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Fixing gas leak and then trying my best to derust and recoat surfaces. Snapped a bed bolt (pass side by back window) and cannot seem to figure out the type of bolt I need to order.
Irobb,
When I replaced my bed I had two bolts bind up; I had to cut the heads off, thank GOD the bolts were far enough above the bed to cut easily.
The best bolts to use for replacement are the OEM Bolts or bolt similar from some of the aftermarket Web Stores.
Here is just one: "DORMAN924310 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} "
This is the link but hope it works: "https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2000,ranger,3.0l+v6,1446377,body+&+lamp+assem bly,truck+bed+hardware,20550"
Get a new set of Bolts and Nuts, AND use an Anti-Seize on the threads.
That Tank need some help, before reusing it, clean it up then check to see if you can remove the locking ring for the fuel pump, in fact check all the hoses while you are at it !
Mine was steel, I didn't bother to determine if it was ok and my fuel pump went bad, by the time I was done there was a new Tank installed and a lot of aggravation.
Only plus was I had used Anti-Seize on the bolts and they came out without a hitch.
Don't mean to tell you what to do, just thinking out loud, as if it was mine !
Good Luck on your project !
2 weeks ago a guy was driving distracted and drifted towards me, where I was waiting at a 2 way stop. He drifted all the way over and smacked the front driver side corner of my truck! We basically took the headlights/marker lights, grille, bumper (& brackets) and peeled them off the front of my truck. What I didn’t see was how bad he bent the frame. Insurance totaled it and gave me _$10,000 (for a 1999) I should be happy with $10K, but I’m not! I don’t want $! I want my Ranger! I hadn’t even installed this 2004 4L SOHC engine with a modbox supercharger kit on it! I was a few weeks away from 330-350 methanol fogged HP! Alas it will never be!
Anyway, with a kid in my near future I need a 4 door full size - SO I’m selling the complete 2004 4L with modbox kit and Eaton supercharged (which comes with the computer which was tuned to optimize the SC (currently with the 10.5lb . Essentially it’s a brand new motor (only 3k miles). And I have to sell it. I’ll post an official FS soon. If anyone is interested PM me!
Big day yesterday, scored a compact Kubota deisel tractor with 60 hours on it for an unreal price. It's maxing out the ranger's tow capacity for my manual trans, but it towed it easily with no concerns. I'm pretty sure this is the largest equipment I can haul with a small truck like this.
Recently bought an 05, dream of mine for some years now. Now looking to fix it up a bit. Any recommendations that i should do off the jump? Also looking to see what are GOOD brands to buy for AFM parts.
Any recommendations that i should do off the jump?
I'm not on the welcoming committee, but, WELCOME.
You can start by telling us the mileage and general condition of your new vehicle
Do the basics. Ascertain the quality of your coolant. Measure the battery's voltage after an overnight. Check the charging system's voltage whilst running.
Is the transmission an automatic? Drop the pan, change the filter use MerconV.
IS it a manual? Check its fluid level.
Check/change the differential fluid.
Visually inspect the shocks for leaks. How does it ride?
Maybe change the fuel filter. It is the most overlooked filter. Some members report doubling their mpg thereby! That's a joke.
See if the air filter has ever been changed. The AFs on my 2 vehicles were original. Coarse dirt fell freely from them upon removal. I was amazed.
The PCV valve might be neglected and full of goo, rendering it ineffective. Any related hoses might be cracked with age though I'm not familiar with the 3.0. My 4.0l SOHC has a hard plastic PCV line which indeed does age poorly.
Do you know the age of the engine oil? My PO used a local Quick-Lube for conventional oil changes. I switched to synthetic oil and the engine was instantly much quieter. I suggest you look into that.
Check the brakes for 'life left'.
Last edited by Georgeandkira; May 22, 2022 at 06:51 AM.
179k miles on it, it's a 2wd with a 3.0. Oil is good just changed that myself. Rotors and brakes getting ordered soon. Doing the entirety of the fluids just to be on the safe side.
Found these on a website a while ago to download for free, finally decided to print them and peel the old box box stickers. I think they turned out alright
Any way you would share the image you used? I'd love new graphics for my Ranger but would need to be able to trace it onto vinyl. Alternatively, what would you charge for a pair?
Finally finished the install on my auxillary batteries. Running 2x6volt in series for more amp hours.
Batteries are set up to charge when vehicle is on. I have a 150 watt solar panel for keeping them topped up at camp. Batteries are isolated so as not to drain engine battery. I also put in a selector to run 1, 2 or no batteries (for long term parking and anti-theft). Finding a place for a fuse block was a pain. I chose a spot in front of the rad mount.
Hard mounted battery boxes. Pos Neg post just under the lids. Weather proof Pelican case bolted to top houses the inverter. 1000 Watt power inverter. 2x 12volt plugs on short leashes. One outside and one in the case. Both are weather proof. Battery monitor gauge sits in lid of pelican case. Cheap to buy on Amazon. Battery selector switch under the hood. Homemade bracket from galvanized steel stair bracket I cut down. Doing the first test run before final install. Gives you a peek at the battery without lid in place. . Frame to hold solar panels made from an old bed frame. Solar panels during transport. I wanted them up out of the bed to minimize damage while off-roading. They sit nice up there and do not hinder the rear view out the back window. Solar panel from another angle.
Update: All light bars now run off the auxillary deep cycle batteries I installed in the box behind the cab. This allows me to use them at night to set up camp and not drain the engine battery.
Received my replacement fog light housings this morning so it didn't take long to swap them out. Much better than the old ones which looked like they're made with milk cartons.
The old girl has been accaisionally stuttering on accel - like it's missfiring or running too rich? - also hearing some exhaust noise - and last week started throwing a PO701/704 code (both banks lean) the scanner shows long term and short term fuel trims pegged at 25 and 41. Looking for vacuum leaks I couldn't find any - but I found the EGR tube was smapped off at the manifold (4 liter OHV) - and scoping the MAF sensor the pattern is all over the place. Yesterday I managed to get the EGR valve and pipe off - thanks to the"blue tip wrench" - and since nobody locally had a MAF sensor or EGR tube available I ordered the parts fron Rock Auto - supposed to show up Tuesday or Wednesday. Hopefully it will bring the truck back to life - 378000Km and still truckin'!!!
Replaced the righthand headlamp. For the second time in a few months. Moisture is getting inside. This one came with a different type seal around the bulb plug in. Still having the issue with the temp guage that won't move off cold. I bought a vacuum pump to evacuate and refill the coolant. There may be an air pocket somewhere.
I got some from Amazon that broke in just a couple months. Cheap pot metal so buyer beware. The clamp lever is solid metal so I bought a pair of solid brass connectors and I'll use the levers on them. Sad things is the truck wasn't even being driven. It was just from frequent disconnections while working on the engine.
Decided to go through the replacement engine for my 99 before installing it. Still waiting on a couple of parts before putting it back together. This is my first solo engine rebuild although I have helped with rebuilds before. While waiting on the rest of the parts, I'll start stripping down the original engine. I'll be reusing accessories and dismantling the engine down to just bare block and heads for storage until I need to replace the engine again and then the original will get all new insides.