Weren't all the Torsen rears 4.10 ?

 

Yes, and the one in there is a standard, run of the mill, average, every day open diff.

 

So I finally got my parts for the cruise control and installed that now looks good again. Without the airbag going off :-))) Now the seat covers and other wheels are missing.

 

Looks good! I replaced them on both of my trucks. It makes a world of difference.

 

Hello,
yes it looks better right away and everything is working fine again.

 

For the cruise steering wheel controls. Is there any airbag concern? Looks good!

 

Some say there is a risk, but I did it on two different trucks without issue.

I'd be more worried about the 2004+ trucks recalled in the humid states. lol.

 

"Any concerns about the airbags? No I disconnected the battery a few minutes before and worked carefully.

 

So now I'm finished with the seat covers. :-))

 

She's purrty. 93 Ranger XLT. I get a lot of compliments on this baby.

 

Those tail lights are butt ugly....

 

I used The app Forscan and a wired obdii connector on my 2008 to turn off the tpms system. I bought the truck with no sensors installed and the dash light was always annoying flashing at me. I was able to easily disable the tpms by changing one letter in the as built section of the gem module. Now Ive got no more tpms light. Yay. Also I did the same for my 2010 ford fusion as its got aftermarket wheels and tires with no sensors either. It was easier as I didnt have to mess with any special codes in the as built section. There was a section that just listed a bunch of options to turn on and off with a check box, tpms being one of them. Thanks to the guys at forscan. I always used the forscan lite on my phone for troubleshooting but this was the first time I used the windows version. It was quite the success. I think the F150 community is responsible for much of the translations of As built data into easily read check box style changing. So Thanks to them too.

 

I also changed the blower motor resister on the 08 too Only had high speed. Now Ive got all speeds. Oddly enough the resistor looked in good shape. It was the thermal resistor thing that was open circuit. When I bypassed it with a jumper it would work. Now if the ac would just stay charged. LOL.

 

I am putting another computer in it today. Its have all sorts of issues. The speedometer is not working, it doesn't want to start, hot and cold gauge doesn't work, and my AC compressor won't kick on. It's got like 50 codes on it. All codes are things I have replaced new. The computer has to be the issue.

 

Just replaced the clutch last weekend. Not as easy at 71 as at 40!!!
Took me 10 hours and I replaced the rear main and slave along with the ClutchMax Pro stage 2 kevlar clutch. Total expenditure about $400 Canadian

Built raised floor to allow jack to pass over the hoist cables

strapped tranny to jack with ratchet strap and 2X4 saddle to keep everything in place

with 383000km figured it was time for a new rear main seal. Replaced this one with new PTFE seal which is installed DRY

New ClutcMaster Pro stage 2 clutch installed

New co-axial release cyl and bearing installed

All finished except for the bleeding. Didn't realize the bleeder was OPEN from the factory so all the fluid drained through as soon as I connected the line - filling the master cyl with air. NASTY critter to bleed!!!!! 10 hours to this point.

 

A couple of ammo cans painted black and bolted to the roof rack to keep all my ratchet straps and bungees organized.

 

Clear coat is coming off so im polishing and waxing it, on day three..

 

Working on a facelift. Couldn't find a white OEM header panel for a reasonable price, so went with an aftermarket version and painted it to match. Everything else is Ford OEM.

Truck is an 03 with an 05 front clip, but I'm putting it back to 03.

 

Really? What going on?

 

When I bought the truck, I wanted a 2001-2003 White Supercab Edge, specifically. I'm getting older and losing interest in the newer front grille, so I'm putting it back to original. I am keeping the offroad bumper, 06+ mirrors, emblems, tailgate, taillights and corners. Only things changing are the hood and grille, and the parts needed to fit them.

 

Got it.

 

'05 FX4 Finally replaced all the O2 sensors with Densos from RockAuto.
My first fill-up-to-fill-up sample (200 miles) yielded 22.2mpg on a run I could have reasonably expected to be >19mpg.
I tally out next on August 10th but had to share.
The truck is due its biannual inspection this month.

 

1997 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0L V6
So I’m having this problem. My check engine light started flashing then turned solid and shortly after it started running rough, at like 5 mph to stop it jerks a bit. Driving it home i noticed that the coolant gage was hot. I checked and no coolant was in there. I filled it up and drove it a bit then came home. During my drive I noticed that the coolant gave would go hotter then colder randomly. Not on acceleration, deceleration, or idle or high speeds. It just fluctuates. I got codes P0171 and P0301 and P0304 when I scanned it. Does anyone know what is going on or at least can point me in the right direction of what I should check? i have checked the maf sensor, spark plugs and wires, and did the clear flooded engine test thing where you put your foot on the gas peddle and try to start it. Everything I checked is working. I still need to do a compression test but I don’t have a tester for that yet. What else can i check? If anyone has ideas please feel free to reply. Any input helps!
Thank You, Lance

 

Welcome to the forum. Best way to check where you are loosing Coolant is to rent from Autozone or your local parts store a coolant pressure tester. Use it to apply pressure to the coolant system and locate where the coolant is leaking. Good Luck, let us know what you find.

 

I will do that next. Thank you. but i don’t think it has anything to do with coolant because i added some and it has not dripped out. i thought it was on my driveway but maybe not.