Hi all,

Here's what I've figured out so far. If I put the key in the ON position and short the 30 and 87 pins on the ignition relay, the engine starts up and runs just fine.

So, I replaced the ignition relay, and it didn't fix the problem.

The no start, no crank started very suddenly after a friend borrowed the truck. He said it started and ran fine for him. He parked it on the street in front of my house. It sat there for a couple days. I went to start it, and nothing.

Starter is good
the solenoid is good
the battery is good
The ignition switch should be good, right? Since it is powering the modules apparently?
All fuses look good.

Any ideas?

 

Check your battery connections, engine grounds and the connection at the starter.
The crimped terminal lugs on the battery can have acid leach into the connection as well.
This happens if someone allows crystalized battery acid to grow around the lugs.

The battery acid forms a bad connection where the wire comes in contact with the actual connector.

 

Welcome to the forum Pete

What year Ranger do you have and what engine?

Ignition relay?

EEC(PCM) Relay maybe, with key on it closes and sends power to Computer(EEC), fuel injectors, spark system, and Fuel Pump relay.

EEC relay's coil(Pins 85 and 86) has a full time ground, when you turn on the key the ignition switch will send 12volts to the coil to energize it and Close this relay passing power to above devices.
A relay coil has no polarity, just needs one end to be a ground and the other to be 12volts to energize.
So 85 OR 86 could be the Ground, there is no Ford specific Ground for any Relay coil.
Relay removed, Test if 85 or 86 is a full time ground, key off.
Then test the other one for 12volts with key on
If you are missing either relay won't close

There is also the Fuel Pump Relay
It's coil gets 12volts from EEC relay when it closes, but it's coil has no Ground, Computer controls the Ground for this relay.
Computer will Ground this coil to close the relay and send power to Fuel pump after engine starts up, RPMs above 400.
Computer does Ground this relay for 2 seconds, with Key ON(RUN) but only for 2 seconds to Prime the fuel system.
You can turn key on and off to build up fuel pressure in the system, doesn't hurt anything.
Relay removed test 85 and 86 for 12volts with key on
Testing ground on this is tricky, since you only get 2 seconds with key on, but with key on the "Ground" should show 5-7volts, this is monitor voltage from the computer, it has no amps just 5-7volts

If either of these relays fail to close then you will have a No Start
By jumping 30 to 87 on either of these relays it would allow engine to start if that relay was not closing as it should

On older Rangers the EEC relay will have a Brown socket, Fuel Pump relay a Green socket, there is also a WOT(wide open throttle) relay, Black socket, turns off AC at WOT
Later models have the relays in the engine fuse box

 

It's a 2003 Ranger Edge 4x4 with the 3.0L V6 engine.

Could it still be a relay or battery issue even though I can get it started and running fine by shorting the ignition relay?

 

Forget my battery connection theory, if it starts (like you say) by shorting pins 30 and 87, then it's not the battery or ground connections causing the problem.
Just didn't see that in your original post.

 

2003 Ranger 3.0l has no "ignition" relay, actually no ranger did, so you will have to ID this relay better.

Go here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/

Download your 2003 owners manual
page 159 has 3.0l engine fuse box diagram and names matching each number

Need that name

In 2003 there is a PATS anti-theft Starter Relay in the engine fuse box, this relay is grounded by the computer IF correct Key is used to start the truck.
So if this relay wasn't closed then starter motor would not work
BUT........jumping 30 to 87 on this relay would turn on starter motor and you would have to pull out the jumper to stop starter motor, or it would just stay on cranking the engine.

This starter relay also has a Neutral switch fail safe, this means there is either a Clutch Switch(manual), Or a Transmission switch(automatic) that will prevent Starter relay from closing if Clutch pedal is not down all the way or if Transmission switch is not in PARK or NEUTRAL.
Either of these switches can fail or get unplugged

Ford Truck automatic column shifters are notorious for getting loose, just Google: Ford column shifter loose
They all work about the same so all have similar problems, Ranger, Explorer, F-150, ect.................
A loose shifter can prevent Neutral switch from closing so no Starter Relay closing

 

Hi guys. Newbie here, diggin' up old threads.

Just FYI, I had the same issue. Check your battery cables. Mine had corroded down about 6 inches into the cable jacket.

 

How did you find that out, could you see a narrow spot in the cable or feel it with your fingers ?
Six inches is a ways down.

 

That's what she said.

I did a continuity test on the battery cables. Noticed corrosion where the terminal meets the wire.
Then I cut the wire jacket close to the battery terminal. I cut down 3" and even the center strands were corroded.
I unwrapped the wire loom and cut down another 3". Once I hit the 6" mark, I started to get bare, clean wire in the center of the strand.
Cut the loom open all the way to the starter and replaced the positive cable. Been fine ever since.

Edit: I changed out the ground cables also.

 

Never mind.