Differant way to remove T-Bars.. is there one??
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#3
Originally Posted by n3elz
Even though the bolt is bent, can you not spin it out? It shouldn't be bent ABOVE the nut, and be removeable.
I'v been told that once the UCA and spindle/axle are out/off that I can loosen the bolts on the LCA and it will droop far enough to get the bars out. This sound right/doable to you?
(I have a picture of the mangled bolt but its in my camera in the garage )
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Originally Posted by rngprerunner
I'v been told that once the UCA and spindle/axle are out/off that I can loosen the bolts on the LCA and it will droop far enough to get the bars out. This sound right/doable to you?
#5
That sounds possible to me. Lot of work -- but if it's your only choice. Once you have the bar and porkchop out of the way, you should be good to do a repair.
Are you replacing the whole tower, nut and bolt? Or just getting the bolt and nut out somehow so you replace just them? Has nothing to do with your question -- I'm just curious.
And also, you can pull the tbar towards the front some, especially if you can drop or detach the entire LCA. The bar should just slide out of the porkchop then, and you can then pivot out the porkchop.
Are you replacing the whole tower, nut and bolt? Or just getting the bolt and nut out somehow so you replace just them? Has nothing to do with your question -- I'm just curious.
And also, you can pull the tbar towards the front some, especially if you can drop or detach the entire LCA. The bar should just slide out of the porkchop then, and you can then pivot out the porkchop.
#6
Originally Posted by n3elz
That sounds possible to me. Lot of work -- but if it's your only choice. Once you have the bar and porkchop out of the way, you should be good to do a repair.
Are you replacing the whole tower, nut and bolt? Or just getting the bolt and nut out somehow so you replace just them? Has nothing to do with your question -- I'm just curious.
.
Are you replacing the whole tower, nut and bolt? Or just getting the bolt and nut out somehow so you replace just them? Has nothing to do with your question -- I'm just curious.
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So no need for a repair, and I dont need to salvage any of the parts. Both arms, spindle, and axles are coming off anyway so its not a ton of extra work, if it will work. If I can get the bars out my trusty sawzall will make short work of the bolt.. so yea.. guess it sounds like pulling the LCA will do the trick. Thanks!
#7
#8
Yea good call... I can see it happening already.. lol.. Only one day in and I'v already busted two knuckles, hit my head on the fender, smashed a finger, and had to cut off one other bent bolt...this should be fun...
On a side note, I'm gonna start an progress/write up thread tonight so yall can feel my pain too.. lol.
On a side note, I'm gonna start an progress/write up thread tonight so yall can feel my pain too.. lol.
#9
I saved my hands a LOT by getting those "mechanics gloves" they sell. I got the "Ringers" brand "Air" model which has the faux leather palms with the tiny air cushions inside the "leather". Man, they are great!
When I did the whole axle buildup, spindles, etc. they really helped, and they are suprisingly easy to work in.
When I did the whole axle buildup, spindles, etc. they really helped, and they are suprisingly easy to work in.
#13
I got them out two days ago by taking the spindle off and letting the LCA droop as far as it would and the bars practicly fell out.
I thought about the Sawzall, but if there was any tension left on it, it would be hard to cut first, and I was woried about what it would do when the tension was released.
Still need to take a sawzall to the adjuster bolts, but that can wait.
I thought about the Sawzall, but if there was any tension left on it, it would be hard to cut first, and I was woried about what it would do when the tension was released.
Still need to take a sawzall to the adjuster bolts, but that can wait.
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