Cheap fuel system
Cheap fuel system
I picked a ranger out of the woods a while back and need some help setting up a fuel system. Its an 86 2.3 fuel injected.
Neither pump works to my knowledge, but it has a mice problem so i will try running power and a switch directly to them.. if not I can replace any that I need.
The tank is rotted to bits. no good at all..
If I were to get a fuel cell, couldn't I simply mount it in the bed, run a rubber hose from the cell to the factory high pressure inline pump, and run the factory return line to the cell? I've never done anything with a custom fuel system, but this is a $200 truck and my budget for it is tight. Is it really that easy?
Thanks, Jonah.
Neither pump works to my knowledge, but it has a mice problem so i will try running power and a switch directly to them.. if not I can replace any that I need.
The tank is rotted to bits. no good at all..
If I were to get a fuel cell, couldn't I simply mount it in the bed, run a rubber hose from the cell to the factory high pressure inline pump, and run the factory return line to the cell? I've never done anything with a custom fuel system, but this is a $200 truck and my budget for it is tight. Is it really that easy?
Thanks, Jonah.
Yes, you can use gravity feed fuel line to the high pressure pump and then Return line to the new tank
Has to be gravity feed as high pressure pumps have no suction, so can't "pull" fuel out of the tank, which is why there are two pumps in the original setup
Yes, a regular rubber fuel line is fine for the gravity feed/low pressure side
Return hose also has no pressure inside
From high pressure pump, thru fuel filter and thru all the injectors/fuel rail there should be 30-40psi of pressure
The power for both pumps is on 1 wire
Pathway here
Battery---Fuel pump Fuse-------Fuel pump relay-----------inertia switch(in cab)------------------------------\---high pressure pump------------ground
.................................................. .................................................. ..............................................\-----------in tank pump-------------ground
There is a splice by high pressure pump that splits the 12volts to both pumps
In the passenger side footwell up behind glove box on the firewall is the inertia switch, has 12v IN and 12v OUT to pumps
The computer activates the fuel pump relay, but just for 2 seconds with key on, then activates it full time when engine RPMs are above 400, its a safety thing
You can cycle the key off and on and will get that 2 second run time each time
Has to be gravity feed as high pressure pumps have no suction, so can't "pull" fuel out of the tank, which is why there are two pumps in the original setup
Yes, a regular rubber fuel line is fine for the gravity feed/low pressure side
Return hose also has no pressure inside
From high pressure pump, thru fuel filter and thru all the injectors/fuel rail there should be 30-40psi of pressure
The power for both pumps is on 1 wire
Pathway here
Battery---Fuel pump Fuse-------Fuel pump relay-----------inertia switch(in cab)------------------------------\---high pressure pump------------ground
.................................................. .................................................. ..............................................\-----------in tank pump-------------ground
There is a splice by high pressure pump that splits the 12volts to both pumps
In the passenger side footwell up behind glove box on the firewall is the inertia switch, has 12v IN and 12v OUT to pumps
The computer activates the fuel pump relay, but just for 2 seconds with key on, then activates it full time when engine RPMs are above 400, its a safety thing
You can cycle the key off and on and will get that 2 second run time each time
THANKS! That confirms my idea and the wiring explanation is helpful too. I have my doubts about the relay and the rest of the wiring, and I will most likely run power straight to the pump with toggle switch on the dash.
If all goes well, I will rig up something temporary with a small gas can tonight, and get to run and maybe drive the truck a little for the first time.
If all goes well, I will rig up something temporary with a small gas can tonight, and get to run and maybe drive the truck a little for the first time.
Sounds good for temp setup
But be mindful of the down side of electric fuel pumps, they are an extreme fire hazard in vehicles
In an accident, rollover or ??, if a fuel line breaks the electric pump will just keep on pumping out fuel until battery dies, or wires are melted by "the fire" or gas tank explodes
In the early days of carbs and electric fuel pumps there was a oil pressure switch that would activate the fuel pump when engine had oil pressure, so after it was started, carbs have float bowls so have a fuel reserve for start up and that would allow this type of safety switch
If a fuel line broke engine would stall and pump would shut off
With fuel injection there is no fuel reserve, engine needs some fuel pressure to start, but fuel injection also requires a computer/controller of some sort
So most computers also run the electric fuel pump(s) and they usually have a time limit of sending 12volts to the pump when engine is at 0 RPMs, OR have a fuel pressure sensor, either will shut off the 12volts if limits are reached
Ford uses a 2 second timer, no fuel pressure sensor, if RPMs are under 400(cranking speed is 200rpm)
So if RPMs fall under 400, 12v to pump is cut after 2 seconds
And most vehicles with electric fuel pumps also have an Inertia switch, its a switch with a heavy weight inside, if that weight shifts in a sudden stop or rollover it breaks the internal connection that was passing 12volts to the pump, so power is cut, instantly
No one plans on having an accident, that's why its called an "accident", lol, and not an "on purpose", although some of my "accidents"(off road) could be considered an "on purpose" because of MY sketch judgement of the situation, lol
Anyway, point is, at least keep the inertia switch in the power pathway for the 12volt fuel pump power, once you will be putting vehicle on the road full time, it easy to do
But be mindful of the down side of electric fuel pumps, they are an extreme fire hazard in vehicles
In an accident, rollover or ??, if a fuel line breaks the electric pump will just keep on pumping out fuel until battery dies, or wires are melted by "the fire" or gas tank explodes
In the early days of carbs and electric fuel pumps there was a oil pressure switch that would activate the fuel pump when engine had oil pressure, so after it was started, carbs have float bowls so have a fuel reserve for start up and that would allow this type of safety switch
If a fuel line broke engine would stall and pump would shut off
With fuel injection there is no fuel reserve, engine needs some fuel pressure to start, but fuel injection also requires a computer/controller of some sort
So most computers also run the electric fuel pump(s) and they usually have a time limit of sending 12volts to the pump when engine is at 0 RPMs, OR have a fuel pressure sensor, either will shut off the 12volts if limits are reached
Ford uses a 2 second timer, no fuel pressure sensor, if RPMs are under 400(cranking speed is 200rpm)
So if RPMs fall under 400, 12v to pump is cut after 2 seconds
And most vehicles with electric fuel pumps also have an Inertia switch, its a switch with a heavy weight inside, if that weight shifts in a sudden stop or rollover it breaks the internal connection that was passing 12volts to the pump, so power is cut, instantly
No one plans on having an accident, that's why its called an "accident", lol, and not an "on purpose", although some of my "accidents"(off road) could be considered an "on purpose" because of MY sketch judgement of the situation, lol
Anyway, point is, at least keep the inertia switch in the power pathway for the 12volt fuel pump power, once you will be putting vehicle on the road full time, it easy to do
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