Differant way to remove T-Bars.. is there one?? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 05-17-2005
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Differant way to remove T-Bars.. is there one??

I need to know if there is a way to remove the Torsion bars that you dont have to remove the adjuster bolt. (I bent the crossmember and bent the bolt badly) So if anybody knows a way to do it, please help me out.
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Old 05-17-2005
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There is no way to do it I don't think. You can't drop the porkchop down enough to pull the bar out without getting the bolt, and more importantly, the flat plate nut, out.

Even though the bolt is bent, can you not spin it out? It shouldn't be bent ABOVE the nut, and be removeable.
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Old 05-17-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n3elz
Even though the bolt is bent, can you not spin it out? It shouldn't be bent ABOVE the nut, and be removeable.
You would think that now wouldnt ya I tweaked the x-member so bad that the bolt is bent to about 45degrees above the nut/plate...

I'v been told that once the UCA and spindle/axle are out/off that I can loosen the bolts on the LCA and it will droop far enough to get the bars out. This sound right/doable to you?

(I have a picture of the mangled bolt but its in my camera in the garage )
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Old 05-17-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rngprerunner

I'v been told that once the UCA and spindle/axle are out/off that I can loosen the bolts on the LCA and it will droop far enough to get the bars out. This sound right/doable to you?
Yes, you can if you drop the lower arm it takes the pressure off the tbar. But, I think that you would not be able to get it out from the rear if the bolt is still in the plate. Could always drill it out.
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Old 05-17-2005
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That sounds possible to me. Lot of work -- but if it's your only choice. Once you have the bar and porkchop out of the way, you should be good to do a repair.

Are you replacing the whole tower, nut and bolt? Or just getting the bolt and nut out somehow so you replace just them? Has nothing to do with your question -- I'm just curious.

And also, you can pull the tbar towards the front some, especially if you can drop or detach the entire LCA. The bar should just slide out of the porkchop then, and you can then pivot out the porkchop.
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Old 05-17-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n3elz
That sounds possible to me. Lot of work -- but if it's your only choice. Once you have the bar and porkchop out of the way, you should be good to do a repair.

Are you replacing the whole tower, nut and bolt? Or just getting the bolt and nut out somehow so you replace just them? Has nothing to do with your question -- I'm just curious.
.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=6834

So no need for a repair, and I dont need to salvage any of the parts. Both arms, spindle, and axles are coming off anyway so its not a ton of extra work, if it will work. If I can get the bars out my trusty sawzall will make short work of the bolt.. so yea.. guess it sounds like pulling the LCA will do the trick. Thanks!
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Old 05-17-2005
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Yah -- just be careful that you really do release all the bar tension off the LCA, after detaching the spindle and shock, before you remove the bolts holding the LCA to the frame, lol! I'm sure I don't need to add such a warning to you, but I'm adding it for "completeness" in the thread.
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Old 05-17-2005
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Yea good call... I can see it happening already.. lol.. Only one day in and I'v already busted two knuckles, hit my head on the fender, smashed a finger, and had to cut off one other bent bolt...this should be fun...

On a side note, I'm gonna start an progress/write up thread tonight so yall can feel my pain too.. lol.
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Old 05-17-2005
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I saved my hands a LOT by getting those "mechanics gloves" they sell. I got the "Ringers" brand "Air" model which has the faux leather palms with the tiny air cushions inside the "leather". Man, they are great!

When I did the whole axle buildup, spindles, etc. they really helped, and they are suprisingly easy to work in.
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Old 05-18-2005
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.....torch it....
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Old 05-18-2005
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No flaming!
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  #12  
Old 05-19-2005
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...Sawzall it?
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  #13  
Old 05-19-2005
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I got them out two days ago by taking the spindle off and letting the LCA droop as far as it would and the bars practicly fell out.

I thought about the Sawzall, but if there was any tension left on it, it would be hard to cut first, and I was woried about what it would do when the tension was released.

Still need to take a sawzall to the adjuster bolts, but that can wait.
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