Battery arcing and blowing 175 fuse on 99 3.0 ranger
#1
Battery arcing and blowing 175 fuse on 99 3.0 ranger
So my bettery light came on truck died had it towed home. Pulled the battery and alt took em in to get tested, battery was good alt was fried. Bought new alt and installed it still had battery light and no output from the alt. Took the alt back for a different one and installed it. Same thing no output for the alt. Checked the fuses the #15 in dash was good #14 underhood was good threw a meter on the 175 fuse and got OL. Replaced 175 fuse put everything back together and the battery started to arc blew the 175 fuse again. Any ideas on why and how to fix.
#2
#3
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#4
I am getting 0.4 ohms to the engine block so I am assuming it's touching somewhere its not supposed to be?
#5
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Yes, that would be correct, dead short to ground on that wire
You can unwrap harness or you can cut ends off old wire and install new wire, needs to be larger wire, it runs directly from B+ terminal on back of alternator to the 175amp Mega fuse terminal
But unwrapping harness and finding the damaged wire may also show other damage at that location, if wire did melt it may have damaged other wires in the harness with it
You can unwrap harness or you can cut ends off old wire and install new wire, needs to be larger wire, it runs directly from B+ terminal on back of alternator to the 175amp Mega fuse terminal
But unwrapping harness and finding the damaged wire may also show other damage at that location, if wire did melt it may have damaged other wires in the harness with it
#6
#7
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Yes, its in a harness with other wires
Just for future reference, Ford charging systems are pretty easy to test
Test battery voltage, key off/engine off, should be 12.3v to 12.8volts
12.8v is a new battery
12.3v is a 5 year old battery and close to end of life
12.2v or less is a failed battery, or very very drained, may or may not recharge and hold it
Alternator test
Key OFF
B+ terminal on back of alternator should read Battery volts, i.e. if battery tested as 12.5v, then that's what this terminal should show.
Unplug 2 or 3 wire connector on alternator
Yellow wire should show battery voltage, if not its fuse is blown
Green wire 0 volts
Turn key ON
Green wire should now show battery volts, this green wire is the ON/OFF switch for alternator, and also the battery light
If green wire is 0 volts with key on this its fuse is blown
Plug connector back in
Start engine
Test battery voltage again
Should be above 14volts, but under 15volts
If its the same voltage as engine off then alternator is bad, for sure
Just for future reference, Ford charging systems are pretty easy to test
Test battery voltage, key off/engine off, should be 12.3v to 12.8volts
12.8v is a new battery
12.3v is a 5 year old battery and close to end of life
12.2v or less is a failed battery, or very very drained, may or may not recharge and hold it
Alternator test
Key OFF
B+ terminal on back of alternator should read Battery volts, i.e. if battery tested as 12.5v, then that's what this terminal should show.
Unplug 2 or 3 wire connector on alternator
Yellow wire should show battery voltage, if not its fuse is blown
Green wire 0 volts
Turn key ON
Green wire should now show battery volts, this green wire is the ON/OFF switch for alternator, and also the battery light
If green wire is 0 volts with key on this its fuse is blown
Plug connector back in
Start engine
Test battery voltage again
Should be above 14volts, but under 15volts
If its the same voltage as engine off then alternator is bad, for sure
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Bradthebuilder
General Technical & Electrical
3
07-07-2017 04:44 PM
jetmon135
General Technical & Electrical
1
10-24-2012 12:46 AM