Hello all, just finished revising this wiring diagram and thought I'd leave it here in the off chance it may help someone.
My father purchased a 1999 Ford Ranger and in the process of a simple door swap, we found ourselves staring down the barrel of "do we drill out the rivets and put a crank window in this XLT door, or do we upgrade both doors?" A week and a half and three trips to the junkyard later, hands full of wires, relays, and electrical tape adhesive, and mind full of soup, we got ourselves some working power accessories.
I saw on this forum that a manufacturer used to sell a simple upgrade kit, which would be nice, but I couldn't track it down.
There are supposed to be 2-3 additional relays and a lot of connections to the interior computer (Generic Electronic Module), but I wasn't about to make a fourth trip to the junkyard and try to splice in a bunch of wires I had already mistakenly cut, just to increase the complexity of my wiring (also, I was tired.)
As a result, ALL of the accessories (power locks, power windows, power mirrors) have always-on power, since I wired them to their original fuse locations.
For power windows, in my base model, I found a mega fuse in slot #4 and wiring running to the firewall plug. "All" I had to do then was place a wire and connector in the firewall plug inside the car and route that power to the blue and black wire for my window power. If you seek out the original diagram, you will find the power wire running to a relay, which has computer-controlled ignition-on power, and it then powers the blue wire, which also goes other places. I bypassed this relay, though if you have battery drain or security concerns, adding a relay in would be a simple way to reduce risk. The other relay or seven I bypassed for the power windows controls the one-touch down feature, which we honestly didn't care too much about with this upgrade. It can certainly be done, though the research I did indicated that you need the matching GEM to make all this things function as designed, and again, just too much effort for a low-stakes upgrade. I had to loop two wires in the second harness on the driver's door that originally fed out to a relay for sensing reasons. If you wanted to make this project even tidier, you could loop those wires before they leave the door and place the blue/black wire into the main door harness, which had a couple empty spaces in it.
Power locks retained all their normal wiring, simply left two taped-up wires that are supposed to go to a remote opener (which could be used if you have an aftermarket one, I suppose). The in-dash fuse block in my base had power provided to the fuse lug, just had to add the other leg and pop a fuse in.
Power mirrors were much the same. Power provided to fuse block, added a leg and a fuse and away we went.
If you have any questions, ask them soon. Less than a week since project completion and I'm rapidly forgetting everything involved with the project.