Clutch biting point gets lower, harder to shift, please any insight
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From: Valley Center
Clutch biting point gets lower, harder to shift, please any insight
Hi all, I have a 2004 5 speed ford rangerThe clutch has never felt completely right as far as the biting point goes. I’ve replaced everything related to the clutch (pre bleed clutch master cylinder, slave, clutch disc, flywheel, pressure plate) and it still is hard to put into gear. I am 99% sure all air is out. It’s like the play at the top of the pedal before you start feeling resistance gets more as I use the pedal. But here’s the thing, I can kind of jiggle the pedal with my foot or hand and the bite point returns to a normal feel. However, If the truck is off I can push the pedal all day long and it will still have a normal feel. I’m thinking the piston inside the clutch master is getting kinda stuck? Wtf is going on? Too much fluid in reservoir? Is there a difference between the plastic and metal clutch master cylinders? Everything involving the clutch hydraulic system is new.
Last edited by carsonl2000; Jan 22, 2024 at 06:54 PM.
Welcome to the forum
Something ain't right, I know DUH
While it will work either way, a self adjusting pressure plate is the way to go on Rangers, pedal engage/disengage stays in the middle of pedal travel regardless of clutch disc wear
Since parts are "new", not always a good thing, I would start at the pedal assembly
The pedal assemble has bushings that can wear out, and cause clutch pedal to be loose, so pivot point changes, like what you describe, and moving pedal around restores it temporarily
Also check the master pushrod bushing where it connects to pedal assembly
Because the Master sits at an upward angle air can be trapped at the upper end and its hard to bleed out
The reservoir can't be too full unless its spilling out, lol, the brake fluid WILL eat paint
Reservoir has a vented cap so its not sealed, this allows fluid to flow into the Master when clutch pedal is up all the way in case there is a leak in the system
Try a Gravity bleed
Reservoir cap off with fluid in the reservoir
Open the bleeder on the Slave and allow fluid to flow "downhill"(gravity) from reservoir to slave's bleeder
Watch for any bubbles, 10-20seconds is long enough, close bleeder
Fluid in the reservoir is NEVER used unless there is a leak in the system, so remember the level in reservoir, take a picture, mark a line, and then check the level over the next few weeks to see if there is a leak
Reservoir level should be 1/3 to 1/2 and no higher, or it will just spill out over time
Something ain't right, I know DUH
While it will work either way, a self adjusting pressure plate is the way to go on Rangers, pedal engage/disengage stays in the middle of pedal travel regardless of clutch disc wear
Since parts are "new", not always a good thing, I would start at the pedal assembly
The pedal assemble has bushings that can wear out, and cause clutch pedal to be loose, so pivot point changes, like what you describe, and moving pedal around restores it temporarily
Also check the master pushrod bushing where it connects to pedal assembly
Because the Master sits at an upward angle air can be trapped at the upper end and its hard to bleed out
The reservoir can't be too full unless its spilling out, lol, the brake fluid WILL eat paint
Reservoir has a vented cap so its not sealed, this allows fluid to flow into the Master when clutch pedal is up all the way in case there is a leak in the system
Try a Gravity bleed
Reservoir cap off with fluid in the reservoir
Open the bleeder on the Slave and allow fluid to flow "downhill"(gravity) from reservoir to slave's bleeder
Watch for any bubbles, 10-20seconds is long enough, close bleeder
Fluid in the reservoir is NEVER used unless there is a leak in the system, so remember the level in reservoir, take a picture, mark a line, and then check the level over the next few weeks to see if there is a leak
Reservoir level should be 1/3 to 1/2 and no higher, or it will just spill out over time
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