Hello and thank you for reading this,
Last year I bought a 2008 Ranger.
It has been great up until about a moth ago.
The passenger window stopped working.
I thought, time to replace the motor. Both windows had been jerky going down and I had been meaning to get in there to clean it. So, I was not that sad about it.
I replace the passenger window regulator. The window went up smoothly, but not down.
Think the switch went bad and replace it. The windows still will not go down.
Wonder if the driver switch is part of this. I had ordered a new driver switch and regulator so I could do everything in one weekend. Replace the driver side window regulator and switch. The driver side window now goes up and down smoothly, the passenger side still will not go down.
Wonder if the passenger side regulator was DOA, so I run a wire to the battery, The window goes up and down smoothly from the battery.
I test the power, test fine at 12v.
I can see the little green light on the passenger switch, it is lit up.
When I try to make the window go up, I can hear the regulator engage.
When I try to make the window go down, the I get no sound and the little green light on the switch goes out.
I think I have a bad wire some where, (I think it might be the brown\ yellow wire on the door harness. It failed a continuity check on my meter) but I cannot think of where to look and how to test the setup with out cutting some of the wires.
I am not afraid to do this, I just want to know what wire to try.

Any help / suggestions would be very appreciated.

Thank you

 

Welcome to the forum

Power window motors are DC, of course, and have 2 wires, if one wire is 12v and the other a Ground, then motor turns clockwise, if you reverse the polarity, ground/12v then motor turns counter-clockwise, window up and window down

Power windows work by grounds

When any window switch is in Neutral, not touched, then BOTH its motor's wires are GROUNDS
When you press a button one motor wire is disconnected from its ground and connected to 12volt, so motor spins, because it now has 12v and ground, or ground and 12v
And that's how that works, one wire remains a ground, so only 1 wire needs to be toggled to 12v

The Master switch(drivers door) has the TWO ground wires for passenger door switch, these 2 wires run thru the drivers door jamb, behind the dash, thru the passenger door jamb and to the passenger door switch
This is how the Master can control the passenger window motor, it changes one of the 2 ground wires to 12v and passenger side motor spins

The Passenger side switch also has one 12volt wire, so it can also switch either of the masters ground wires to 12v and motor spins


Yes, on my wiring diagram I see a brown/yellow wire and a green/orange wire as the TWO ground wires going from Master to Passenger switch
So if either was bad then window would only move in one direction

The Door jambs are the most common place for a wire to break, drivers door usually since it is opened and closed the most, and the wires are bent back and forth each time
You could remove the driver side kick panel, that's where the driver side wires come out

Key OFF
With master plugged in, use a sewing pin to pierce the brown/yellow wire in the kick panel to see if its a Ground, 0 ohms to cab metal
If not test it at the master switch to see if its a ground, if it is then broken wire is in the door jamb, you will need to pull another wire in

Could be in passenger side door jamb as well, if drivers side kick panel wire is a good ground then I would go passenger side kick panel next