anyone ever changed this? its the big plastic thing in the passenger side back corner of the truck in the engine compartment. mine is cracked and i believe thats what causing my ac to blow warm.

 

Yeah its not really that bad once you pull the windshield washer/radiator resivoir and plastic inner fender out so you can have room to get it out. BTW there is one nut you have to remove under the dash on the passengers side floor

 

is that nut hard to get to on the inside? will any of the components that it houses come with that? in other words, is anything mounted to the housing? also do u think that would cause me to lose refrig?

 

The evaporator is mounted on the inside and the accumulator(the round black canister) on the outside. If you are losing freon gas and your housing is cracked its a good possibility the evap is leaking. A sign of a leaking evaporator is an weird oil smell coming from the a/c and a general sign of a freon leak is a oily spot where there are any line conections or the front or back of the compressor. If you are not losing gas just blowing warm air the cracked housing is probably the problem. There is alot of heat in the engine compartment when driving and outside temps are hot. The nut on the inside is easy to get. its on the bottom of the black heater housing near the fuel reset and where the vac lines come thru. If you are going to the junk yard to get a new housing they should be the same from 96-10 and they would probably include the evaporator. They will probably want to sell you the evaporator and give you the housing.

 

Thanks for the good info John.

 

No funny smells that I know of and nothing else looks funny or anything like that.

 

Also john do you happen to know I'm installing factory cruise and I don't have a brake pedal position switch and the how to on here said something about connecting wires for that. Do u know what wires I'm connecting?

 

On a brake master cylinder with cruise there is a extra brake sensor. There should be a plug hanging somewhere in the area with nothing pluged into it. You just have to make a jumper wire for the plug. Thats what I did on my 2000 and it works normal. If you can't find it let me know and I will go look at one for the wire colors.

 

Your talking about the connector that would plug into the switch on the naster cylinder
?

 

Yes. I'm going back down to the garage, I'll check the wire colors

 

ok sweet thanks.

 

On my 99 it was attached to the plastic inner fender with one of those push in connector type deals, right below the master...
Anyway the wires are black/yellow and green/violet.

 

and i just connect those two wires?

 

Yeah on my truck I just made a jumper and left the plug on there.

 

ok cool. doign that and a clockspring is all i have left.

 

i thought my clockspring might work but appearantly i need one for cruise

 

Are you using a used clockspring? The reason I ask is it needs to be centered when installed with the wheels straight. I changed the whole column when I added cruise to my 2000 so I could get the tilt.

 

no i dont have a clockspring yet. i was testing the cruise w my clockspring to see if it woudl work but it did not, i will have to go buy one on monday.

 

i dug up some other threads on clocksprings and i saw on one where u say there is a thing on them to reset them? but basically if i remember right on mine there is an arrow and a little tab above the clockspring u line up and that is aligned?

 

yeah that lines up straight but make sure the wheels are straight when you remove it. It could be lined up but not centered if the wheels are not straight.

 

Ok I got ya thanks. U da man!

 

np

 

I am in the process of doing this same thing on my 1998 Ford Ranger 4x4. Did you have to unhook/drain the ac unit? Also it looks as though the plastic unit is in 2 pieces. I just need to remove the front piece where the blower motor bolts too. Is there anyway to just remove this half or do yo have to remove the whole unit?


Thanks,
Shane