If I'm reading that right, it's something like this:

multiswitch ----> SJB ----> low beams/high beams

Couldn't this work?

multiswitch ----> SJB ----> high beams
----> relay ----> low beams

If it means that my high beams and low beams will be on at the same time, that is no problem, I have a dual bulb setup which is capable of working that way.

 

That dealer is now rather inaccessable, as I've moved far from that area. That's why I'm looking to go through all of this... plus I like to make relatively easy projects for myself to get out of the house.

 

Bob wouldn't he have to run new wires from the multi switch for both the high and low beams down to the headlights, basically creating a new head light circuit.

 

Going only from the diagram, I don't see why it wouldn't work as long as you properly size the fuses/wires/relays. Keep in mind that I have never worked with HIDs and have no way to test your idea.

 

Good to know. Is there any information out there on which could help me figure out the relay and fuse I would need? I've had some training in electrical equations, so I could probably figure things out.

 

Calculate the total current that will be expected in the circuit. Choose a relay current rating that will comfortably exceed the expected current draw. Size the wires to the expected current, length of run and wire material (usually stranded copper). Then size the fuse small enough to protect the chosen wire gauge, doublechecking to be sure that its rating exceeds the anticipated current.

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

 

Thanks Bob, does this process sound about right to you?

Turn my low beams on and take a voltmeter to the + and - of the wires going to the bulb.

While unplugged, take the resistance over the low beam of the HID system.

Take the voltage/resistance and I have the amperage I need to base my relay and fuse setup.

How much higher than the anticipated amperage should the fuse be?

 

I would calculate current based on the system voltage and rated wattage from the HID manufacturer. The resistance may very well be different hot and cold, for example.

I would like to see somethng like 20% "cushion" on the fuse size assuming that the wire gauge and run are properly protected. If not, it's easy to simply upsize the wire to allow the use of the next larger fuse step.

 

To be honest, it is an ebay special. There is no manufacturer's name, no information, only one sheet with a very basic diagram of how to set them up. I will try to contact the seller, but it looks like I'll have to test everything while it's hot.

 

Been having the same issue with my 04 running HID's up here in Canada. Real PITA.. Just learned to deal with having the ebrake on slightly to cut the DRL's, but if this ends up working, i'll definitely give it a shot!
Good luck!

 

The easiest solution is to turn your headlights on as you start your truck and off when you kill the engine. Got to be better than seeing the ebrake light or hacking up the harnesses. You should find a dealer and ask the head tech to reset it. If you ask management they might be concerned about liability even though its not required. That's what the manager told me when I asked him to disable the tpms (not required in Canada)

 

Hey guys Im having a pretty weird electrical problem in the good ol 99 ranger I own. I did a instrument cluster swap from the junkard from a non tach cluster to a sport trac white faced cluster from an explorer. I removed the needles from the speedo on both of them and put the motor from the orignal tach to the sport trac tach to maintain the same number of miles. I did this almost 3 years ago. It has been working great until all of a sudden the speedo and Rpm gauges are now twitching. Its a very odd situation because if I tap on the plastic cover they place themselves where they are suppose to be. I have no idea even where to start with this. Im asking for any suggestions. I have not tried the ground to medal thing yet though, but i doubt thats what it is. I personally believe the motors are going bad but yet that seems wrong too. They wouldnt go back to the right place if they were bad. Let me know if this happened to you and you figured it out !!!

 

93 ford ranger us version want add daytime running lights i found relay under driver side dash says ford / canada on it but no drl module under hood on driver side at rad support