I put a new m5r1? In my 5spd 94 2.3 2wd. Ran fine for 5 hours without speed sensor cable plugged in. Put old vss sensor in and put the cable in and it went into limp mode. Got codes for engine coolant temp sensor and dpfe sensor. IDK what's going on please help!

 

Welcome to the forum

1994 Ranger used a speedometer cable for the dash, and used a VSS for the computer and cruise control
It was located on the transmissions tail shaft
Only M5R1 transmissions 1988 thru 1997 had the speedometer cable/VSS setup, in 1998 and up it was dropped

Any cable/VSS setup should work fine in your 1994, looks like this: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...peedsensor.gif
And this with Driven gear attached: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...s_withgear.JPG

Has the speedo cable hook up and the 2 wire VSS plug in



Need the EXACT Codes to help with those, full list for 1994 seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...gitcodes.shtml

And did you get this code?
452 (M) Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) problem

 

No I didn't get the vvs code. Please help!

 

I should've given a longer response maybe? I appreciate the help. The vss was different. Ran fine before I put the old vss back in with it just being installed an wired in. Without the cable in. When I took the vss off that came with it and put the original on I caught filsafe mode

 

What year was the new M5R1 from?

Has to be 1988 to 1997

There were no changes in VSS sensors in those years
Unless the sensor is bad then the one that came on new trans would work

And the 1994 speedometer was working via the cable prior to you swapping out the Driven unit?
And this is on the tail shaft of transmission, drivers side

This has nothing to do with rear axle sensor, that was also called VSS but only used in 1998 thru 2000 for speed, its an ABS sensor

Not sure what you mean by "limp mode", that applied to Automatic transmissions usually, not manuals
And was related to shifting gears automatically
If there is an engine running issue it wouldn't be related to VSS, except for REV limiter if speed is under 5MPH

 

I don't know what year the new trans was from. Yes the speedo worked prior. It has a code for failsafe mode . It's only firing on 2 cylinders. I replaced the lugs wirea and packs. I think I'm going to junk it.

 

So code 998?

Unhook either battery cable
Unplug the VSS
And the ECT sensor and the DPFE sensor, the other codes you have
Also include the Code numbers in posts as they can be different than what you will find in Google searches, so we will both be on the same page

Battery needs to be unhooked for 5 min at least
Hook it back up
Start engine
Should run OK now after the reset
But CEL will be on because of unplugged sensor, but should run normally


Yes, 25 year old vehicles can be a challenge to keep running, not meant for everyone
It would be worth more if it was running well when selling it/junking it, but I understand the feeling

 

So I unplugged the sensor with the codes and the battery. I had the exhaust unplugged after the header because I thought my cat might be clogged. Rehooked that up. And still same issue. It used to start up and run ok for a second before failsafe mode would kick in. It even would kick off and run fun for a couple seconds sometimes. I just don't know now. Bad ground on the starter? Replaced the starter.. I don't know what happened. Icm? Pcu?

 

I think someone put sugar in my gas tank. Could low fuel pressure be causing the dpfe sensor and ect codes?

 

What are the exact code numbers you have?

No, sugar in the gas tank won't cause ECT or DPFE codes, or any codes really, just no start

Only sensor that can cause no start is Crank sensor, bad/leaking EGR Valve can cause rough running

From your questions I think you are just learning how these systems work, not an insult just an observation in trying to assess the running condition of the engine and possible problems

Most common running issue with 1989-1994 2.3l dual spark would be the ICU(ignition control module), the spark module located on the front of lower intake manifold
These need a good ground from the 3 bolts that holds it to the intake

If you think you have some bad gas then use a hose to siphon out as much as you can, then pull off the fuel filter(replace it), while its off put a bowl down and cycle key on and off to pump out remaining fuel and look in the bowl to see what it looks like
Good gas is transparent, cloudy gas is most likely bad

 

Dude you're the man.
I need to reread the check engine flashes to get the codes again. I'm just learning, I'm 35 I just got my license back after 20 yrs. I know very little about engine systems. I take no offense. I'm going to do the egr valve. I did break the little hose that comes off the egr valve. And the little hose that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. That happened after the problem started occuring. They were both extremely brittle when I went to check them. They snapped with barely any resistance. I will check the fuel and get the exact codes tomorrow morning. Thanks again Ron D!

 

I'll do the reground on the icm tomorrow afternoon.

 

@Sk8rop Is there any reason you won't give RonD the actual code number(s)?

Right now you are just guessing at things and getting frustrated.
Hooking up the VSS and putting the speedometer cable in are not going to cause the problems you are having. You may have accidentally unplugged something else while doing that, and that's what's causing your problems.

 

I just lost the paper I had written them down on. I need to get another paperclip to jump the eec test and rewrite down the flash counts of the check engine light .
its not that i won't. I was just really hungover today.
I can't figure out what I might've unplugged. I did the clutch and slave and master on this before already.

 

Yes the broken nipple/port on EGR valve would cause the DPFE code, because computer couldn't operate EGR Valve

Broken nipple on FPR wouldn't cause a code but would be a vacuum leak unless you plugged the hose that was connected to that nipple/port

 

Yea I plugged it. The problem occured before I broke it. But I understand a little more now thanks

 

I didn't check the codes again sorry. I remember one was 224. I did the plugs wires and coils when I bought it 20k miles ago. I did the coils again when this started just to be safe. I remember one code was 224. So I looked at the icm where the bolt grounds it out. It's rusted out completely can't get a socket to hold on it ( without taking off the power steering and hammering the next smaller size on ) so I'm thinking that's what I'm supposed to do? Because if I run a ground to the wire it connects to, that won't do anything right? I was thinking about trying to break the bolts that hold it on and drill new holes in the heat sink but there's not much room ( or meat on the pad) for that

 

Just 224 and 998 while running, 116 while kiefI found both spout test or whatever and connected them before when this started and nothing changed also

 

224 (M) Failure in ignition coil primary circuit - Ignition Systems

116 (O,R) Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT

998 (R) Did not pass Key On Engine Off test yet (Get 111 in KOEO first)

224 is the reason engine is not running well

116 is not a concern as far as engine operation, at this time, you will need to check ECT sensor's wiring and most likely replace ECT sensor
998 is also not a concern as it should clear after 224 is solved


224 in this instance is most likely the ICM wiring issue or module failure
You will need to get the rusted bolts out..............so will take some time


Cutting or drilling off the heads of the bolts that won't come out is often required so you do need some room to do the work
It is what it is

The ICM must be grounded to work well

 

I wired a ground to the top left, no change. Could I just have a bad thermostat? The ect code not knowing when my engine is cold or not causing the egr to vent? The truck runs fine when it's freezing cold.

 

Most likely the ICM, starts to fail when it warms up, which is quite common, its located behind the fan and on the cold lower intake because it runs HOT

Shut off engine after it starts to misfire
Try pouring cold water on the ICM, and let it sit for a few minutes then restart to see if it runs OK again for the few seconds

There are no sensors or systems that can cause what you describe, even the computer for the fuel injection is not a likely candidate
It reads like a spark issue and that's the ICM

 

Wish I had a place to work on it at. I had to junk it. It really sucks after putting all tht work into it. Doing the icm would've been no big deal even if I had to pull the power steering. It's really cold out. I needed the money for a hotel and a flight to Florida. But I'll be looking for another 94 4cyl 5spd in a few weeks after I get my **** straight again. Thanks for all the help Ron D

 

Good luck on your trip, and thanks for the update