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Fried the battery by crossing battery terminals with wrench while installing a FAT winch😶
I hope it’s just a battery because when I turn the key, the dash lights are so dim, some of them don’t even come on like the normally do, only when plugged into a charger will everything come on, and the starter relay only clicks when key is turned, with charger plugged into it. It’s a lower power charger tho so that might be the issue. Let me know if you have advice! Zxr 9000 was given to me and fits nicely… TIME TO RIP THIS RANGER IN HALF😂 that’s a FAT winch Here she was after I washed it, had some custom made badges put on it as well
If the insides fried, boiled, shorted etc, then I’d try this next.
a) disconnect the current battery to isolate it from your problem solving experiments.
b) try any good battery in a running vehicle
c) jump to the cable and ground leaving out the potentially fried battery. Don’t jump ground to ground CABLE because you’ve proven yourself dropsy.
a typical charger won’t have anywhere near enough juice to start her up.
if she starts fine, go install a new battery and be safe.
I neglect the hell out of this truck (not as much as Dewey neglects his), but for Christmas I bought it a raised transmission crossmember. Now the manhole covers can only destroy the engine crossmember, exhaust, and fuel tank.
I Googled "Raised Transmission Crossmember" and was surprised. I didn't know they existed.
You swap it in and the engine mounts and U-Joints bend to accommodate. Who knew?
I got new tires. They're just stock size Firestone Destination T/A But I also replaced the "limited duty" spare with a full-size tire mounted on the same factory rim as the other four. ... I've seen a forum or two where people were trying to figure out if that was doable and if I stumble onto one of them I'll post a reply there too.
One of the exhaust pipe hangers slightly rests against the "spare". As far as I know tires combust at about 300 degrees higher than an exhaust pipe gets, and the grommets to kill vibration where the hangers connect to the frame are rubber, so I don't think it will be a problem. At least not with regard to heat. (And apparently neither did the guy who mounted them. "It fits in there perfectly." were his exact words.) Another angle of the pipe hanger that rests against it. Maybe I'll go past a muffler shop and see if it can be turned around. It might hit the leaf-spring though, which would probably be worse. ... Speaking of the spring... Is the bottom leaf supposed to be separated like that? (The other side is the same or worse.) You can also see where Ford contoured the frame to make it narrow enough for the donut to fit between the rails rather than riding against the bottom of them like the full-sized tire is. Other side and a bit better view of the contoured portion of the frame. ... (And the other separated leaf.) There isn't much clearance between the differential cover and the spare. About an inch or two. These pictures were taken about 5 miles after the tires were mounted so I think the shiny spot is from the tire rubbing as it was hoisted into place, not from bumping it while underway. ... If it was a serious off-roader this would probably concern me, but being an occasional forest service road is the most action it sees I don't think it will be an issue. ... Any opinions on that? And finally a shot from the back so you can get an idea of how much further it hangs down being on the frame instead of next to it.
Got this bolster fixed at SunMark Upholstery in Bellevue.
I didn't notice a hole was starting on the backrest until taking this picture or I probably would have had them fix that also. ... Hopefully seat covers will keep it at bay for awhile.
Will try to fix tailgate that makes jingle/washer sound when I hit bumps on the road
Today I will try tackling an annoying sound that I recently found to be coming from my tailgate after years of searching for it!
sounds like one of Santa's reindeers' bells got lodged somewhere in the back on my truck. I feel the mary spirit and holiday cheer every time I'm on the road I guess lol
I Googled "Raised Transmission Crossmember" and was surprised. I didn't know they existed.
You swap it in and the engine mounts and U-Joints bend to accommodate. Who knew?
Considering that the measurement from the transmission tailhousing edge to the cab floor is the same with the "raised crossmember" as it was with the original crossmember, that statement is misleading and incorrect for the specific crossmember I purchased from RicksRangerz. Do some more research.
Replaced the passenger side pre-tensioner assembly with a brand new NOS unit. Nothing wrong with my old one other than the release button that was getting faded and dry. I still need to do the driver's side as that one is broken. That's why I wanted to replace the passenger side too.
Added drain lines to my recently purchased metal rollup bed cover. Also got a pair of O.E.M nerf bars that I have been searching for about a year. Found out they are not meant to be installed on my 2000 ranger without the cab door but a good friend of mine who’s a welder came by and welded them on. Looks exactly how I wanted it to. Build is still in progress.
I've been watching Offer Up, Craigslist & Marketplace for a few months now in hopes of finding a wheel & tire setup that was in good shape & cost effective. Luck struck last night when these became available! New wheels & tires day!
Wheels: American Racing AR23 machined w/ clear coat fisnish 15x8, -19mm offset, 3.75" backspacing Tires: Pro Comp Xtreme MT 2 31x10.50R15
That's the problem with the end caps on these bumpers. They will destroy your fenders as they don't mount to anything at the ends.
Anyways,
I recently installed new tie-down points in my 2002 Flareside. I hate the original boat dock styled ones that it came with and realized ones from a 2000's F-Series truck or Sport Trac had the same bolt spacing. They're similar to the styleside ones on a Ranger, but they're slightly smaller. The Ranger styleside ones won't work because the bolt spacing is wider.
That's the problem with the end caps on these bumpers. They will destroy your fenders as they don't mount to anything at the ends.
Anyways,
I recently installed new tie-down points in my 2002 Flareside. I hate the original boat dock styled ones that it came with and realized ones from a 2000's F-Series truck or Sport Trac had the same bolt spacing. They're similar to the styleside ones on a Ranger, but they're slightly smaller. The Ranger styleside ones won't work because the bolt spacing is wider.
Those "Boat style" ones wouldn't happen to be available would they? I'd be interested in them. My '98 fleetside has nothing for tie down points but does have the mounting holes. It looks like they are about 2 1/2" or 2 5/8" spacing.
