hey i have an 86 ranger 2.9 auto i went to start it this morning and it just cranked. the fuel pump does not make and noise when i turn the key. i put direct power to the pump and it makes noise. i also just replaced the fuel pump relay. what else should i look for?
i jumped the wires at the inertia switch and the pump turned on once that was it
is there anything i can check? does the fuel pump run constantly when the engine is running or does it turn off? is there a way to hook up a switch to the fuel pump so i could override the turn key portion? if i jump the pump and start the truck it will run
Wait a minute. It primes when you jump the relay, but not with the relay plugged in? If I'm hearing that right you need a relay which you said you replaced, but that's gotta be it.
ive replaced the relay 4 times and still nothing. i am getting a good ground at the pump w/ a test light but i dont have any power to it.
i just replaced the pump and i still get nothing. ive replaced the relay too i also pushed the schrader valve on the fuel rail and gas shot out of it. is there a fuse im missing? also is there another relay that could be the culprit. thanks!
There very well could possibly be a fuel pump fuse. All i can say is start following your power wire from the distribution block back to the pump itself. I'd start at the relay and make sure you have power on both sides. Just work your way through the wire until you find out where you're losing it. Let me know what you find.
So, it starts and fuel pump runs if you jumper the big terminals at the fuel pump relay socket? That means your relay is either not getting power or ground to the relay coil. Also means that the wiring to the fuel pump is good and the inertia switch is closed (good).
Yes, the fuel pump should run constantly while the engine is running. It should also run for a second or two when you turn the key on, before cranking.
And yes, you COULD drive the vehicle with the relay jumpered or you could wire in a heavy duty switch or another relay controlled by a switch in the cabin. Just use terminal spade ends that fit in the fuse sockets. And I would throw in an inline fuse for good measure, since you would be running wire through a grommet hole in the firewall.
Could be just a bad ignition switch (do you have a heavy keyring?), a poor ground for the relay coil, etc. I don't have a wiring diagram, so it's just a general guess. But you have options (cheap ones) that will get the truck on the road till you can figure out the real problem. Shoot, you could jumper with a paper clip and pull it out every time you stop....for free.
But seriously, I believe there are only 4 wires for the fuel pump relay. Two are high current (larger spade terminals which you have jumpered to prove fuel pump runs) and the power (from ignition switch) and ground for the relay coil. I'd try to figure out which of those is the problem and fix accordingly.
A wise man always checks ALL the fuses (with an ohm meter) FIRST.
Yes, the fuel pump should run constantly while the engine is running. It should also run for a second or two when you turn the key on, before cranking.
And yes, you COULD drive the vehicle with the relay jumpered or you could wire in a heavy duty switch or another relay controlled by a switch in the cabin. Just use terminal spade ends that fit in the fuse sockets. And I would throw in an inline fuse for good measure, since you would be running wire through a grommet hole in the firewall.
Could be just a bad ignition switch (do you have a heavy keyring?), a poor ground for the relay coil, etc. I don't have a wiring diagram, so it's just a general guess. But you have options (cheap ones) that will get the truck on the road till you can figure out the real problem. Shoot, you could jumper with a paper clip and pull it out every time you stop....for free.
But seriously, I believe there are only 4 wires for the fuel pump relay. Two are high current (larger spade terminals which you have jumpered to prove fuel pump runs) and the power (from ignition switch) and ground for the relay coil. I'd try to figure out which of those is the problem and fix accordingly.
A wise man always checks ALL the fuses (with an ohm meter) FIRST.
i tried jumping the pump again but when i hooked a jumper wire between the yellow wire and the red or other the idle air control valve started clicking. what would cause that?
Hi, I too am having the same issue with my 89 ranger 2.9. I have replaced the relay also and if I put power on the red wire that is coming from the eec relay to the wot cutout relayand then to the fuel pump relay, according to the schematicit closes the relay and the truck will start and run. The red wire should be hot with the ignition switch on, but mine is not. I do'nt know where the eec or the wot cutout relays are and auto zone shows these relays but they are not available.I need to know where these other 2 relays are so I can continue testing.Can anyone help me? All of my fuses are good and I have replaced the ecm , the ignition coil and the module along with 2 out of 3 relays that are under the fuse block on the pass fenderwall,and since the replacement relay from auto zone works in all 3 relays , I have rotated the 2 new relays thru all 3 positions to make sure the relay that I did'nt replace is good. The truck truck originally stalled on 2 different occasions, but started back up a while later and the last time it stalled it would not re-start.Has anyone changed the ignition key switch and solved this problem? I know someone has already suggested doing this ,but I think the guy just got rid of the truck.I really like my ranger and will continue to search for the problem,please respond if you have gone thru this. I also dropped the tank and put power to the pump and it works fine and the fuel filter is not restricted.I ran the truck for 10 minutes 
with the relay powered closed as I stated earlier thinking that the new ecm might store a code ,but it did not.
with the relay powered closed as I stated earlier thinking that the new ecm might store a code ,but it did not.i think you already answered your question.
quote "i jumped the wires at the inertia switch and the pump turned on once that was it"
the pump only turns on for a few seconds when the key is first turned on, the computer takes over when it sees engine RPM.
sounds to me like you need a new inertia switch. or try resetting it.
quote "i jumped the wires at the inertia switch and the pump turned on once that was it"
the pump only turns on for a few seconds when the key is first turned on, the computer takes over when it sees engine RPM.
sounds to me like you need a new inertia switch. or try resetting it.
