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I bought a 2000 Ranger XLT 2 door extended cab. Its a 2.5 with 5 speed manual. But no telling what's on the clock since odometer and Speedo don't work. Ran the fault codes and got 5 different ones. Basically it was egr related and o2 sensor related which have been fixed. Turned out to be egr tube causing 4 codes. It was broke at manifold and you could not tell. Basically replaced the entire egr system top to bottom. No codes related to that anymore. Replaced o2 sensors just to have peace of mind. No codes related to that anymore. I am getting a p0451 which is evaporative system related So ordered the part for that.
My problem is related to some electrical gremlins I cannot find. Truck will start and runs like crap. It misfires and stumbles like crazy and then all the sudden it lines out and runs great. Fuel pump is good, fuel pressure is good, no codes for misfiring or anything, but I habe no idea why Speedo and odometer only work part of the time? Changed sensor and it still won't work. I cannot find any bad wiring and my scanner says gem module is 100% so I can't imagine that's the issue... I changed all instrument cluster bulbs and they worked for about 5 minutes. All warning bulbs are out again except the door ajar. The illumination lights work fine. Also has intermittently working blinker plus, the wipers only work part time. All fuses and relays are good. No parasitic loss that I can find. I only get .03 amps when I check that. I do think the alternator is bad because when I start the truck the voltage reading drops from 12.62 to 11.81 and goes down from there. So I ordered an alternator but I doubt that is the problem with other areas. Most likely why alternator went bad though. There is a short or something somewhere. I just can't find it.
Last edited by Mindcrime; May 21, 2018 at 09:34 AM.
Battery Light on the dash is the ON/OFF switch for the alternator, so if it doesn't come on with Key ON then alternator will not work..................
Fuse 15 in cab fuse box powers the Battery Light.
GEM module controls all electrics in the Cab, including wipers and speedometer signal.
BUT ignition switch under the steering column powers all the electrics when key is ON, or should.
When you rotate the key a bar inside the steering column slide the ignition switch into its 4 positions, ACC OFF RUN START
Ignition switch has 4 separate power wires(from battery), 4 Yellow wires, and when turned to RUN(on) it sends that power out on 4 separate circuits.
So one of those connections could be bad, so dash and or other circuit is not getting power when key is on.
Fuse 11 and Fuse 15 in cab should get power from ignition switch when key is on, they power the instrument cluster, lights and most gauges, they don't power Door Ajar light, GEM does that.
So I would check ignition switch, test if fuses 11 and 15 have 12v when key is turned on, if not then ignition switch would be the next place to check
Battery Light on the dash is the ON/OFF switch for the alternator, so if it doesn't come on with Key ON then alternator will not work..................
Fuse 15 in cab fuse box powers the Battery Light.
GEM module controls all electrics in the Cab, including wipers and speedometer signal.
BUT ignition switch under the steering column powers all the electrics when key is ON, or should.
When you rotate the key a bar inside the steering column slide the ignition switch into its 4 positions, ACC OFF RUN START
Ignition switch has 4 separate power wires(from battery), 4 Yellow wires, and when turned to RUN(on) it sends that power out on 4 separate circuits.
So one of those connections could be bad, so dash and or other circuit is not getting power when key is on.
Fuse 11 and Fuse 15 in cab should get power from ignition switch when key is on, they power the instrument cluster, lights and most gauges, they don't power Door Ajar light, GEM does that.
So I would check ignition switch, test if fuses 11 and 15 have 12v when key is turned on, if not then ignition switch would be the next place to check
Thats your problem, and why alternator is not charging.
Also try jiggling the key and see if power on 11 or 15 comes and goes, it shouldn't of course
Fuse 11 and 15 both get 12volts from the same wire(also fuse 19), a Light Green wire from ignition switch.
Since #11 has 12v with key on then ignition switch is working
So problem is connection in fuse box for #15
A fuse connector has a Power side and a Load side
Power side is the 12v from battery, thru other fuses and ignition switch in this case
Load side is what it powers, i.e. battery light/instrument cluster
So Power side of #15 doesn't have the 12v needed, since both 11 and 15 share the same Power wire you can put a jump wire between power side of 11 and 15, then put in their fuses.
You should then have Battery Light with key on, and speedometer
The fuse box should be pulled out and the back side inspected to see what the problem is so it can be repair properly
RonD, if all three share the same power wire, and 11 and 19 show 12 volts how can 15 not show 12 volts? Common power versus separate load... would that not dictate a separate issue? I don’t see any issue with the fuse panel or wiring. Do all three share the same ground?
Thats your problem, and why alternator is not charging.
Also try jiggling the key and see if power on 11 or 15 comes and goes, it shouldn't of course
Fuse 11 and 15 both get 12volts from the same wire(also fuse 19), a Light Green wire from ignition switch.
Since #11 has 12v with key on then ignition switch is working
So problem is connection in fuse box for #15
A fuse connector has a Power side and a Load side
Power side is the 12v from battery, thru other fuses and ignition switch in this case
Load side is what it powers, i.e. battery light/instrument cluster
So Power side of #15 doesn't have the 12v needed, since both 11 and 15 share the same Power wire you can put a jump wire between power side of 11 and 15, then put in their fuses.
You should then have Battery Light with key on, and speedometer
The fuse box should be pulled out and the back side inspected to see what the problem is so it can be repair properly
Jiggled key and nothing changed. There was a 20 amp fuse in location # 15 which should be a 7,5 according to fuse box diagram. Perhaps instead of blowing the fuse it burnt up something? I am not good with electrical. I pulled cluster to see if something with wiring would stand out and it doesn’t. Never have liked getting something someone else worked on cause you never know what they did or if it was done correctly.
Really need to get this thing going so I can get back to work.
2000 Power 2 has Ignition switch AND fuses 11, 15 and 19
If you look at ignition switch(lower diagram) you will see the 4 Yellow wires come in from the "Battery", hot all the time
The B5 Yellow wire will connect to Light Green wire(G) when Key is in RUN or START
In the middle Diagram Light Green wire(G) is used to Power fuses 11, 15, and 19
So yes, if 11 and 19 have 12v with key on, then so should 15, but it doesn't so that is the problem.
Ground wouldn't have anything to do with these fuses, a fuse box is strictly a 12volt area.
Instrument cluster Ground could be a problem, because #11 fuse is working and thats the main power for the cluster, #15 is needed for alternator to work.
Gotta have a Battery Light come on or no alternator, been that way for 60+ years on any vehicle.
Thank you for the diagrams sir. I checked to see if the power wire to 11 green/lavender had continuity to the 15 fuse power side and it does. And there is continuity on the load side yellow from fuse to the harness pin #2. So it has to be in the cluster. Upon further checking I found this. Notice the # 1 pin connector section on the receptacle of cluster. This is for the gray/black wire which is to the speedometer. I think this is my speedometer issue but how would that effect the battery light? I am thinking it’s the fusible link between battery and voltage regulator, but I have not had a chance to see the rest of the wires in the harness yet. I ordered an ammeter to see if that will find my problem without dissecting all the wiring. I also found a bad wire to the EGR pressure solenoid and ordered a new plug harness for that.
