Hi all,

I'm puzzled by this one.

Yesterday everything was fine until last night when I turned the headlights on and noticed the dash did not light up. The dimmer switch was all the way turned up, so it wasn't that. On top of that, the tail lights were not on with the headlights on. The truck brake lights, blinkers, and trailer connection (was towing a small trailer) were working fine. Ended up having to drive home with hazards on.

My research points me to the headlight switch needing replacing, but a video by 1AAuto showed tearing out pretty much all the plastic housing for the radio, dash, and instrument cluster to get to that one switch.
Do y'all think this could be my solution? And if so, is there an easier way to get to it?

On a side note: my passenger window no longer rolls down. This is probably a different problem, because it's been sticking and slow for about a year, but found it weird that it completely stopped working at the same time. Just thought I'd mention it.

Thanks!

 

2003 Ranger, fuse 33, 15amp, in Engine Fuse box, powers parking lights and dash lights, thru the main lights switch

So if the fuse has been TESTED, or changed, NOT just looked at, then yes, you may need to disassemble the dash board to change main light switch or see if there is a wiring issue at the switch
Brown wire at the main light switch feeds 12v to Dimmer, and to all Parking lights, when switch is on

And you are correct, power windows don't share any wiring or power with Parking or Dash lights
Fuse 12 in engine fuse box powers BOTH windows, so if one works and the other doesn't then not a fuse issue

 

Update:

Was driving today and broke down. Battery was at 11.5v. Got jumped off, immediately died, never got past 12.5v. Got a ride to parts store and got alternator. Changed and got jumped again, didn't work. Took old alternator and battery out of truck to have them tested. Old alternator tested "no good" and battery was good, just needed a charge.

Parts store charged battery and showed good status. Got ride back to truck, installed battery, cranked up fine, still not going past 12.5v. Drove my truck to advance, they hooked up their dohingy and said alternator was bad. Got an exchanged, changed the alternator in their parking lot and it's still not charging.

So the guys say it's the alternator fuse. Owner's manual doesn't say anything about it in fuse boxes, and my limited online research on phone says ford alternators have a fusible link or something. Tried to find it, couldn't, so gave up and drove home only to run out of battery again. Had to have GF come to jump me off and wait until battery got to 13v and made it home.

Pulled in the driveway and the truck died.

Any help with fusible links? Probably gonna have to take it to the shop somehow or get it towed, one.

Also, Fuse 33 was bad visibly. Changed it with same amperage and nothing. Nothing on the dash works, none of the gauges, none of the lights, the parking lights still don't work and the passenger window doesn't work.

Was a bad day.

 

You need a Volt meter

Check fuse 11 in cab fuse box, but read on for why

Charging systems are VERY EASY to test
Key OFF
Set volt meter for DC volts
Test battery voltage, lets says it 12.5v
Put meter's black probe on alternator's metal case, a ground
Touch red probe to B+, this is the terminal on the back of alternator, stud/nut, Black/orange stripe wire
Should read 12.5v(exactly what battery showed), if not then Fusible link is bad or connection at fuse box is bad

Unplug the 2 or 3 wire connector on alternator, still using alternators case as Ground
Test Yellow wire, should be 12.5v, if not then a fusible link is blown

Test Light Green/red wire, should be 0v
Turn on the key, engine off
Retest green wire, should be 12.3 or.4volts if not then Fuse 11 in cab fuse box is blown, 7.5amp, this wire is the ON/OFF switch for alternator, ALSO powers Battery Light
Fuse 11 also powers some of the instrument cluster

If all wires test OK then start engine
Test battery voltage again with engine running
Should be 14v to 14.8v, below 15v
If not alternator is bad, period

After engine runs for 10 minutes battery should show 13.5v to 13.8v, under 14v


The B+ wire is connected directly to Battery Positive via a fusible link, this is a short wire that acts as a fuse
The larger Positive battery cable should run to the starter motor
Then a smaller cable will run to a stud/post on fuse box or inner fender, alternators B+ wire and Yellow wire are connected there as well, they share a wire, and 3 fusible links on that wire

 

Thank you for the detailed reply. I'll have a crack at testing some more!

 

So, I have zero idea how this happened, but fuse 11 was missing. It was nowhere to be found. I replaced it and charged the battery back up and it's running at 14.05v with the alternator doing it's job.

The other voltage things you asked me to check we're all good after I turned the truck off and ran through the steps.

The dash lights and gauges are working, but the parking lights are still not. I'll have to play around with the fuses some more.

Also, the check engine light is on reading a code of P0460 fuel level sensor A circuit

 

Update:

Fuse 33 under the hood was blown again, maybe because of all the other things going on and the missing fuse?

But I replaced it and everything seems to be working again with the exception of the CEL, but I'll do some more research and see what I come up with.

 

Good work

Yes, odd that that fuse was missing

P0460 means the computer is not seeing a connection to the Sender wire from the gas tank to the gauge
Is the fuel gauge working?

 

It appears to be. I had just filled up before breaking down two days ago and it's just below full.

 

I'm not sure when the CEL came on, because my dash wasn't working for a full day, so it could've been at the same time this happened or could've been after I filled up and the gauge was still where it was due to no power to the gauges.

I have a feeling it came on after I filled up and the computer noted that it wasn't lining up.

I can clear the code and just see if the gauge continues to work and/or if the CEL comes back on.

Just a theory, no research to back it up.