Battery dying
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From: NJ
Battery dying
I have an 02 Ranger with a 3.0. Start out with a little background on this. I acquired this and it had a dead battery from sitting for well over a year so I put it on a charger. The power window doesn’t work on passsnger side window. From neither the driver’s side or passenger controls. I find it odd that it didn’t work and figured if it was fuse but if it was then neither driver’s or passengers windows wouldn’t work. I pulled the fuse box cover and there’s no diagram of what fuse is what, so I checked every fuse and they all look fine. After checking the fuses I lost my entire cluster and radio. Pull the fuse block and check the wires behind it in case something came loose and everything looks fine. I went ahead and replaced the battery after multiple chargers and it dying although it was driving fine regardless of the cluster and radio not working. Then the battery dies after replacing it. Figured well the alternator was not working since I put it on a voltmeter and I’m getting 11 volts at the battery. So I replaced the alternator. I replaced the alternator a couple days ago and today it did the same thing and died on me while driving. Could I have blown a relay when checking the fuses? I haven’t checked the relays yet. Maybe a bad ground cable.
Welcome to the forum
You can get 2002 owners manual here, it will have fuse diagrams: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/
You have a volt meter so test battery voltage with engine off then engine running
Engine off should be 12.3v to 12.8volts
Engine running should be 13.5v to 14.8volts
If voltage doesn't go up by at least 1.5volts then alternator is NOT ON, bad wire or fuse
Yes, car battery sitting for a year connected to vehicle will be ruined, won't hold a charge longer than a few hours.
Passenger side window motor may be bad, best thing to do is to pull the door panel and unplug the 2 wire motor connector, power windows only have 1 fuse for both windows
Turn on the key
Test the switch wire connector for the motor with volt meter, should see +12v and -12v depending on which way you push the button, if so then replace motor, if no volts then test for 12v on the light blue/black stripe wire on the switch, key still on
If there is 12v on the blue wire then test the White and Tan wires as GROUNDs, so test between blue and white wire for example, should see 12v, if either the white or tan wire is not a good GROUND then Drivers door switch could be the problem
And just a heads up about power windows, the window can be wedged in at the top so motor doesn't have enough torque to pull it down, prior to losing the instrument cluster, you have a Volt Gauge next to oil pressure gauge, when you press a button for Power Windows you should see the gauge needle move down, that means motor is getting voltage, if window doesn't move then it is wedged in
Fuse #11, 7.5amp, in cab fuse box powers instrument cluster AND turns on the alternator, so check that carefully, use OHM meter not eyeball, "looks good" is great for cars and women, but NOT for fuses, lol
Fuse #20, 7.5amp, in cab fuse box is also one to check
You can get 2002 owners manual here, it will have fuse diagrams: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/
You have a volt meter so test battery voltage with engine off then engine running
Engine off should be 12.3v to 12.8volts
Engine running should be 13.5v to 14.8volts
If voltage doesn't go up by at least 1.5volts then alternator is NOT ON, bad wire or fuse
Yes, car battery sitting for a year connected to vehicle will be ruined, won't hold a charge longer than a few hours.
Passenger side window motor may be bad, best thing to do is to pull the door panel and unplug the 2 wire motor connector, power windows only have 1 fuse for both windows
Turn on the key
Test the switch wire connector for the motor with volt meter, should see +12v and -12v depending on which way you push the button, if so then replace motor, if no volts then test for 12v on the light blue/black stripe wire on the switch, key still on
If there is 12v on the blue wire then test the White and Tan wires as GROUNDs, so test between blue and white wire for example, should see 12v, if either the white or tan wire is not a good GROUND then Drivers door switch could be the problem
And just a heads up about power windows, the window can be wedged in at the top so motor doesn't have enough torque to pull it down, prior to losing the instrument cluster, you have a Volt Gauge next to oil pressure gauge, when you press a button for Power Windows you should see the gauge needle move down, that means motor is getting voltage, if window doesn't move then it is wedged in
Fuse #11, 7.5amp, in cab fuse box powers instrument cluster AND turns on the alternator, so check that carefully, use OHM meter not eyeball, "looks good" is great for cars and women, but NOT for fuses, lol
Fuse #20, 7.5amp, in cab fuse box is also one to check
Last edited by RonD; Jul 30, 2018 at 09:54 AM.
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