Help!!! 96 Ranger 2.3 Rattling in idle, stalls - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 08-22-2010
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Help!!! 96 Ranger 2.3 Rattling in idle, stalls

Hello Guys,

I have a problem with my little truck:
-First when you attempt to start it it stalls immediately
-After few attempt and constantly pumping gas it will start and idles very rough (after a warm up), Backfires and exhaust gets cherry red
- have p1504 and p0122 codes

what I've done so far:
- New fuel filter, pressure is good
- Checked all Fuses
- Replaced timing belt 3 times
- checked the vacuum the best I could
- checked wiring from TPS and IAC to PCM
- Checked output on TPS (left wire 5V, middle -1.0V -closed, 4.5x - full open, right is nothing 0)

simmilar to this

I've spent countless hours online and in the garage trying to figure it out. Would appreciate any input.

Last edited by mikef; 08-23-2010 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 08-22-2010
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recheck your timing marks on your t-belt
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Old 08-22-2010
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def sounds like a timing issue.....

check the belt.....make sure your timing is correct
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Old 08-22-2010
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I did 3 times. That is what I thought first.

I removed bottom pulley and made sure it is seated properly. There is only one way to seat it. Then I was using the engine block marks instead of belt cover marks. Rotate twice using the wrench, then rolled back in 4th gear. The crankshaft pulley was only half-tooth off, Oil pump and camshaft right on the mark.

Last edited by mikef; 08-22-2010 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 08-22-2010
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thats you problem, the crank needs to be dead on, your cam is prob like 1-2 teeth off
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Old 08-22-2010
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My bad I meant the camshaft is half tooth, while oil pump and crankshaft is DOC


Now I am looking at the IAC valve it looks like the rubber valve inside got stuck on closed. Is there anybody who can let me know how it should work?

I connect it straight to the battery (since reading on the harness was 12V) and can feel solenoid move (tried to switch + and -), but the rubber valve is still between two holes. I am unable to move it with screwdriver
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Old 08-22-2010
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if the valve wont move with a screw driver, replace the iac
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Old 08-24-2010
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Here is update:
Changed 1st Coil pack
replaced IACV
removed Exhaust
Truck starts fine, but shuts off after 1-2 sec
Any Ideas? I am stuck and cannot think anything but vacuum or PCM
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Old 08-24-2010
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unhook your maf and try starting it
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Old 08-24-2010
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Dammit!
brb
autozone time
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Old 08-24-2010
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I guess will wait till tomorrow, $150 at AZ
thank you ccosgrove71. I unplugged the MAF and truck started. It was trying to stall, but after it wormed up, was running allright.
One thing that still bothers me is exhaust is still red. You think it is injector got stuck open?
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Old 08-25-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikef View Post
I guess will wait till tomorrow, $150 at AZ
thank you ccosgrove71. I unplugged the MAF and truck started. It was trying to stall, but after it wormed up, was running allright.
One thing that still bothers me is exhaust is still red. You think it is injector got stuck open?
try cleaning your maf out first, and look at your cat to see if it looks melted.
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Old 09-04-2010
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Ok I guess I need to do the followup and share the knowledge!

First - Thank you for your help and time that you invested in my problem. I really do appreciate it.

And now solution to my problem: Since truck will run just fine on break cleaner and exhaust gettin red hot after 1-1.5 min we decided that it was timing. After another attempt to change timing belt my buddy pointed at the crankshaft pulley. The notch was 3 times bigger than alignment pin, so the knock sensor did not know which position the engine was in.

I will skip my journey to the junk yard, just wanna let you know that advance and autozone don't have those pulleys for 4cyl, but they have for V6.


PS anybody needs a computer? F67F-12A650-VA writing ZZQ0
)))))))
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