Bunch of codes. Your Thoughts?
I would buy a Vacuum gauge, $25, good tool to have in the box.
Good read here on tests to do: Technical Articles: Engine testing with a Vacuum Gauge - at Greg's Engine & Machine
Since you don't have a baseline reading(vacuum level at idle when there is no problem) you will have to wing it a bit, if your vacuum is near 17 then you could have a leak, try removing a hose and see how much level changes, so you can get an idea of the change with a known leak.
This page has voltage readings and how to test MAF: Ford Ranger Mass Air Flow Cleaning, Removal and Installation
Computers are not testable really, you can open the top and look for discolored circuits, the capacitors leak as the get older, this changes circuit voltages and since most voltages being used are very low any slight change can make a big difference.
You can often borrow or rent a fuel pressure gauge from auto parts stores.
Good read here on tests to do: Technical Articles: Engine testing with a Vacuum Gauge - at Greg's Engine & Machine
Since you don't have a baseline reading(vacuum level at idle when there is no problem) you will have to wing it a bit, if your vacuum is near 17 then you could have a leak, try removing a hose and see how much level changes, so you can get an idea of the change with a known leak.
This page has voltage readings and how to test MAF: Ford Ranger Mass Air Flow Cleaning, Removal and Installation
Computers are not testable really, you can open the top and look for discolored circuits, the capacitors leak as the get older, this changes circuit voltages and since most voltages being used are very low any slight change can make a big difference.
You can often borrow or rent a fuel pressure gauge from auto parts stores.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Windsor, Ontario
After looking at it myself It is definitely not a radiator. I just looked at it quick at lunch. The coolant resovoir is still pretty full however when I look inside the actual rad cap it looks empty. There is alot of fluid which looks like the antifreeze (colour is brown). Most of the fluid is on the front of this box:
Random picture i found online:
It is not the heater core hoses as they are dry. What is this box? To the right of the blower motor housing. What do you guys think?
Thanks again,
Kevin
Random picture i found online:
It is not the heater core hoses as they are dry. What is this box? To the right of the blower motor housing. What do you guys think?
Thanks again,
Kevin
That is the evaporator housing for the A/C; at its front, the two metal lines run to the dryer, and to thecondensor, eventually to the A/C compressor. However, the heater core is also nestled behind it, much more towards the passenger side inner dash. More than likely, the heater core is leaking, and running out through the seams of this housing that you are seeing. If you are seeing brownish liquid rather than a nice green color, your previous owner of the truck did nothing in the way of engine coolant maintenance!
You will not be a happy camper if the leak is indeed the heater core. The price for one is cheap, under 50 bucks, but to replace it, you have to pull back the dash! About 4 to 8 hours, depending on how good you are.
There are a few Youtube vids on how to do it; one guy even cut up behind the glove box/air channel to get at the core without a complete dash removal, but still took several hours.
Mine leaked, and I simply bypassed it, by connecting the two heater hoses (as seen in your pic) together with a couple of brass 90% elbows and hose clamps from a hardware store. Don't use PVC type fittings unless they are rated for hot water, as the coolant water is hot, and will melt the white PVC stuff you'd use for sprinkler systems.
Then cap off the heater extensions coming out of the firewall until which time you think you'll need the heater for inside cabin heat. I live in Florida; it does not get cold enough for me to warrant that much time to pull away my dash to replace the heater core.
As RonD has educated me on how the radiator overflow system works, the reason why your overflow container is at its full mark, and the radiator is low, would be becauseof the leak; when the coolant reaches pressure (gets warm), it will overflow to the location of least resistance, in your case, the leak. If your system was leak free, then the radiator cap would allow any coolant to overflow into the overflow container at around 14/15 pounds; the radiator caps pressure rating. That same cap also would allow the radiator to "draw" coolant back in, if there were no leaks, but with a leak, it will again draw in air from the leak, the point of least resistance.
You will not be a happy camper if the leak is indeed the heater core. The price for one is cheap, under 50 bucks, but to replace it, you have to pull back the dash! About 4 to 8 hours, depending on how good you are.
There are a few Youtube vids on how to do it; one guy even cut up behind the glove box/air channel to get at the core without a complete dash removal, but still took several hours.
Mine leaked, and I simply bypassed it, by connecting the two heater hoses (as seen in your pic) together with a couple of brass 90% elbows and hose clamps from a hardware store. Don't use PVC type fittings unless they are rated for hot water, as the coolant water is hot, and will melt the white PVC stuff you'd use for sprinkler systems.
Then cap off the heater extensions coming out of the firewall until which time you think you'll need the heater for inside cabin heat. I live in Florida; it does not get cold enough for me to warrant that much time to pull away my dash to replace the heater core.
As RonD has educated me on how the radiator overflow system works, the reason why your overflow container is at its full mark, and the radiator is low, would be becauseof the leak; when the coolant reaches pressure (gets warm), it will overflow to the location of least resistance, in your case, the leak. If your system was leak free, then the radiator cap would allow any coolant to overflow into the overflow container at around 14/15 pounds; the radiator caps pressure rating. That same cap also would allow the radiator to "draw" coolant back in, if there were no leaks, but with a leak, it will again draw in air from the leak, the point of least resistance.
Last edited by bucko; Nov 6, 2014 at 12:56 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Windsor, Ontario
That is the evaporator housing for the A/C; at its front, the two metal lines run to the dryer, and to thecondensor, eventually to the A/C compressor. However, the heater core is also nestled behind it, much more towards the passenger side inner dash. More than likely, the heater core is leaking, and running out through the seams of this housing that you are seeing. If you are seeing brownish liquid rather than a nice green color, your previous owner of the truck did nothing in the way of engine coolant maintenance!
You will not be a happy camper if the leak is indeed the heater core. The price for one is cheap, under 50 bucks, but to replace it, you have to pull back the dash! About 4 to 8 hours, depending on how good you are.
There are a few Youtube vids on how to do it; one guy even cut up behind the glove box/air channel to get at the core without a complete dash removal, but still took several hours.
Mine leaked, and I simply bypassed it, by connecting the two heater hoses (as seen in your pic) together with a couple of brass 90% elbows and hose clamps from a hardware store. Don't use PVC type fittings unless they are rated for hot water, as the coolant water is hot, and will melt the white PVC stuff you'd use for sprinkler systems.
Then cap off the heater extensions coming out of the firewall until which time you think you'll need the heater for inside cabin heat. I live in Florida; it does not get cold enough for me to warrant that much time to pull away my dash to replace the heater core.
As RonD has educated me on how the radiator overflow system works, the reason why your overflow container is at its full mark, and the radiator is low, would be becauseof the leak; when the coolant reaches pressure (gets warm), it will overflow to the location of least resistance, in your case, the leak. If your system was leak free, then the radiator cap would allow any coolant to overflow into the overflow container at around 14/15 pounds; the radiator caps pressure rating. That same cap also would allow the radiator to "draw" coolant back in, if there were no leaks, but with a leak, it will again draw in air from the leak, the point of least resistance.
You will not be a happy camper if the leak is indeed the heater core. The price for one is cheap, under 50 bucks, but to replace it, you have to pull back the dash! About 4 to 8 hours, depending on how good you are.
There are a few Youtube vids on how to do it; one guy even cut up behind the glove box/air channel to get at the core without a complete dash removal, but still took several hours.
Mine leaked, and I simply bypassed it, by connecting the two heater hoses (as seen in your pic) together with a couple of brass 90% elbows and hose clamps from a hardware store. Don't use PVC type fittings unless they are rated for hot water, as the coolant water is hot, and will melt the white PVC stuff you'd use for sprinkler systems.
Then cap off the heater extensions coming out of the firewall until which time you think you'll need the heater for inside cabin heat. I live in Florida; it does not get cold enough for me to warrant that much time to pull away my dash to replace the heater core.
As RonD has educated me on how the radiator overflow system works, the reason why your overflow container is at its full mark, and the radiator is low, would be becauseof the leak; when the coolant reaches pressure (gets warm), it will overflow to the location of least resistance, in your case, the leak. If your system was leak free, then the radiator cap would allow any coolant to overflow into the overflow container at around 14/15 pounds; the radiator caps pressure rating. That same cap also would allow the radiator to "draw" coolant back in, if there were no leaks, but with a leak, it will again draw in air from the leak, the point of least resistance.
How much coolant does the whole system hold?
Kevin
Maybe the stuff is brown. Mine is green. Does it have a slight slippery feeling between your fingers?
My heater core was leaking and dripping from the lower half of that housing you described in the picture, almost at the same spot the A/C evaporater "pees" from. The difference of course was that it was green and sweet smelling, and not cold plain water that the evap core "sweat" produces.
My heater core was leaking and dripping from the lower half of that housing you described in the picture, almost at the same spot the A/C evaporater "pees" from. The difference of course was that it was green and sweet smelling, and not cold plain water that the evap core "sweat" produces.
I was going by the "random" picture you posted. The box in question you pointed out stores the A/C evaporator, and behind it (towards the interior) is the heater core.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Windsor, Ontario
Thanks, I have fixed the coolant leak. It wasn't the heater core luckly. Still have the other issues, I will try to do a vacuum test tonight and test the maf. Running out of time on this lol.
what you are describing might just be 2 of the encased ignition coils cross volting
what is cross volting ??? there are 3 coils encased inside the coil pack , if there is not enough polymer resin protecting the external coil windings , the resin will melt allowing the coil windings to release voltage into the air.
since there are 3 coils side by side 2 of the coils may have melted resin coatings , thus they are cross volting ( 1 coil being firing is cross volting power to the coil beside it that is not being fired )
i had seen this happen about 10 years ago , the senior mechanics were stumped until i cracked the coil pack casing apart and voila
what is cross volting ??? there are 3 coils encased inside the coil pack , if there is not enough polymer resin protecting the external coil windings , the resin will melt allowing the coil windings to release voltage into the air.
since there are 3 coils side by side 2 of the coils may have melted resin coatings , thus they are cross volting ( 1 coil being firing is cross volting power to the coil beside it that is not being fired )
i had seen this happen about 10 years ago , the senior mechanics were stumped until i cracked the coil pack casing apart and voila
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TheBearJeweler
Snapshots
30
Jul 20, 2009 10:33 AM
(907)FAN-BOY
4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech
8
Jul 28, 2005 01:18 PM
