Hi all... New to the forum and have been reading a lot of good information but want to post for confirmation cause I couldn't find my exact symptoms
2001 3.0L 4x4 manual extended cab
a month or so ago I went through a ATM, and when I stopped at the stop sign to leave... The truck died but cranked right back up. Then a couple hundred miles later same thing happened and the truck cranked right back up. Well yesterday, after running several errands and filling up with gas, at the last stop, the truck wouldn't start. It cranks over fine but won't start. Luckily, I was at a hardware store and was able to get some starting fluid. Sprayed a little starting fluid in the air box and the truck fired up but then died and wouldn't start again without starting fluid. While cranking, my I am getting movement on my tach and when the trucked started with ether the rpms were normal for a second until it died. One thing I noticed while trying to crank is my oil pressure gauge would intermittently show pressure and then immediately show no pressure. I'm not sure if this is normal while trying to crank as I've honestly never really paid attention to that because the truck has always started right up. After a tow, I scanned it and got 3 codes... P0141, P0136, P0457.

I knew and have been driving around with the P0141 and P0136 O2 sensor related codes but the P0457 evaporative emissions system leak detected (loose gas cap/off) was new. I never got the loose gas cap light while driving that day. I took the gas cap off and put it back on and the error code went away.

So my questions are, with no other codes, is there anything else I can do to help troubleshoot to narrow it down? Does the oil pressure gauge needle usually go up and down while cranking or is that a sign of another issue?

I've attached a picture of a scan but I have NO idea what any of it means. Haha. Maybe it'll help one of you pros help me narrow it down.



Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

Welcome to the forum

Most likely issue is the fuel pump has died

You should HEAR IT, in the cab, when you first turn on the key, a 2second HUMMMMM then off, from behind the cab
Repeat key OFF and then key ON as much as needed to confirm you hear it or you don't, pump should run for 2 seconds each time

If it fires up by adding fuel manually, starting fluid, then you know computer and spark is working which only leaves a fuel issue

There is a test port on the engine for fuel pressure, looks like a tire's air valve, a schrader valve, and works the same, has a pin in the center, if pressed there should be up to 65psi fuel pressure, if you have cycled key on and off a few times

There is also a fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay in the engine fuse box, you can check the fuse and then swap the relay with another relay in the fuse box to check, but these rarely blow or fail, but FREE to check them


You change fuel pump by unbolting the Filler hose and the 6 bolts holding the bed and sliding it back or tilt it up

 

Thanks for your advice... I checked the relays by switching them around w a known working relay and heard the relay clicking so ruled the relay out. Now I was going to remove the bed and go ahead and get a new fuel pump... When I get underneath the truck to spray the bed bolts with PB blaster... I saw more than just the sky through the rust holes in the bed... 2 cracks in the frame on the driver's side where the cab meets the frame... Oh and a broken gas tank strap. Now my new question is ... Can this be fixed and if so... Is it even worth getting fixed cost-wise?

 

Bummer, thats one "danger ranger" for sure