RCD Questions
#1
RCD Questions
Two questions(so far).....
I need new front bump stops....Where can they be found? Mine are split all the way through the metal housing. Don't know why, it came like that.
Second, How do I adjust the front coil-overs? I found the tool, just undure of the process. Looks clean cut, I got the tool to fit on the top of the coil-overs. I don't know how many turns and which way to lift/stiffen the front.
I need new front bump stops....Where can they be found? Mine are split all the way through the metal housing. Don't know why, it came like that.
Second, How do I adjust the front coil-overs? I found the tool, just undure of the process. Looks clean cut, I got the tool to fit on the top of the coil-overs. I don't know how many turns and which way to lift/stiffen the front.
#2
#3
Originally Posted by rwenzing
Those are just the bolt-on factory bump stops, so you should be able to order them at any Ford dealer. Turning the adjuster clockwise as viewed from above should tighten the rings against the spring and raise the front end. Be sure to adjust equally on both sides.
It though those were the stock ones! Just didn't remember how they were on my old truck. Wish I woulda swiped those before they towed it*DOH*
What would cause them to split like that? I could understand the plastic but the metal too?!
I was thinking the same on tightening the coil-overs. Just wanted a second opinion. I didn't know if there was anything special that had to be done.
#4
#6
#7
I've got another question....I found this hunk of metal under the seat of my truck whilst cleaning it. I thought to myself "Hmmm, this looks familiar. I better keep this JIC". Well, I was cleaning the underbody earlier and noticed it was one of the rear bump stops. The steel RCD one was on the pass side but the stock rubber one was still on the driver's side. Any ideas?
Doesn't the stock rubber one go on the bottom of the steel RCD piece? That's what I was thinking. I'll get a pic here in a minute.
Doesn't the stock rubber one go on the bottom of the steel RCD piece? That's what I was thinking. I'll get a pic here in a minute.
#8
#11
That's the right orientation for the RCD/Bilstein 5100's. The rule is that you should be able to read the "BILSTEIN" logo right side up.
And no, that part of the axle should never get hot enough to melt a rubber boot on the shock.
The steel spacer is there because the compressed length of the Bilstein 5100 is longer than the compressed length of the stock Bilstein. Without it, the shock will bottom internally before the axle and that can damage the shock or its mounts. You need those spacers and the factory bump stops on both sides.
And no, that part of the axle should never get hot enough to melt a rubber boot on the shock.
The steel spacer is there because the compressed length of the Bilstein 5100 is longer than the compressed length of the stock Bilstein. Without it, the shock will bottom internally before the axle and that can damage the shock or its mounts. You need those spacers and the factory bump stops on both sides.
Last edited by V8 Level II; 09-24-2006 at 06:31 PM.
#14
Originally Posted by l2en
So I need the stock bump stops bolted to the underside of the spacers as I suspected?
some may yell at me for this but on my rcd lift when i installed it i cut the rubber bump stop in half so it was not constantly being hit, or being riden (sp?) on. it still stoped the control arm from anything bottoming out. i am glad i did after seeing what happens when you do not .... this is just an idea .... do what you want rcd did not design the bump stop to be cut in half, just something i did because i thought the rcd design sucked on the bump stop area! Edit: this is for the front bump stops
-Jared
Edit:
#16
Originally Posted by Rangerboy03lvl2
some may yell at me for this but on my rcd lift when i installed it i cut the rubber bump stop in half so it was not constantly being hit, or being riden (sp?) on. it still stoped the control arm from anything bottoming out. i am glad i did after seeing what happens when you do not .... this is just an idea .... do what you want rcd did not design the bump stop to be cut in half, just something i did because i thought the rcd design sucked on the bump stop area! Edit: this is for the front bump stops
-Jared
-Jared
#18
#19
Originally Posted by rwenzing
The steel spacer is there because the compressed length of the Bilstein 5100 is longer than the compressed length of the stock Bilstein. Without it, the shock will bottom internally before the axle and that can damage the shock or its mounts. You need those spacers and the factory bump stops on both sides.
....forgot to ask about that too....
#20
Originally Posted by l2en
Could that be why the pass side lower shock mount's bushing is fubar'd?
....forgot to ask about that too....
....forgot to ask about that too....
Originally Posted by l2en
So I need the stock bump stops bolted to the underside of the spacers as I suspected?
Looking at your pictures, I'd question whether the RCD spacers are even taller than they need to be. I had a set of those RCD/Bilstein 5100's on my truck for awhile and they are only maybe 1.5" longer than the stockers when compressed. I think they could have made the spacers a bit shorter and still not have had any trouble with the shocks bottoming.
I used these taller/wider 06 F350 stops (6C3Z-4730-A Bumper) on mine with those shocks and it seemed to work fine. The F350 parts appear to be made of polyurethane and have to be a LOT tougher than the stock rubber ones.
#21
#22
Originally Posted by jrpro130
Aren't those shocks mounted upside down? I don't think it matters but I thought the flexy stuff was supposed to be on the top???
Think of it this way. Those shocks are just like the external nitrogen chamber shocks which get mount the same way with the body mounted up and the rod/boot end mounted down.
On RCD's website
See those are just like these except these have the external nitrogen chamber and the ones in the RCD kit have the nitrogen inside the body.
#23
Originally Posted by Rangerboy03lvl2
yes on both sides, and that is how the shocks are supposed to be mounted .... as for the bump stops ford has them.
some may yell at me for this but on my rcd lift when i installed it i cut the rubber bump stop in half so it was not constantly being hit, or being riden (sp?) on. it still stoped the control arm from anything bottoming out. i am glad i did after seeing what happens when you do not .... this is just an idea .... do what you want rcd did not design the bump stop to be cut in half, just something i did because i thought the rcd design sucked on the bump stop area! Edit: this is for the front bump stops
-Jared
Edit:
some may yell at me for this but on my rcd lift when i installed it i cut the rubber bump stop in half so it was not constantly being hit, or being riden (sp?) on. it still stoped the control arm from anything bottoming out. i am glad i did after seeing what happens when you do not .... this is just an idea .... do what you want rcd did not design the bump stop to be cut in half, just something i did because i thought the rcd design sucked on the bump stop area! Edit: this is for the front bump stops
-Jared
Edit:
#24
#25
Originally Posted by l2en
Two questions(so far).....
I need new front bump stops....Where can they be found? Mine are split all the way through the metal housing. Don't know why, it came like that.
Second, How do I adjust the front coil-overs? I found the tool, just undure of the process. Looks clean cut, I got the tool to fit on the top of the coil-overs. I don't know how many turns and which way to lift/stiffen the front.
I need new front bump stops....Where can they be found? Mine are split all the way through the metal housing. Don't know why, it came like that.
Second, How do I adjust the front coil-overs? I found the tool, just undure of the process. Looks clean cut, I got the tool to fit on the top of the coil-overs. I don't know how many turns and which way to lift/stiffen the front.
To adjust the coils I jack up the front to take the weight off. It makes it a little easier to take the tires off too but you don't have to. You put the spanner wrench on the nut on top of the coils and crank it. You might need a long piece of pipe for leverage. If you are tightening/ lifting I would loosen the top nut and get it out of the way. Then put the spanner on the bottom nut and crank it until the tire drops however much you want it too. Looks like you could lift it like a 1/2 inch at least.