I just put a new headlight switch in and my taillights taglights parking lights now work when they didn't before new switch. I still don't have any headlights or dashlights. Fuse 33 is not getting any power to it. I used a two wire jumper in that fuse spot and the headlights came on . Fuse 4 and 8 are good. Any idea why fuse 33 in interior fuse box not getting power?? Im stumped. Oh and when I jumped 33 no dashlights also

 

Fuse 12 in the engine fuse box powers the head lights

That 12v goes to Main light switch and then to the Multi-function switch(turn signal stalk) and then out to the headlight fuses

Fuse 4 and 8 should have 12v with Main light switch on but thru Multi-function switch, these are only for Low Beam head lights
Fuse 33 should have 12v only if multi-function switch is push forward for High Beams, or pulled back for "flash to pass"

So could be multi-function switch or fuse 12 in engine fuse box is bad


The dimmer wheel is a common part to fail when dash lights stop working, it gets 12v from main light switch when its in Park or Headlight setting

 

Im going to change the multifunction switch and the dimmer switch and see if that fixes it. That also explains when I jumped the 33 fuse slot that hlights came on with high beams. When I had it jumped the high beams were on but when I clicked combination switch the turn blinker switch they didn't change at all. So if underhoid fuse is working that feeds the headlight switch correct and if I have taillights taglights and parking lights the headlight switch is functioning correct? That leads me to think the multifunction switch is bad if all that true.

 

Park lights use fuse 11 in Engine fuse box, also powers dimming module with Park lights on

If you have keyless entry(fobs) then Park lights also have a relay, so lights can be flashed with lock and unlock

page 2 has the wiring you need, has BOTH versions, with and without keyless entry

 

So I have power coming to headlight switch on tan white wire. But I have nothing on red yellow wire going to combo switch. I can put a jumper on white black wire. To red yellow wire and I have headlights with both hi and low beams working. When turn on hl switch there is no power coming out of red yellow but I have taillights and side marker lights burning. Should inhave power coming out of any other wires coming out of headlight switch?

 

Found this for 2000 Ranger headlight switch: https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/up...titled_444.jpg

Has 2 "hot at all times" wires
5 is from fuse 11, park lights
6 is from fuse 12, head lights

Then
2 Out to Head lights
3 Out to Park lights, and dash lights(to dimmer wheel)
9 back light for switch(from dimmer)

Not sure about 4

 

So I got a used switch from a salvage yard my friend works at and no power coming from red yellow when I turn switch on so this headlight switch is bad to? So if I buy a new switch it should send power to the red yellow and powering the column stalk. The headlight switch does feed power to the taillights side marker lights and dimmer switch as all these have power but the combination stalk doesn't have power. I can jump the the red yellow to the black white and then the stalk has power and functions with working headlights on both high and low beams. Would it be ok just to use a wire splice to make the stalk get power. I hate to go buy a new switch then have no power to stalk because im not sure electronics can be returned to parts store.i would think something internal in the switch is failing since all other headlight switch functions are working. What you think I should just buy a new switch?

 

Yes, as long as there is 12v on the #6 wire coming in from fuse 12, there should be 12v going out on #2 when switch is turned all the way to Headlight

Easier to test with ohm meter, i.e. 0 ohms between 6 and 2 when switch is on

And it could be a corroded(bad) connection on #6 wire from fuse 12
Test exact voltage at battery, says its 12.5volt
Then test exact voltage at #6 wire, should be EXACTLY the same, if its a bit lower then there is an issue with that wire


Volt meter draws virtually no AMPs, headlights draw alot of AMPs
So common mistake made when testing voltage at the end of a wire is that its OK if you see any voltage, not so
Need to see battery voltage exactly, any drop can/will mean corrosion or similar issue on that wire
And voltage can drop to under 5volts when AMP draw goes up

If you are testing Key on wire then you need to test battery voltage with Key on first, as it can be lower than key off

Since you are getting no volts thru switch then not you issue, just a heads up