Car started fine, as it always has previously. Drove 4 miles to get gas - filled up - but then car wouldn't start. Just got it towed home.

• Car doesn't try to start at all - not even a click
• Lights all turn on / are bright. Stereo comes on fine. Trying to jump start didn't help
• If you turn on headlights and try to start - headlights don't dim at all. Like it's not even trying to start.
• Checked / switched ignition fuse under the hood - no change.

This whole - drove fine, but doesn't seem to try to start at all now - I'm thinking:

1. Clutch pedal sensor, or
2. It has a 'theft deterrent' thingy - where if one removes this little chip, it will behave exactly like this - not try to start at all. Chip is in, backup chip swapped out - no change. So something not completing a circuit in that system

A third option, or would you expect it's one of those?

Also I'm kinda stupid - how would I go about troubleshooting this?

Thanks,

 

What YEAR Ranger and what engine?

The "Click" is from starter relay, but what and where that is depends on the YEAR

Ford doesn't use "chips" , 1999 and up Rangers had PATS, which used RFID tag embedded inside the PATS key handle, not removable but you could try different PATS keys

IF PATS is the problem then dash THEFT light will flash rapidly when you turn the key to ON, if key passes test the theft light will come on and then go out


Starter motor could be bad, there is usually no warning, just one time it no longer works, fuel pumps do the same thing, just don't startup, either could have worked perfectly 1 minute ago, and then don't

 

Thanks 95 Ranger. 4 cylinder 5 speed.

The antitheft thing is aftermarket i believe. It's a little chip under the steering column that when pulled out, prevents the car from starting.

 

You have another post that say you have a 1995 "car"????

In 1995 most starter motors have the starter relay on the starter motor
It will be the smaller cylinder on top of the motor itself
Larger battery positive cable will be connected there and a SMALLER wire will also be connected there to a smaller terminal

This smaller terminal gets 12volts when you turn the key to START, and that is what activates the starter motor
Make sure wheels are blocked and transmission is in Park or NEUTRAL

Then use a jumper wire from battery positive to this smaller terminal, starter motor should start to work
If it doesn't then starter motor is bad
If it does work then problem is in the wiring

Wiring is usually like this:
Battery----------ignition switch------------neutral safety switch-------------"alarm relay"------------------------------starter motor

 

So I jumped the starter solenoid (with a screwdriver) - and the car started. So it's not the starter, or the wiring to the starter.

It's either the solenoid itself, or the ignition signal not getting to the solenoid. (right?)

When trying to start the car normally - the solenoid doesn't click at all.

I'd like to test if the ignition signal is getting to the solenoid, before swapping out the solenoid. How does one do that, though?

 

Update - ran a jumper wire (jumper cable actually) between the positive batter terminal, and where the ignition wire comes into the starter solenoid - truck fired up.

So it's no the solenoid - it's that for some reason, the ignition signal isn't making it to the solenoid. So I'm back to the clutch safety switch, or that aftermarket security thing. Or I suppose some other random break in the wiring.

 

1995 Ranger shouldn't have a Starter Interrupt relay, which is good, just one more thing to go bad, lol.
If you have an alarm system then you may have one and it could, literally, be anywhere

There should be a Red/blue stripe wire on the starter solenoid, its by itself on a small terminal
This is the wire connected to the key switch, when it has 12volts the solenoid "clicks" and sends power to starter motor

If you use a jumper wire from battery positive to this smaller terminal, it should "click" and starter should activate, if not replace it

Pathway here
Ignition switch-----(red/blue)----------Clutch pedal switch-------(pink)---------/------------(red/blue)----------------------------starter solenoid

The clutch pedal switch connects the red/blue and pink wires when clutch pedal is down all the way, so you can't start engine "in gear"

The ignition switch is under the steering column, above brake pedal, it is a slider switch, the key slides a rod when you turn it, rod is inside the steering column, and thats what moves the ignition switch into its 4 positions

 

Right - from my earlier post - I ran a jumper from the battery to this smaller terminal - car started fine. So I think it's not the solenoid.

So it's...probably, one of these 3:

• Ignition Switch
• Anti-Theft Thingy
• Clutch Pedal Switch

The wires run from the Anti-Theft thingy to the clutch pedal switch, so the above order should be the literal path.

How can I test if a signal is getting to the wires in the clutch pedal switch? Plug an altimeter into the connectors for the red/blue and pink wires on the clutch pedal switch connector, and see if there's a reading when the car is 'started'...? <---- This is how ignorant I am.

Thanks!

 

Unhook the red/blue wire at starter solenoid, safety measure so you don't accidentally activate starter motor, while testing wires

Yes, you can use a test light or volt meter at the clutch switch

Clutch switch removal here: https://www.2carpros.com/forum/autom...2217_CPP_1.jpg

Or you can just disconnect the wiring plug from switch

Connector wiring seen here: https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/up..._193046_1a.gif

The R/LB or the White/Pink(W/PK) should have 12v with key turned to start

When switch is closed(pedal down) those wires would be connected to PK wire