Installed new stereo, no running lights, gauge cluster - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 04-02-2011
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Installed new stereo, no running lights, gauge cluster

Alright so first, hi everyone. This is my first post here and I need some help. I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 4.0 Super Cab

I installed a new stereo myself and did all the wiring myself by looking up diagrams and splicing all the necessary wires to my deck. After the install I had no running lights and the lighting for my gauge cluster were out. I first thought it was the fuse, so I look in my manual to see which fuse it was. There are 3 different fuses that sound like they could be the one. #11 says Instrument Cluster, Daytime Running Lights (DRL), RABS Resistor. #26 says Battery Saver Relay, Electronic Shift Relay, Interior Lamp Relay, Power Window Relay, Electronic Shift Control Module, Dome/Map Lamp, GEM, Instrument Cluster. #33 says Headlamps, Daytime Running Lights (DRL) Module, Instrument Cluster

So first of all, this is confusing to me because three of the fuses share the same instruments on that circuit. Anyways, I replaced all of these fuses and no luck. I did a continuity test on all of the fuses (ignition off, battery still connected) and fuse #11 has no continuity across the back of the fuse, all others do. That's mystery #1.

Also, when I plug fuse #11 in (ignition off, battery connected) I hear a clicking every time it's making a connection, like a relays' plunger is activating and it sounds like it's coming from the little black box inside the stereo/center console cavity on the right hand side (pictures below). So I thought maybe this relay is activating and causing the normally open state to reverse (because of a grounding problem somewhere??) to normally closed, therefore not allowing current through.

So then I looked through all of the wiring I did on the stereo and looked through the MANY different diagrams on Ford Ranger stereo diagrams (it seems like the 2000 model diagram will be different in every source I found) and I tried to ring out (continuity) all of the suspected grounds (pictured below in my hand, these three wires rang out to ground, wierd?) and make sure they weren't crossed up with something they shouldn't be. I then hooked the stereo back up and this time tied ALL grounds together.

It was also recommended that I replace the Stop Light Switch on the brake pedal, so I did, and nothing happened. I removed the tail lights and checked voltage, nothing.

Maybe I'm just digging too deep into this, could there possibly be a simpler explanation? I have a fix it ticket for this that is already past due and I don't have the money to take it to a shop right now. I really appreciate any help you guys could offer!
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Old 04-02-2011
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Old 04-02-2011
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why did you cut the harness???
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Old 04-02-2011
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Because I had a no name stereo I was trying to put in and I couldn't find an adapter for it. I have actually always spliced stereos, seems cheaper, easier and faster when you have the right diagram. I didn't realize that this specific truck would have different diagrams everywhere I looked.
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Old 04-02-2011
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Here's your first mistake, cutting the harness. An adapter kit is like $20 from Wal-Mart. In my opinion, spending $20 for a kit is much better than cutting the factory harness and now having to deal with this problem.
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Old 04-02-2011
04_xlt_4.0_4x4's Avatar
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x1000000000000000000000000000 never cut the factory harness.... that just looks like a cluster f of a mess.... fine a diagram online and get the wiring color code for that harness and hope you can find it. if nothing else i hope you left enough room on the factory harness where you can recoonnect it and buy the right items
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Old 04-02-2011
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Why do you have wires attached to the antenna plug? If you would have kept the factory harness and bought the adapter it would have been just matching up wires by color pretty much. Which is much easier.

Undo what you have done, re-attach the factory harness if you can, and do it right.
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Old 04-03-2011
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The black box houses the bell/buzzer for door open. No cont. on fuse , fuse is bad.
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Old 04-03-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RZacer View Post
The black box houses the bell/buzzer for door open. No cont. on fuse , fuse is bad.
Thanks for the replies.

No continuity after I plug it in, which is why I say it's weird. As soon as I take it out there is continuity and I even switched it out with new fuses, but i don't know that probably has nothing to do with it. And there are no wires spliced with the antenna plug it must be the picture at that angle.

I couldn't find an adapter for this stereo http://www.amazon.com/VR3-VR500CS-BT.../dp/B001F8NL8O and thats why I cut the harness.
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Old 04-03-2011
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i had this happen in my 99 and found out that it was a ground short from a dimmer wire in the harness. check to make sure nothing is touching that shouldn't be. it was a simple fix but thenagain i had a blown fuse too.
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