you put your foot on the gas peddle and try to start it. Everything I checked is working. I still need to do a compression test but I don’t have a tester for that yet. What else can i check? If anyone has ideas please feel free to reply. Any input helps!
Thank You, Lance
Last edited by LanceThomsen; 07-14-2023 at 07:38 PM. Reason: Wanted to give better detail.
The following users liked this post:
RudyM (07-14-2023)