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F150 pinion seal

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Old 08-28-2005
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F150 pinion seal

hey, my dads 2000 f-150 started leaking fluid from the pinion seal. any special tools required to take it apart and replace it? any help would be great
 
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Old 08-28-2005
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Nope. You will need an air impact to get the pinion nut tight enough when reinstalling it though. Tq specs is something like 300 lb/ft... All you gotta go is pull the pinion nut and then pry the old seal out with a flat blade, be careful not to mess up the sealing surface on the housing and the put the new one in. It may take some careful tapping to get it in, just make sure its in straight and flush... I used some silicone lubricant on mine to get it to slide in and seal... Reinstall and your good to go. Be sure to top of fluid.
 
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Old 08-28-2005
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thanks, that'll work, guess we'll have to get a torque wrench or impact i dunno... so no crush sleeve huh?
 
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Old 08-29-2005
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the pinion nut is difficult to do correctly, you must tighten it to the torque it took to remove the nut. you need to be able to measure how much force is required to remove the nut, so you can put it back exaclty like that. if you dont put the nut back PERFECTLY, then you could over or under tighten by just a few foot pounds and the gears will whine or wear down. personally its something i would take to a shop
 
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Old 08-29-2005
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Find me a shop that will actually dis-assemble a diff to replace the crush sleeve for a damn pinion seal.

None around here that i know of. You can't do it fast enough to make any money tearing the diff apart. I've done PLENTY of them just removing the nut, yoke and replacing the seal and re-torqueing the nut+yoke to proper bearing pre-load and NEVER had any come backs or problems with gear noise, premature wear/bearing failure.
 
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Old 08-29-2005
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Originally Posted by 034x4
Find me a shop that will actually dis-assemble a diff to replace the crush sleeve for a damn pinion seal.

None around here that i know of. You can't do it fast enough to make any money tearing the diff apart. I've done PLENTY of them just removing the nut, yoke and replacing the seal and re-torqueing the nut+yoke to proper bearing pre-load and NEVER had any come backs or problems with gear noise, premature wear/bearing failure.
Same here..
 
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Old 08-29-2005
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Originally Posted by 04 EDGE
this statement is 100% incorrect!

list of parts you will need
one new pinion nut (ford)
one new crush washer (ford)
one new pinion seal (whoever)
maybe one bottle of axle fluid

you will need a torque wrench, DO NOT use a impact gun to tighten (preload) the pinion nut!the crush washer is a "one time" use only part and can not be reused.
bob is somewhat correct with his comments.
get a manual and read what is says for adjusting the pinion pre-load.
its to long for me to type and i'm tired.
How the hell do you get over 300 lb/ft of torque on a pinion nut without an impact?!?
 
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Old 08-29-2005
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with a torque wrench silly.
 
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Old 08-30-2005
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Originally Posted by advantEDGE
with a torque wrench silly.
Maybe a 6 footer with the truck up on a lift...
 
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Old 08-30-2005
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Originally Posted by 3LiterBeater
Maybe a 6 footer with the truck up on a lift...
ya, you tighten the nut with an impact and as it starts to tighten up start checking the pre-load. You would have to have a long *** torque wrench and have a damn good way to hold that pinion yoke to put 300lb/ft on it by hand.
 
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Old 08-30-2005
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ya ASE's test are really something to brag about
 
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Old 08-30-2005
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More like the *** test...
 
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Old 08-31-2005
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lol this is fawkin sad. "i have ase's so i can call anyone who doesn't masterbate to certifications that are a joke shade tree's".

This is rediculous man. I've already been through 1 year at a tech college for automotive. And i've taken many old ASE tests in many of my classes.

Let me put it this way, one guy FLUNKED out of the course at my college, got a job at a dealership and PAST his ASE's.......you tell me.
 
  #18  
Old 09-01-2005
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Hahaha. This is great. ASE guys think their shiat don't stink. I replaced my pinion seal 12k miles ago.. with an impact, without a new crush sleeve, and its yet to whine, break, snap, wear, leak, etc. I guess now that I know I did it all wrong and "butchered" it I should run down to an *** certified master super duper technician and pay him 70 bucks/hr more than hes worth to do it the "RIGHT" way...
 
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Old 09-01-2005
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of course man of course.
 
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