What circuit did you wire the Daytime Running Lights? Always on, right? Not tied to Fog lights?

 

I put them on the ignition. With the key in the run position, they're on.

 

Finally completed my 5/7 drop. Still needs some modification to fully drive comfortable such as a notch for the driveshaft/pinion angle shims but she rides like a dream

 

I've had the error P0442 for a long time and I've already replaced the Evap Canister and sealed all the hose connections, so now it's time to replace the Emissions System Pressure Sensor, which unfortunately sits between the frame and the tank.
So I removed the cargo bed and installed the repair kit. Here are a few pictures.

 

Good for you....gettin' it done correctly.
Could you take 3 sequential photos of the frame and tank (from rear of cab-going rearward) from directly above, bitte?
How the hoses reach the top of the tank and pump and the electrical wiring is what I would like.
What do the cargo bed bolts go into? ...welded nuts or body nuts?

I see what you replaced is more in or against the frame. Your Pressure Sensor looks like a Dorman.
People make fun of Dorman but they sell a lot of great stuff too.
Did you replace anything else, like hoses?
Thanks

 

Hello Georgeandkira.


Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately the loading area is already back on.
The only thing I have is the picture maybe it helps.
The truck bed bolts are original 12mm bolts with body nuts. I have replaced them with 12mm bolts with nuts.
The pressure sensor is from Dormann there are no more original ones or I haven't found any.
I just replaced a small hose on the tank and the hoses from the Dormann set (DORMANN 905107 (905-107)).

 

Hello Georgeandkira.

The original loading area has the number: N806251-S103 OEM
The original BED BOX MOUNTING BOLTS have the number:N803334-S2

 

The transmission is finally coming out, front seal is leaking I believe.

Needed height so my creeper and I would fit.

I'm finally home long enough to work on it some more. Once I've got the transmission fixed I'll work on the rear axle width issue and then change out the brakes. I believe the issues the front seal is leaking behind the TC, in another day or so I'll know. I when I drained the pan I got about 1qt of fluid out of it

These rims and tires won't be staying but it needs to roll for now so they get to stay.

 

I'm glad I've read through the forums a good bit for advice before going at this. The top 4 bolts needed a ton of extension to get out.

It's out, it sucked to get out but it's out. I think the Exhaust will get removed before the reinstall. Taking out the y-pipe would've made life a whole lot easier.


The trans is out and now I've got to figure out what else to tinker with before I replace the front seal and reinstall.

 

So that's an A4LD transmission?

"...now I've got to figure out what else to tinker with..."
With the access you have, maybe refresh the motor + transmission mounts on your '91?

 

From what I can tell, yeah. I can't really tell by the ID tag on it but it physically looks like an A4LD as I've seen in the manual and online.

The mounts all look pretty good but I might replace them anyway. There's no signs of leaking at the rear main seal so I'm not worried about that. The Flex plate looks good, everything under there looks pretty good. I think I'm going to send it to a shop to do the seals, it doesn't need a full rebuild but it does need the front and rear seals.

 

I've read here that there are "soft rebuilds", where the friction material (and maybe some other stuff?) is replaced and a "hard rebuild", which involves drums and sun gears.
Maybe some of the soft stuff is worn on your '91?

 

New brakes all the way around. Definitely can tell the difference.

 

Added two USB charger modules.




Tired of tying up the Power Points to plug in a plain-jane USB-A adapter, so I ordered these 78W modules with 2 USB-C PD and 2 USB-A QC3.0 ports on the passenger A pillar. The C ports are PD rated, so they'll supply up voltage higher than 5 to quickly charge my devices. They are powered off the ignition so they can't be left on and run the battery down

 

My well tuned 96 2wd 3.0 pulled my sister's 96 Taurus wagon out of a muddy ditch, in reverse up a slight hill, in the rain on wet asphalt. Just spun up the tires a little until they got hot and grabbed the road. Stock everything except wheels, 280k miles.

 

What did you have, rope, sling, span-set or chain?

 

The same old chain I pulled stumps with 50 years ago.

 

This last week I added 1.5" wheel spacers, powdercoated my wiper arms, installed my flush door handles and flipped my rear shackle hangars.

 

New seals on the windows. Both sides had leaks, I ordered the kit from LMC and am happy with it. The "puller" tool was absolutely useless, my pliers were all I needed for taking off the old seals


Pulling the old staples and not tearing up up the fabric wasn't too hard, my Leatherman was all I needed to get it done. The screws that came in the kit did the job well holding it together. I just made sure to "pre-drill" the screw holes before running them in.


[img alt="Tonight was the first run of actually needing my truck to do truck stuff and it didn't let me down. Plenty of work has gone into this beast over the years and it didn't let me down.

It's been a while and I'm always tinkering with this thing when I'm home and have the time. With the shop manuals and an OBD scanner I've been super happy with fixing it up. Rims and tires will happen this summer when I do the breaks/wheel lugs all the way around. "]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ranger-forums.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_20260128_205432_761521f9fb5d69a07cefd6f3159748 159692e0db.jpg[/img]
Tonight was the first run of actually needing my truck to do truck stuff and it didn't let me down. Plenty of work has gone into this beast over the years and it didn't let me down. It's been a while and I'm always tinkering with this thing when I'm home and have the time. With the shop manuals and an OBD scanner I've been super happy with fixing it up. Rims and tires will happen this summer when I do the breaks/wheel lugs all the way around.

Resealed the doors and I'm rather happy with it, there's no more door rattle, and I'll probably redo all of the glass in the distant future. Got those seals from LMC also. The sealant/adhesive, like the puller, was useless. The seals hold in plenty well on their own and just need a trim to fit once you've got them tucked in place.

 

2" spacers for the rear, speed bumps hate me for now but that's ok.

1" spacers for the front, no more rubbing from the junk-find stock explorer rims. I'll get some better rims and tires this summer probably.

Haven't smoke checked it yet but the clamps and goop seam to have sealed this up pretty well. It's a Flowmaster 50 series Delta Flow that I picked up a few years ago and just got around to installing it. It is so much quieter than I expected it would be. Might have to look into a set of headers if there's a direct swap I can find.

Got a 4" lift kit from Rough Country, I'll install it this summer at some point.

The stance is so much better with the spacers. I want to get the re-pro stainless 2-point mount mirrors from LMC but I'm not sure if the holes will line up, have to hit the junk yard and do some measurements.

 

My father asked me to get the Ranger, eight spare wheels, the spare bumper, and the spare bed out of his yard. Unfortunately for us both, his yard is 1,200 miles from my yard. So with four straps, four pieces of hickory, and some determination, I moved all those things in one trip. (Cant decide if this is a thing I did with or to the Ranger, because it's a little of both)