Well, this is a horrible noise.
#1
Well, this is a horrible noise.
Hi all. Bought a used 2009 Ranger with 50K on it, and it's in pretty impeccable condition. Early on I noticed a faint rattle, which I was hoping was a loose heat shield or something.
Well, it has progressed drastically. Getting under the car and listening, it's coming from right below the engine. Sounds like tin cans in the oil pan. The rattling is reduced under load, but really gets loud as the engine spins down. Here's the recording:
OK... the link-posting function is broken, and you're not allowed to attach MP4 files. Really? Any admin care to weigh in here?
Meanwhile, if anyone wants to go to the effort, put the https:// in front of this and have a listen: http://soundcloud.com/stokestack/200...ger-clattering
Well, it has progressed drastically. Getting under the car and listening, it's coming from right below the engine. Sounds like tin cans in the oil pan. The rattling is reduced under load, but really gets loud as the engine spins down. Here's the recording:
OK... the link-posting function is broken, and you're not allowed to attach MP4 files. Really? Any admin care to weigh in here?
Meanwhile, if anyone wants to go to the effort, put the https:// in front of this and have a listen: http://soundcloud.com/stokestack/200...ger-clattering
Last edited by Stokestack; 12-20-2020 at 08:22 PM.
#2
You've got the V6~4.0L~SOHC with notorious TimingTensioners\Guides.
Sounds like right rear TimingGuide is busted; that's bad news.
Could be CatConvertor honeycomb guts have broken loose; not as bad.
Can drop OilPan to check for broken TimingGuide pieces, or open up right ValveCover for a direct eyeball at that right TimingGuide.
Put a big ScrewDriver\Extension & your ear to the right rear ValveCover?
Sounds like right rear TimingGuide is busted; that's bad news.
Could be CatConvertor honeycomb guts have broken loose; not as bad.
Can drop OilPan to check for broken TimingGuide pieces, or open up right ValveCover for a direct eyeball at that right TimingGuide.
Put a big ScrewDriver\Extension & your ear to the right rear ValveCover?
#3
Hard to tell without being there in person... But your noises could mean a few things. If you've got it pin pointed to the engine then it could be a spun bearing or timing chain. If anything, might be best to change the oil. While you're changing the oil, run it through a screen with a strong magnet on it and let the oil pouring out of the oil pan go onto the magnet before it goes into your catch pan. That way you will see if there are any metal chunks coming out of your oil. If there are, take your lower oil pan off and investigate further. You could even open up the oil filter to see if there's any particulates trapped in there.
Oil can tell you a lot about engine health. If anything, I would start there.
Oil can tell you a lot about engine health. If anything, I would start there.
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DILLARD000 (12-20-2020)
#4
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DILLARD000 (12-21-2020)
#5
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DILLARD000 (12-21-2020)
#6
The exciting answer: it's apparently a catalytic converter on the right side. They're quoting $1700 to fix it. Opinions on that, anyone? I guess there are three cats on this thing?
Does this require welding, or could I do it (no welding)?
And finally: I'm considering making some exhaust changes to reduce the excessive exhaust drone in the cab... so maybe I'll hold off until I decide what to do there and have a muffler place do it all. If anyone has suggestions on exhaust-drone reduction, I'll take 'em too!
Does this require welding, or could I do it (no welding)?
And finally: I'm considering making some exhaust changes to reduce the excessive exhaust drone in the cab... so maybe I'll hold off until I decide what to do there and have a muffler place do it all. If anyone has suggestions on exhaust-drone reduction, I'll take 'em too!
#7
The whole Y-pipe with both cats is $400 on rockauto fyi. Its an easy swap, just cut your exhaust bolts off and replace them and it should be a 1 day job.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...242&cc=1432360
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...242&cc=1432360
#8
Thanks for that. Looks like that model only fits up to the 2006; mine's a 2009. The 2009 design appears to be different, with separate L/R sections that bolt on.
I also need to check the decals on the car to see whether I need the CA version. That's where I am, but the truck is from out of state and hasn't been registered in CA.
I also need to check the decals on the car to see whether I need the CA version. That's where I am, but the truck is from out of state and hasn't been registered in CA.
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