I have a 1996 Ford Ranger XLT. A while back I noticed the instrument cluster illumination lights were all out, not working. I have finally found the time to work on them and have printed out the wiring diagram and the two connectors (large and medium) that connect to the cluster. In checking the pin outs I find that the two drawings don't match pinouts. I am confident I can find and fix the problem but it sure would be a lot easier if I knew the schematics were correct.
Can anyone send me or direct me to where I can print out the correct wiring schematics and connector pinouts for the cluster?
Thanks in advance,
The Duck

 

Did you check the bulbs to see if they're burned out?

 

No, not yet. I wouldn't think all of them would burn out at the same time, but it is possible. I was hoping I could find the issue without pulling the cluster but I guess I will have to pull it. Even if I do pull it out I would like to be sure I have the correct schematics for the connectors, both overall wiring diagram and connector pinout.
The Duck

 

1996 Ranger will have a Dimmer wheel next to the main light switch
Dimmer wheel is actually 2 switches in one, if you rotate it all the way up you will feel a "click" and the Dome light will come on, also the Cargo light on the 3rd brake light if you have that option

If you have no interior lights, like radio, climate control, ashtray, or cluster lights then I would look at the dimmer

The dimmer has no 12v power for dash lights unless Main Light switch is turned to Park or Headlights, so if you are testing for voltage make sure Main light switch is ON

Main light switch------dimmer-------------cluster and dash lights, and radio back light

Main light switch and dimmer should be first stops if no dash lights at all

 

Ron, I will check that dimmer switch out. I know the interior dome light comes on when I move the dimmer switch and hear the click but no cluster illum lights. I am going to just pull the cluster after checking the dimmer switch and see if all the bulbs are blown.
The Duck

 

The dimmer wheel has 2 different 12v wires, one has 12v all the time for the dome light, the other 12v wire is for dash lights just has 12v when Main light switch is on
Just an FYI

The dimmer's 12v out for dash lights is a light blue/red stripe wire at all locations, it splits into 2 wires for the Cluster each wire feeds 12v to 3 bulbs in the cluster, cluster has 6 back light bulbs
It also splits to feed the other dash bulbs

 

Yes, I see that on the overall schematic for the three cluster connectors. The illumination lights are shown at the bottome of the schematic. The "hot" wires come in on top of the bulbs and the bottom of the bulbs are the grounds going to a ground location.
The Duck

 

Ron, I pulled the dimmer control switch. I checked pins 4 with two wires (output to illumination lamps) and 5 with one wire (power input) with an ohm meter and get absolutely no reading no matter where I turn the wheel to. So, I think I can safely assume the switch is dead meat and need to get a replacement.
Am I thinking correctly?
The Duck

 

Yes, it reads like a broken connection inside the switch

There are two 12v wires on the connector, one will have 12v all the time, for the dome light part of the switch
The other only 12v with main light switch in Park or Headlight setting
I would test those just to be sure the main light switch is able to power the dash lights, so no need to replace both

 

Ron, I forgot to mention, the dome light does come on when I turn the wheel all the way up and it clicks in place, so that tells me 12v is getting to the switch. Also, when I turn the wheel I feel absolutely no resistance in turning it, so my guess is the contact strip for the dash lights is worn out. I will order a new switch.

 

There are TWO 12v wires, one only for dome light and one only for the Dash lights and dimmer part
The dash lights gets 12v from the Main light switch

So disregard that the dome light part works, that is a different circuit

I have no doubt the dimmer wheel part is bad, I was just suggesting that you test that the main light switch is sending 12v to the dimmer when its on, since you have access to the connector

 

Yes Sir, I will do that this afternoon. I will also run a jumper from the battery + terminal to the output two wires on pin 4 of the dimmer connector and see if the illumination lights work. Will do this after dark. If they do not light up I will pull the cluster and check each bulb to see if it's blown. I have replacement bulbs.

 

Don't need to run a wire from battery positive, you will already have full time 12v on the connector for dome light, so just a short jumper

 

Ron, I finally figured out the problem and fixed it----back when I bought the current gauge cluster I took the old standard bulbs out and installed LED bulbs. I am one who, if I didn't have bad luck, I wouldn't have any luck at all, so I pulled the cluster and checked the LED bulbs individually with a 12 volt source. All checked good. I recalled that with LED bulbs they must be installed correctly as they are polarity sensetive. WELL, it appears I installed all 6 of them in reverse polarity. I didn't want to mess with them again, so I kept and installed the original bulbs. I installed the cluster, hooked up the headlight switch and the dimmer switch and SHAZAM----all lights work as they should. I guess you are never too old to learn.

 

Wait.... what? You removed the LEDs when you found out they have been installed with reverse polarity, but instead of reinstalling them correctly you just put the old incandescent lamps back in?

 

Yep, absolutely. I like things simple, less worry less hassle.

 

So simply rotating the LEDs 180° was too much work?

 

I guess I have to be more specific with the details in order for everyone to understand------I took each led lamp out and tested each one with a 12v power supply. Two (2) of the six (6) were bad. As I had no replacement led lamps on hand and I needed to get the cluster back in asap, I chose to use the old lamps that were taken out when the led lamps were installed. I tested each old lamp to ensure they were still working and installed them and put the cluster back into place.

 

Did you try reversing the polarity of the two 'bad' lamps?

 

Re-read my last post-----I took each led bulb out of the cluster. I used a 12v power source with a positive and negative lead. I clamped each led bulb in a vice so it would not move. I used the power leads and put one on each side of the bulb on the metal contact. If it lit up I considered the bulb good. If it didn't light up I switched the two power leads and tried again. If it didn't light up I considered the bulb bad.

Don't know what else to tell you.

The Duck

 

Um, no.... you did not say that. If fact, you said you never tested them.


Then you said you installed them incorrectly.

Now you're saying you DID test them. Perhaps this explains why I missed the goal since the posts keep moving.

 

Perhaps you should just not worry about it at all. I'm perfectly happy with the way it is now and if, in the future, I decide to change the bulbs to LED I will do so. I have had this cluster out so many times I can do the whole thing in less than an hour.
Thanks for your inputs and suggestions.
The Duck