Electrically retarded...need wiring help - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 10-13-2006
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Electrically retarded...need wiring help

Ok, as shown in this post....

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=29892

I'm attempting to wire up a 2nd toggle switch to power my KC lights.

I have the following image from Rwenzing:



I have nothing plugged into the 86 or 87A ends. I had wired up a female connector to the LB/BK wire to connect to the 85 end, and then wired everything as shown on the image above. The result, no KC lights, the ramger OEM fog toggle still powers my fog lights and the LED illuminates. If I turn that switch off and toggle on the new switch it also illuminates my fog lights, but the LED does not illuminate.

Wire colors are as follows and in order:
OEM wire harness
1. tan/orange
2. blue/red
3. black
4. blue/black

New 2nd switch harness
1. tan/orange
2. red/black
3. black
4. blue/black

I removed the female connector I mentioned above (tied into red/black) and tried splicing red/black to blue/red. Same results, fogs, but no KCs.

Bob (rwenzing) told me to do the following:

Quote:
Here's what I would do:

White to 30. This MUST have adequate gauge wire for the load and be correctly fused near the source. 12 gauge wire would probably do it unless the wire run is very long.

Green from 87 to the KC's. Again, adequate wire gauge for the expected current.

The 5A inline fuse also connects to 87 and supplies power for the "ON" LED in the factory switch through the switches tan/orange wire.

Brown. This won't be used because it is the ground for the LED in the KC switch.

The factory switch grounds through the black wire from the harness connector and this can be teed into the black on the real foglamp switch. Same story for the blue/red night illumination wire - it can be teed to the blue/red at the real foglamp switch.
Currently the tan/orange wire on 2nd harness is sliced into the green KC wire (load wire). The only thing I can think of is to undo the slice and then splice it (tan/orange) into the white KC wire (supply).

Any suggestions? Help! LOL
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Old 10-13-2006
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The RD/BK is also dash illumination on some Fords so tying it to the LB/RD is fine. The BK grounds can also be spliced.

Make sure that you do NOT have the TN/OR wires or the LB/BK wires of the 2 fog switches wired together. All 4 of these must be independent.

After fixing the above (if necessary), then you will need a switched 12v trigger on pin 86 or the KCs will never work. This could be from the ignition switch, the high beams, the low beams, the parking lights, etc. It all depends on which modes you want to allow the KCs to operate. The 2nd fog switch would still override that trigger to turn the KCs off when desired.
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Old 10-13-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwenzing
After fixing the above (if necessary), then you will need a switched 12v trigger on pin 86 or the KCs will never work. This could be from the ignition switch, the high beams, the low beams, the parking lights, etc. It all depends on which modes you want to allow the KCs to operate. The 2nd fog switch would still override that trigger to turn the KCs off when desired.
what wire do I need to tap into for that? You mentioned it on the wiring diagram, but I don't think it was covered in the pms.

Edit:
LB/BK are sliced together (oops). Still need a switched 12v to connect to pin 86 though.

Last edited by Lefty04LevelII; 10-13-2006 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 10-13-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SniperSmurf
what wire do I need to tap into for that? You mentioned it on the wiring diagram, but I don't think it was covered in the pms.
You need to decide when you want the KCs to be allowed to work. Each option below would require that a different wire be tapped.

Whenever the ignition is on, regardless of whether the other lights are on or off?
Only when the high beams are on?
Whenever the high beam, low beam or parking lights are on?

As I said before, any of the 3 options above would be overridden when the new foglamp switch is in the 'off' position.
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Old 10-13-2006
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I'd go with either option 1 or 3.

Option 1 is the original way they are wired from KC.

Option 3 would just limit me to turning them on when the headlight system is on, which would be nice should I accidentally turn the switch on.

But ya, either of those options.
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Old 10-13-2006
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I went ahead and looked up all three for 2004. To make the relay functional, a wire needs to be connected to pin 86 and the other end tapped to one of the choices below:

Hot with ignition switch in RUN: gray/yellow at HVAC selector panel.
Hot with high beams only: light green/black wire at pin 25, brown connector, SJB
Hot with headlights/park lights: solid brown wire at pin 8, brown connector, SJB

Keep in mind that none of these have been tested but they look good on paper.
There should be enough reserve capacity in any of these circuits for the additional current load of the added relay. However, if fuse melting becomes an issue, it is possible that the tap may have to be moved somewhere else.
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Old 10-13-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwenzing
I went ahead and looked up all three for 2004. To make the relay functional, a wire needs to be connected to pin 86 and the other end tapped to one of the choices below:

Hot with ignition switch in RUN: gray/yellow at HVAC selector panel.
Hot with high beams only: light green/black wire at pin 25, brown connector, SJB
Hot with headlights/park lights: solid brown wire at pin 8, brown connector, SJB

Keep in mind that none of these have been tested but they look good on paper.
There should be enough reserve capacity in any of these circuits for the additional current load of the added relay. <b>However, if fuse melting becomes an issue, it is possible that the tap may have to be moved somewhere else.</b>
On option 1, the HVAC selector panel....is that the wiring harness on the back of the AC panel within the radio bezel?

Your last statements worry me. the 87 pin/tn/or wire is spliced into the green KC wire which is fused by KC (I forget how much, but I believe it's more than 5A). The white KC wire is also fused, so I'd like to think I'm fine there. If I do blow a fuse by tying into the SJB what would you recommend? Apparently all this seems to be a first. I'm smelling a potential sticky or some sort of mild write-up. What a PITA this has turned into! I think I need to make friends with a local electrician.

I'll have results after 8pm MST. I get off work then. Right now I have about 25 minutes left for my hour break.
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Old 10-13-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SniperSmurf
On option 1, the HVAC selector panel....is that the wiring harness on the back of the AC panel within the radio bezel?

Your last statements worry me. the 87 pin/tn/or wire is spliced into the green KC wire which is fused by KC (I forget how much, but I believe it's more than 5A). The white KC wire is also fused, so I'd like to think I'm fine there. If I do blow a fuse by tying into the SJB what would you recommend? Apparently all this seems to be a first. I'm smelling a potential sticky or some sort of mild write-up. What a PITA this has turned into! I think I need to make friends with a local electrician.

I'll have results after 8pm MST. I get off work then. Right now I have about 25 minutes left for my hour break.
You are dealing with at least 4 fuses here:
  • The large wire in the above schematic that comes to pin 30 should be sourced from a constant hot (like the battery or equivalent) and fused close to the source for safety. In this case, I believe that you are using part of the KC harness that already has a fuse, probably 20~30A.

  • The added 5A fuse is just for the small TN/OR wire that branches off to the 'ON' indicator LED. It needs to be there because a tiny wire like that should not be protected only by the 20~30A fuse.

  • The existing truck fuse for the LB/RD for dash illumination.

  • The existing truck fuse in the SJB that protects the wire that you will tap to power relay pin 86.

In all likelihood, there will be no fuse problem from the addition of that relay to one of the existing circuits. I only mention it because it is remotely possible.

Yes, the HVAC panel is the control panel for the heat/AC located below the radio.
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Old 10-14-2006
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Thanks yet again Bob!

Everything's wired up. I tied into the HVAC wire. Lights work, all is a go.
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Old 10-14-2006
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Good deal, Chris. As long as you have the circuit to the KC's equipped with properly sized wire and properly positioned and sized fuses, you should be good to go.
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Old 10-14-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwenzing
Good deal, Chris. As long as you have the circuit to the KC's equipped with properly sized wire and properly positioned and sized fuses, you should be good to go.
I wired up everything pretty much how you said. I tapped into the HVAC wire using a quick connect and 16 gauge wire. I found an in-line mini fuse (using 5A) with 12 gauge, that's quick connected into the green KC wire (appears 16 gauge, could be 18 though). The green and white KC wires are both fused ~1ft from the positive battery terminal. The in-line is butt connected to the tan/orange. Everything else is quick connected over to the other fog harness wires, with the 2nd harness LB/BK wire being female connected so it can be connected to the 85 pin on the relay.

If I have to have the radio bezel off again it'll be too soon. Of course that'll either be sunday or monday when I wire in the OHC.
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Old 10-14-2006
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Most of that sounds good. I don't understand why there are two fused wires for the KC's at the battery though.
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Old 10-14-2006
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came that way with the harness.
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Old 05-16-2008
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I'm doing the exact same install. I only want the KC lights to come on when the car is running and at least the parking/running lights are on?

IT looks like I need to find the wire to hookup the keyed 12v (what color do I need on a 2001 Ford Ranger for them to be on with the lights on) and the dash lights power wire? The rest of it looks easy. I just need the proper connection for those two Ford wires and I should be good to go.

Thanks,
Zach

Last edited by Hillyard; 05-16-2008 at 10:02 AM.
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Old 05-16-2008
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For KC operation with the head lamps/parking lamps, I would wire the hot side of the relay coil (pin 86) to the brown wire at the headlight switch.

For the dimmable switch illumination, tap the light blue/red at the radio or HVAC control panel. (The color code in the foglamp switch pigtail may be LB/RD or RD/BK depending on the donor vehicle.)
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Old 05-16-2008
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Those are the only two wires it looks like I should need, correct?

The wiring diagram really helped me out since I'm a visual person.
Thanks so much!

Last edited by Hillyard; 05-16-2008 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 05-16-2008
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To be fully functional, there need to be 4 wires to the switch and 4 to the relay as shown in the diagram in the first post. Use the correct wire gauge for the anticipated current and the wire length, then size the fuses to protect the wire.
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Old 05-16-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwenzing View Post
To be fully functional, there need to be 4 wires to the switch and 4 to the relay as shown in the diagram in the first post. Use the correct wire gauge for the anticipated current and the wire length, then size the fuses to protect the wire.
I should have been a little more clear...only two Ford wires I would need. I printed the diagram out and have written everything out. It's easy when you know where to connect to and I plan on using fuses and the correct wire sizes.

I will attempt this in the next coming week or two and will be sure to post pictures.
I'm hooking the KCs up on the light bar soon but still working on my dash surrounding the radio.


Thanks again.

Last edited by Hillyard; 05-16-2008 at 10:20 AM.
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