Hello everyone. Ron has been helping me work on a couple issues I am having with my ranger. 1st issue is "check engine light" does not come on when key is turned to on. Have decided I have a bad cluster and have one on order that will be here Monday. 2nd issue is fuel pump died and a new one is on the way.
I have attached two photos of Ranger Fuel pumps in the tank. One has a flange around the pump. This is what I see every time I look up removal and replacement of the pump.
My pump (other Photo) shows what I call the CD/DVD holder mount. I have not seen this anywhere else in all the searching I have done on the internet.
Can someone please tell me exactly how to remove the pump? I don't want to screw something up in the process of removing the old pump and installing the new one.
Many thanks.

Gas Pump with flange.

My fuel pump.

 

The smooth edged round part lifts up and hold assembly pulls up with it
Use a flat blade screwdriver around the edge to loosen it

You should remove fuel lines first
Ford uses 2 styles
The clip style, like this: https://www.therangerstation.com/wp-...irpin_clip.jpg

And the ring style like this: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...cdea556392.jpg
These have lock tabs in a ring that hold the connection in place
You slide a tool inside connector which pushes the tabs back and unlocks connection
Tool looks like this: https://canadiantire.scene7.com/is/i...id=573&hei=499
Or
these: https://www.toolsource.com/images/pr...200Wx1200H.jpg

Or you can cut a can and wrap it around the port and slide it into connector to release the tabs

 

I did an in-tank pump on a European car. Had to get a special tool for the ring, common to Volvo, BMW, Merc, Audi.
The tool was a cheap Chinese tool, required a lot of filing to reshape the metal and make it work.
Big lessons from the job -
- work with empty or nearly so tank (this car had a siphon guard which really wonked that part of the job)
- replace whatever seals you encounter with new, highest quality, so you only go in there once!
- clean the area around the part and lines (409+paper towels) up really well before opening system
- if there's a filter, regulator, etc, in there replace it at the same time
- is there a tool needed to disconnect or clamp fuel-lines? find out, get one; if old connections will be brittle
- if there is a tool specified, consider buying, renting, borrowing or making one
- assure you have fresh-air ventilation blowing past you and away the full time
- do not work near a possible dource of ignition!!
- have a chemical grade extinguisher at hand, and try to arrange to work outdoors away from structures

 

Ranger--Thanks so much for the info and suggestions.
1. All I need to remove the pump is a brass punch (ordered it off Amazon for $7.00) and will arrive thursday, the same day as the new pump.
2. Just need to pry up locking tab on the ring, then put punch on one of the wings of the locking ring and tap with a non-metal hammer. (I have one).
3. New hose locking tabs come the the pump.
4. Unfortunately, the tank is almost full. I bought 3 5 gallon cans to pump the gas into so I can take a flashlight in look into the tank and see if it needs cleaning.
5. The truck is parked in my driveway with the bed pulled back giving access to the pump.
6. I will definately clean all around the pump hole before removing and after.

 

I thought I had fuel pump issues only to find out the ECM wasn't getting power. I found this because the CEL wouldn't come on. Replaced the relay that sends power to the ECM and the CEL came on and the fuel pump worked.