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Hello all! First post here and I'm blessed to have read almost 50 threads worth of 4x4 issues on these Rangers. A special shout out to RonD and the other numerous RF Veterans for their helpful posts to get me where I am.
My truck is a 2006 4.0 Auto, with 4x4...or USED to have 4x4. I bought the truck for a song and a dance from a family member who used it as a work truck at his paint business. The first couple of months with the truck were a joy as I took delivery of it in the middle of a snowy winter here in Ohio in which the 4x4 proved extremely capable - almost surprising. Fast forward another week and...the trans started slipping. At that point, I had to make a call...replace the trans and drive my new Cadillac in the snow OR find a new beater with a heater. I decided on the former. I found a used trans on eBay with a few tens of thousands of fewer miles (which cost more than the truck...LOL) and did the swap. Albeit not the easiest job in the middle of winter...but it did pay off and the truck ran great minus 4x4. After the trans swap, the battery had been sitting and it was deader than a doornail. I tried jumping it multiple times to no avail and decided to put a new battery in it. I've read that doing just that can fry the 4x4CM so I spent that entire winter crawling underneath and manually putting the transfer case into 4lo when needed.
Now it's November and I've been messing around with it, trying to get the 4x4 to work properly before this season's snow. The first thing I did was buy a used 4x4CM on eBay. Part number 6L54-7H473-AB. The factory module ended in AA which I gathered doesn't matter - although I might be looking for AA if I can't fix this truck.
That module did not fix my problem. I then moved on to replacing the Transfer Case Shift Motor. Got a new one on the eBays and tried it, still no luck. That leads us to yesterday. I got a burr up my a** and figured I got burned on the eBay module so I found a parts truck local to me that was a 2001. I spent WAY too much on that module ($100) just to find out that it starts with a 1L54...not compatible... ($50 if anyone needs it, my loss - your gain) Pic attached.
I've been through all the fuses; the one in the engine bay as well as the three? in the passenger side kick panel. All "look" good, but I'm going to pull them all and hit them with the multimeter tomorrow morning.
Is there anything I've missed, short of checking voltage and resistance at the module itself? I'm searching for another parts truck to get the 4x4 switch. I know it's rare for that to go bad, but they're cheap and easy to swap so why not.
Most of the threads I've read have been from 2017-2019 so I'm curious if anyone has found the odd solutions when the above didn't fix the issue.
I checked all four fuses in charge of the 4x4. All tested between 0.0 and 0.3 ohm on the meter. I pulled all four connectors from the SBJ and doused them with contact cleaner and put everything back together. Tested voltage at all fused wires at the module connectors and had 12 volts. Still no 4x4.
Yes, in 2001-2005 Ford used a different 4x4CM which is not compatible with 2006-2011
Electric 4x4 systems are fairly straight forward in any year Ranger, 3 parts in your 2006, not counting wires, lol
Dash switch, just 2 wires and 3 resistors, 4x4cm sends it 5 volts with key on
If 4x4cm gets back 4volts switch is in 2WD position
If 3 volts then 4high position
If 2 volts then 4low position
As you said these dash switches are usually not the problem, unless they are physically damaged
4x4CM, the controller, it has 2 relays inside, one for each shift Motor Wire
The shift motor is a 12volt DC motor just like Power Window motors, so 2 wires, 12/ground = window up, ground/12v = window down, so reversing polarity on the 2 wires causes the shift motor to spin clockwise or counter clockwise
To make it simpler the 2 relays(5 pole) GROUND their motor wire when off, so to spin the shift motor only 1 relay is needed, that relay disconnects ground and connects to 12volt, other wire is already a ground so motor spins
(other 5 wires on the shift motor are "position" switches/sensors)
4x4CM also runs the 4WD dash lights, this is important because 4x4CM will flash the 4WD lights if there is a problem
With key on both 4WD lights should come on and then go off, thats a Bulb Test, all dash lights should do this
If the 4x4cm "sees" a problem with key on it will flash the 4x4 lights several times
Problem can be no return voltage from dash switch
Or no return voltage from Position switches on shift motor
You can unplug the shift motor connector then turn on the key, 4WD lights should flash if 4x4CM is OK, i.e. no return from position switches in shift motor
You can also test the yellow and orange motor wires(from 4x4cm) to transfer case metal with OHM meter, they should both show good grounds, low OHMs
If you turn the dash switch to another setting, with shift motor unplugged, you should hear a "click" from 4x4cm internal relay as it tries to move shift motor and then 4WD lights should also flash because it can't
Shift motor
Not much to theses, as said just a 12v DC motor
Good read here on whats inside them: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...e-shift-motor/
2 wires for the motor part
5 wires for position sensor, which is a contact wheel with 6 "arms", as the wheel turns the "arms" are connected and disconnected in a known pattern that indicates transfer cases shift rod position
The shift motor doesn't need to be bolted to transfer case to work, you can just plug in its connector and if 4x4cm is working it should move to correct positions
You can also take it to the battery and use jumper wires to the yellow and orange wires to see if the DC motor part is working
There is a Mechanical STOP on the drive gear(picture 8 in above link), so motor can't rotate 360 deg, so if its at the STOP reverse polarity and it will rotate the other way
Yes, in 2001-2005 Ford used a different 4x4CM which is not compatible with 2006-2011
Electric 4x4 systems are fairly straight forward in any year Ranger, 3 parts in your 2006, not counting wires, lol
Dash switch, just 2 wires and 3 resistors, 4x4cm sends it 5 volts with key on
If 4x4cm gets back 4volts switch is in 2WD position
If 3 volts then 4high position
If 2 volts then 4low position
As you said these dash switches are usually not the problem, unless they are physically damaged
4x4CM, the controller, it has 2 relays inside, one for each shift Motor Wire
The shift motor is a 12volt DC motor just like Power Window motors, so 2 wires, 12/ground = window up, ground/12v = window down, so reversing polarity on the 2 wires causes the shift motor to spin clockwise or counter clockwise
To make it simpler the 2 relays(5 pole) GROUND their motor wire when off, so to spin the shift motor only 1 relay is needed, that relay disconnects ground and connects to 12volt, other wire is already a ground so motor spins
(other 5 wires on the shift motor are "position" switches/sensors)
4x4CM also runs the 4WD dash lights, this is important because 4x4CM will flash the 4WD lights if there is a problem
With key on both 4WD lights should come on and then go off, thats a Bulb Test, all dash lights should do this
If the 4x4cm "sees" a problem with key on it will flash the 4x4 lights several times
Problem can be no return voltage from dash switch
Or no return voltage from Position switches on shift motor
You can unplug the shift motor connector then turn on the key, 4WD lights should flash if 4x4CM is OK, i.e. no return from position switches in shift motor
You can also test the yellow and orange motor wires(from 4x4cm) to transfer case metal with OHM meter, they should both show good grounds, low OHMs
If you turn the dash switch to another setting, with shift motor unplugged, you should hear a "click" from 4x4cm internal relay as it tries to move shift motor and then 4WD lights should also flash because it can't
Shift motor
Not much to theses, as said just a 12v DC motor
Good read here on whats inside them: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...e-shift-motor/
2 wires for the motor part
5 wires for position sensor, which is a contact wheel with 6 "arms", as the wheel turns the "arms" are connected and disconnected in a known pattern that indicates transfer cases shift rod position
The shift motor doesn't need to be bolted to transfer case to work, you can just plug in its connector and if 4x4cm is working it should move to correct positions
You can also take it to the battery and use jumper wires to the yellow and orange wires to see if the DC motor part is working
There is a Mechanical STOP on the drive gear(picture 8 in above link), so motor can't rotate 360 deg, so if its at the STOP reverse polarity and it will rotate the other way
Ron, thanks for the insight! Once again, you’ve given me a lot to chew on throughout my research. I spent the morning messing with the shift motor. I bench tested both the OEM and the eBay replacement and both work properly. I went ahead and installed the new one for good measure. I’ve got voltage in all the right places in the cab with the 4x4CM.
I do get the bulb test lights when the CM is plugged in and NO test lights when it’s unplugged so does that mean the CM is working? Maybe it’s just a matter of the truck seeing the resistance with the module and sending the lights.
I found a new CM on RockAuto with part number 7L54-7H417-AB. They’ve got an alternative part number of 8L5Z7E453A. I found it by searching for a 2011. It’s a stretch but would it be compatible with my 2006? I’ve seen your posts saying 01-05 are compatible and 06-11 are compatible but I know the 06 is the red headed stepchild year…
I’ve done everything you’ve suggested throughout the forum except check resistance/voltage under the truck at the 7 pin connector. What should I be looking for as far as values under there?
Or if the fact that I’m not getting a “click” from the module at all means I need a new one; will the 2011 work?
I just read a thread about one guy fixing this by finding a broken wire on top of the trans, maybe I should pull the driver’s seat and cut the carpet back and see if I can inspect the wiring. Installing that trans was miserable so I don’t have ANY desire to check it from under the truck… LOL
Yes, in 2001-2005 Ford used a different 4x4CM which is not compatible with 2006-2011
Electric 4x4 systems are fairly straight forward in any year Ranger, 3 parts in your 2006, not counting wires, lol
Dash switch, just 2 wires and 3 resistors, 4x4cm sends it 5 volts with key on
If 4x4cm gets back 4volts switch is in 2WD position
If 3 volts then 4high position
If 2 volts then 4low position
As you said these dash switches are usually not the problem, unless they are physically damaged
4x4CM, the controller, it has 2 relays inside, one for each shift Motor Wire
The shift motor is a 12volt DC motor just like Power Window motors, so 2 wires, 12/ground = window up, ground/12v = window down, so reversing polarity on the 2 wires causes the shift motor to spin clockwise or counter clockwise
To make it simpler the 2 relays(5 pole) GROUND their motor wire when off, so to spin the shift motor only 1 relay is needed, that relay disconnects ground and connects to 12volt, other wire is already a ground so motor spins
(other 5 wires on the shift motor are "position" switches/sensors)
4x4CM also runs the 4WD dash lights, this is important because 4x4CM will flash the 4WD lights if there is a problem
With key on both 4WD lights should come on and then go off, thats a Bulb Test, all dash lights should do this
If the 4x4cm "sees" a problem with key on it will flash the 4x4 lights several times
Problem can be no return voltage from dash switch
Or no return voltage from Position switches on shift motor
You can unplug the shift motor connector then turn on the key, 4WD lights should flash if 4x4CM is OK, i.e. no return from position switches in shift motor
You can also test the yellow and orange motor wires(from 4x4cm) to transfer case metal with OHM meter, they should both show good grounds, low OHMs
If you turn the dash switch to another setting, with shift motor unplugged, you should hear a "click" from 4x4cm internal relay as it tries to move shift motor and then 4WD lights should also flash because it can't
Shift motor
Not much to theses, as said just a 12v DC motor
Good read here on whats inside them: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...e-shift-motor/
2 wires for the motor part
5 wires for position sensor, which is a contact wheel with 6 "arms", as the wheel turns the "arms" are connected and disconnected in a known pattern that indicates transfer cases shift rod position
The shift motor doesn't need to be bolted to transfer case to work, you can just plug in its connector and if 4x4cm is working it should move to correct positions
You can also take it to the battery and use jumper wires to the yellow and orange wires to see if the DC motor part is working
There is a Mechanical STOP on the drive gear(picture 8 in above link), so motor can't rotate 360 deg, so if its at the STOP reverse polarity and it will rotate the other way
Ron, should I text for 5v on the white/light blue wire at the switch? Would that confirm or deny CM function?
You can test it that way or test it at the 4x4CM while its plugged in and key on, also the return, yellow/blue wire
I would unplug the 4x4 CM and test for 12volt on its 4 12v wires
Then also test that the 2 Ground wires are OK
Ron,
So this afternoon on my lunch, I decided to test some voltages at the switch. These were my findings:
At the White/Blue pin;
2WD - 3.85v
4Hi - 2.94v
4Lo - 1.76v
At the Blue/Yellow
2WD - 1.4 mV
4Hi - 1.5mV
4Lo - 1.7 mV
Should those return voltages be much higher? Maybe I'm one of the few cases where the switch is the fault...?
Let me know your thoughts. I found a CM local-ish to me from car-parts.com thanks to you. If these numbers look proper from the switch, I may go ahead and snag that since I've got Friday off.
At the White/Blue pin;
2WD - 3.85v
4Hi - 2.94v
4Lo - 1.76v
The above voltages are correct, this is a 5volt circuit, and its a "pull down" or "pull up" circuit, lol, those always confuse me
So the test the other way/other wire won't show true voltage
Switch is OK
At the White/Blue pin;
2WD - 3.85v
4Hi - 2.94v
4Lo - 1.76v
The above voltages are correct, this is a 5volt circuit, and its a "pull down" or "pull up" circuit, lol, those always confuse me
So the test the other way/other wire won't show true voltage
Switch is OK
With key on both motor wires, on the truck side, should be good grounds, i.e. 0 OHMs to transfer case metal
There is no test for the 5 position wires
If one of these wires was bad/disconnected then 4WD lights on the dash should flash with key on or when you tried to change shift motor's position and thats the 4x4CMs job
Same if dash switch voltage was off, flashing 4WD lights
The 2001-2011 4x4 system is pretty simple, just the 3 "parts"
Dash switch
Shift motor
4x4CM, which will notify driver with flashing 4WD lights if either of the other 2 "parts" are out of spec
If you are not getting flashing 4WD lights but also no 4WD shifting then I would test the 4x4CM wires again
And you should hear a relay "click"(inside 4x4CM) when you change dash switch
Hey I just got mine figured out. The brand new Chinese shift motor I bought on Amazon was bad. See my post for what I did. Taking it to a shop and spending $100 on diagnosis was well worth it. I now have to return or try and sell 3 4x4cms.
Hey I just got mine figured out. The brand new Chinese shift motor I bought on Amazon was bad. See my post for what I did. Taking it to a shop and spending $100 on diagnosis was well worth it. I now have to return or try and sell 3 4x4cms.
Hey Ryan! Did you test your new shift motor before installation? Both my old motor and new motor work when hooked up to a 12v source. Even if they work, I guess that doesn't confirm that there isn't an issue internally with a contact.
I'm on my fifth 4x4CM... I agree with you, it's time to take it to a shop to have codes pulled beyond what AutoZone can read on their scanner.
I tested it afterwards with 12v and it worked. Problem was the contact wheel/plate. You can test it at home I believe. Check out my sub and it explains the contact plate test. Snow coming Thursday here so get to put it to work 👍.
I tested it afterwards with 12v and it worked. Problem was the contact wheel/plate. You can test it at home I believe. Check out my sub and it explains the contact plate test. Snow coming Thursday here so get to put it to work 👍.
We've also got snow coming next week. That makes sense, I did cheap out and bought an eBay motor when I thought that was the issue. Both OEM and China motor "work", but the contact position is something I never thought of. Where did the motor come from that worked finally? RockAuto?
Did you have any flashing 4x4 lights or was it just the dummy lights on startup and then nothing else? That's what I'm looking at. I get the dummy lights and then nothing with any change on the dash switch. I've got an appointment on the 22nd to have a shop run diagnostics. I've got another truck I can use for the upcoming snow, but I really wanted to put it away from the salt and just bash around in the Ranger. I really hope they can tell me something...
I get the initial dummy light then nothing. No flashing, If I were you I’d just get another shift motor from a more reliable source and throw it in just to see. Just return it if it still doesn’t fix it.
I get the initial dummy light then nothing. No flashing, If I were you I’d just get another shift motor from a more reliable source and throw it in just to see. Just return it if it still doesn’t fix it.
Mind tossing me the link to the one you bought? You can be my reliable source.
11-03-2023
