2001 ford ranger XLT sport

my 150,000 mile ranger recently had a new rack and piñon, steering pump, and alignment.

now it has a new problem:

the truck turns on and shakes to 10mph then the rpms shoot up to get the truck to 25-35mph and the rpms then need to hit 6000 to reach 40mph until the truck defaults and looses its tranny grip and needs to stop and engine re turned on and the process begins again. I can keep driving it at 30-35mph but the rpms jump on their own at least 1000-1500 without exerting more pressure on gas peddle. The o/d light blinks but no other lights have turned on.

ive read it could be the speed sensor, air flow sensor, bad fuel injectors, and one Arab told me that it’s the tranny. I don’t know who or what to believe and the white Firestone guys want to take me for everything because that’s allegedly what happens to them tomorrow so all can be well in their hearts.

please help. All I have is this truck and the fbi, cia, nsa, and every governer senator and congressman

 

Welcome to the forum

Assuming an automatic transmission

Yes, it IS the transmission, and nothing to do with rack and pinion work

Have you checked the transmission fluid level?
That would be where to start

How does Reverse work?
How does it drive if you manually shift the gears?
i.e. shift to 1st to start out then move shifter to 2nd or 3rd

If OD light flashed then there maybe some Transmission trouble codes in computers memory
They are P0700-P0799, many OBD2 readers can get them but some can not
Auto Parts store will read them for free if you can drive it there, but ask if their reader can read transmission codes

 

yes, automatic but the transmission fluid is fine. In reverse it works immediately after starting but one tapped out from a normal drive command, the reverse doesn’t grip.

the transmission still works... it’s just the fuel injection doesn’t correlate with the pressing of the gas and it seems to have a sensor issue because the truck doesn’t respond to the gas correctly.

 

A gasoline engine doesn't work that way

When you add gasoline to the engine you get a flooded engine not higher RPMs, air is what controls RPMs not fuel

Does it REV up OK in Park or Neutral?
If so not an engine issue

If issues only happen "in gear" then transmission issue, could be torque converter

The gas pedal operates the throttle plate, it lets air into the engine
The sensors(and computer) determine how much air then add gasoline via the injectors to that air
The engine can't REV up without throttle plate opening to let in more air
But if transmission is slipping then engine loses it LOAD so its like it slips into Neutral and RPMs go high until transmission grabs again then RPMs drop with the LOAD

Also OD light flashing means transmission problem
CEL(check engine light) ON or flashing means engine problem


A Diesel engine works the way you think, when you add more diesel fuel you get higher RPMs, diesels have no throttle plate
But 2001 Ranger did not come with a diesel engine

 

it revs fine but the transmission seems to be trying to listen to my gas peddle which is letting in air inconsistent with the pressing of the peddle. Wouldn’t more air and gas make the transmission slip when it releases to move up a gear

 

Leave transmission in Park
REV engine to approximately 2,500 RPM and hold it there, to see if RPMs go up and down

An automatic transmission should not "release" when in gear, the gears are always engaged, just not used
It doesn't "change" gears like a manual transmission, so there is no "release and engage" because its an automatic
The transition between 2nd and 3rd gear, for example, is done by releasing a band/brake allowing planetary gear to rotate, so ratio changes but there is no release, no "neutral" between shifting

Throttle position can't release a transmission thats in gear

 

the rpms held temporarily and jumped to 3000 without more pressure

 

That would be fine, if engine was cold, just the choke, and did it hold at 3,000?

 

the pressure on gas is for 2500 but the rpm gets fuel or air or something to jump without provocation and stays at 3000 and starts screaming

 

Not sure what that means?
Screaming?

The computer controls the Choke using IAC Valve, which can let in more air, it is used when engine is cold to set higher idle when foot is off the gas pedal, but computer can adjust it at higher RPMs as needed

 

when driving @2500 the gas is pressed to 2500rpm and held gently. The rpm on its own jumps after a 1-2 min to 3000-3500rpm and doesn’t release until I tap brake to drop speed.

when parked it does the same thing. Like the rpm trigger is messed up which dictates the gear activated? I saw a video of a guy saying o/d and check engine needs new speed sensor on ranger

 

Unless your speedometer also jumps around then its not the speed sensor, its not an expensive sensor, called the OSS sensor in a 2001, its on drivers side back of transmission

Speed sensor has nothing to do with engine RPMs, it can effect automatic transmission shifting

You can call a Ford Dealer and give them your VIN number, they can then look up your model and see if there is a newer Software for your computer
If I remember correctly the 2001/2002 Rangers did have some erratic RPM issues from software, rare, but known

 

okay, ultimately I’m unable to drive the truck. It doesn’t go over 30-40 and will sometimes miss a gear or not receive the gas it needs or whatever because it won’t even move and I’ll have to turn the truck off and start it again to hope it grips gears and begins to tug forward.

 

Sure reads like a transmission issue, not an engine issue

 

dang

 

Not saying this is your problem, but it may help. Your issue sounds similar to a problem I had with my 2006 ranger. I replaced the TPS sensor and it works fine now. Once again not saying that is your problem, it still could be transmission. The TPS sensor however, is fairly cheap and may take you about 2 minutes to change. May not be a bad idea to try before dropping a bunch of money on the transmission. If it works great, if not, well at least you have a new sensor and you have ruled out at least one possible cause.

 

thank you- not a bad idea. I’m thinking similarly but then I read that bad fuel injectors, a bad mass air flow, a bad speed sensor, a bad tps, dirty trans fluid, a bad whatever also contribute to the exact symptoms that I think trigger a transmission malfunction.

I’ll prob exhaust all before replacing transmission. I also am missing the fuse for the computer codes and my mileage is 150k but car fax says the car was clocked at 220k not too long ago. Just bought on cl