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Hello, Ive been away for a minute and now would appreciate some advice or help or both. Hopefully someone can help with my alternator/charging issue.
First the info stuff:
I drive a 1989 Ford Ranger Ext. Cab XLT, 2.9 Automatic. I've owned my "Voodoo Ranger" for almost 4.5 years. Do most of the non-lift repair and maintenance myself. I've never had any serious trouble from my truck. Had to have the transmission rebuilt about a year ago.
Now some background on how my issues started. Everything was going well but was having problems with my tachometer reading high, sometimes it would work correctly, usually though it would read about 1200-1500 rpms high. So I watched some YouTube and realized how to remove the tachometer from the front of the cluster. Great! Removed tach very carefully, then cleaned all connections with electrical contact cleaning spray. Reinstalled tachometer and viola, everything was great. While I was at it, I decided to replace a couple of burned out illumination bulbs. While I had cluster out of dash I saw that the electrical card on the rear was separating and looked to have a broken circuit. After I reinstalled cluster things went south. When the key was in the on position, odd cluster bulbs would half illuminate and the left parking light would illuminate with my headlights illuminated very very dim. Upon cranking truck tachometer nor voltmeter in cluster worked with above stated cluster issues. If I turned the lights on, only my high beams worked. Removing the key from ignition would allow my brights to flash and my regular headlights to illuminate when the headlight switch was in the on position. Everything had been working as normal until I physically saw the broken circuit on gauge cluster card. I paid this inconvenience no real attention. Unwisely! I drove 46 miles to and from work for two days. Went to leave work on that second day and my "Voodoo Ranger" was dead. Ok, jumped it off and left for my return home trip. I only made it a couple of miles before my truck would barely stay running and only achieve a few miles an hour. Pulled into the AutoZone and checked my battery voltage only to find it was 1.2 volts. So 30 minutes later I had purchased a entirely to expensive new battery. Then we tested charging system and the parts guy said the alternator was showing bad. So with fresh battery I drove to the Advance near my house and ordered a reman alternator for early the next morning.
The next morning I called my work and explained my problem and my solution and that I would be in later that morning. I picked up the ordered reman alternator only to find it was the incorrect model. Ordered the correct alternator for noon and waited. After picking up the correct alternator, I installed it, only to find that it was not charging the new battery. Of course, I did not have it bench tested before leaving store. I removed the alternator, returned it and ordered another for 5pm that evening. I had called work and told them I would not be in by this time. Received 5 o'clock alternator and installed. Only to realize it was not charging the battery either. So, checked continuity on all wires, replaced large 60 amp and 50 amp alternator buss fuses under hood.
So long story short, I'. at a loss as to what's possibly going wrong. I'm driving my truck on pure battery. I lose about .7 volts each way to work. This is without lights, blower, radio. Everything is off, I know my AT has electric shift so that drains the battery as I drive. Every evening for now I'm charging the battery to 12.3 volts and upon return home it is around 11 volts. As the truck sits at any given time there is NO voltage loss. I checked everything I can think of. Is it possible that my rudimentary computer has the cluster broken circuit(it is broken) and my alternator is malfunctioning because it cant complete the circuit to my in dash voltmeter, so the alternator doesn't put out a charge ? It is the only thing about this that I or about 15 of my contacts can think is happening. Again no issues until I laid my eyes on the broken circuit.
PLEASE anybody and everybody help. Has this happened to anyone else ?
Thanks in advance,
Michael Voodoo Ranger Gray Torque Thrust D's and Cooper Cobras on truck now. Photo is a couple of years old.
The cluster turns on the Alternator via the Battery Light(charge indicator) circuit, my guess is you no longer have a Battery Light, so alternator is OFF
2G and up Charging systems are very simple, they have internal voltage regulator
You need a volt meter
Test battery FIRST, you will get a voltage between 12.3v to 12.8v, REMEMBER IT
On the alternator will be a larger wire(or 2) on a Stud/nut terminal, usually, this is called B+, it is a wire directly to Battery Positive, with a fuse or fusible link
Test this terminal, should see battery voltage EXACTLY, you remember it right?, lol
If not then fuse or fusible link is bad
Unplug the 3 wire connector on alternator
Yellow wire is also connected to Battery positive thru a fuse
Test its should be EXACTLY battery voltage
Green wire, is the ON/OFF switch for alternator
Should be 0v key off, and 12volts key on comes from cluster, can be slightly less than battery volts, 0.2v less at most
If those 3 wires test as OK then plug back in 3 wire connector
Start engine
Test battery volts again
13.5v to 14.8v is acceptable
Under 13.5v and alternator is bad, period, not a guess
Thanks for your diagnosis Ron. You've confirmed my assessment that the card on the cluster is the culprit as it doesn't tell the alternator to turn on. I guess I'll need to find a replacement cluster for my truck. Hopefully I'll be able to find one. Is it possible to run the circuit without the cluster ?
I've been reading your posts for years now. Thank you for your dedication and knowledge. You are a Godsend!
Ran my wire from the IAC as you suggested and the charging system is working as it should. I also found a cluster in Florida and am waiting on delivery next week.
Thanks againMichael