Hello guys I'm a fairly new guy to working on vehicles though I can do most general mantince (oil change brakes etc) but I want to start a fairly big project and the first step would be to change how power is sent to the electrical accessories. I know in some of the newer vehicles the cigarette/12v outlets will not turn on unless the engine is running and that is what I want to do to my ranger which is a 05 stx with the 4L v6. Has anyone tried to do this or can anyone give me some pointers as to how to get started?
Thanks
The_remora

 

Do you mean when the key is in the "run" position, or the engine actually running?

 

both and when the key is in the "accessory"(the truck is a stick shift) position. Right now when i plug something in it powers up.i dont want stuff to come on without the key being in the vehicle. i will forget to turn off toggle switches and i dont want the devices i will eventually wire in to drain the battery Unless i specifically turn them on.

 

To get them to power up with the key would be pretty easy, you'd just have to wire a relay into the 12v socket positive feed, and tap another circuit that comes on with the key in both acc and run to activate the relay.

I could draw you a simple diagram for that, if you so desire.

 

I would greatly appreciate a diagram, would it be to much trouble to put in a timer so there is a delay in the 12V rail powering up our would you just recommend adding a separate toggle switch (at a later date) just for the future items that will drain the most amps?
thanks

 

I'll draw up a diagram for you, and post it when I get a chance.

I wouldn't bother with a timer. On that note, a thought occurs to me, Rangers have a power saving module (the one that shuts off the interior lights and such after 15 minutes), you could possibly use that to control the relays for your 12v accessories, but I don't know how/or if it can be tapped into.

What kind of accessories do you intend on using/what kind of power do they draw? What do you need the toggle switches for?

 

This should get you started. What you will need to figure out is if both 12 Sockets are powered by one fuse, or separate, which will dictate if you need 2 relays, or one.

You will also need to find what circuit to tap the yellow wire into. Using a test light, test the fuses in your fuse panel until you find a suitable one that powers up with the key in acc and run.

I put a picture of two ways to integrate a circuit into your fuse panel. I prefer the add-a-circuit style for higher load items. For this low current application, either will work. If using the "fuse tap" style, be sure to tap into the fused side, not the constant power side. You can also use a "scotchlok" connector tie into a wire that is keyed, but I am not a fan of this style splice. If you choose to, the stereo would be a good one to tap into.

The relay source may have 5 terminals, the extra one will be 87a. It will be a "normally closed" terminal, and you will not need it. Just leave it blank.



This is only one way of doing what you are asking. This is the way I would choose to do it, as it alters the least amount of factory wiring, and is easy to reverse if you so choose.

 

Just a couple of points and not trying to be an @ss.

The wire going to Pin 30 on the relay should be a fused line based on the amount of current/amperage the socket can handle and should or maybe best to come straight from the battery. Wire and fuse is based on current dependency of the components to be used.

Pin 87a, if you use a relay with Pin 87a and you do not use it, always cover it, a piece of heat shrink work well or an extra plastic sheathed lug. Pin 87a will be a hot with full fused amperage when the socket is shut off and COULD be shorted to ground.

The add-a-circuit Tap is ok for the actuation of the relay, pin 86, and low current applications but may not be good for the main power pin 30 dependent on the total current.

Just thinking out loud, luck on the install.

 

Constructive criticism is welcome.

The wire going to pin 30 is fused, in the stock fuse location for the 12 volt socket. It is the stock wire going to the pre-existing 12 volt socket simply interrupted by the relay, as stated by the drawing. Perhaps I could have been more clear.

You are correct about covering the leftover terminal. The relays I use have a sealed socket that snaps in and would be impossible to short out from an external source, so that was a slight oversight.

 

after seeing the activity I wish I had gotten back earlier I want to add at least 3 accessories. One is a cellphone signal booster, the other is a cradlepoint, this will enable me to plug my 3g modem into the truck and turn it into a wifi hotspot. The last thing is an AC inverter which is the item I am most concerned with pulling power when I am trying to start the engine so It is the one I would put on a toggle switch (plus I wont be using it all the time)

thanks everyone for your input

 

I would suggest hard-wiring the accessories that will be permanent in the truck. It will make for a more professional install.

If you still want to add 12v sockets, it's pretty much the same thing, just be sure to fuse the red wire accordingly.

How many watt inverter are you planning on?

 

run a dedicated power to a relay, then to the key for the coil and to the cig lighter. when the truck is on, its on. Not hard at all.

 

The inverter I was originally looking at was a 400w at 40 amps. But seeing as I can't find any toggle switches that go over 30 amps I think I will keep shopping around, plus the reviews on Amazon are pretty bad. What I liked about it was the usb ports but I have a 12v outlet splitter I think I could steal those from, and just mount underneath the 12v oultet by the radio. I get some strange interfirence when I charge my phone thought, but not other devices with the same charger so I might put them somewhere else.

I do plan to wire everything in permantently. The only big question I have about that is how do I keep the devices that run on low amperage from being fried when I start drawing lots of amps? Should I just put in seperate fuses for each of the low amp devices?

 

You can get USB charging ports that aren't integrated into an inverter.


Fuse the low current stuff separately.