No Reverse lights
No Reverse lights
My reverse lights use to work and then I would notice that sometimes they didnt. They’re not working at all now. The fuse is good, the bulbs are good,and the switch on the transmission is also good. Bought a 12volt test light and found out I’m not getting power to the reverse lights sockets. Wanted to start from the beginning and work my way back to them so I tested the fuse panel and I’m not even getting power to the #26 fuse for the reverse lights. Any suggestions?
What year Ranger?
Automatic or Manual?
Reverse switch and fuse will only have 12v with key on regardless of year
The ignition switch usually has 4 wires OUT that each powers 3 to 5 fuses in the cab fuse box, so if ignition switch was the problem there would be other effected systems, with no power
A fuse slot will have 2 contacts, Power and Load
OHM Meter is better but you can use a Test light to see if wires are OK
Ground the Test Light
Pull out fuse, #26 in your case
Turn on the key
Test both contacts, if light comes on then thats the Power contact, other one is the Load
If no light then you are correct there is no 12v at that fuse and there should be with key on
It could be a fuse box problem or ignition switch problem
Try testing the same way on fuse #22, pull it out and see if one contact has 12volts, test light lights up, key on
To test wire and switch, find live 12volt source in fuse box.
Connect test light to it
Put transmission in Reverse
Touch other lead on test light to Load side of #26, if you don't know which is Load try both, Power side shouldn't cause test light to light up, Load side should get light to glow, not full bright
Check that reverse lights are on with test light connected to 12v source and Load side of #26 slot, test light is acting as a fuse
If test light is at Full brightness then could be a short to Ground in wiring from fuse box to tail lights
Automatic or Manual?
Reverse switch and fuse will only have 12v with key on regardless of year
The ignition switch usually has 4 wires OUT that each powers 3 to 5 fuses in the cab fuse box, so if ignition switch was the problem there would be other effected systems, with no power
A fuse slot will have 2 contacts, Power and Load
OHM Meter is better but you can use a Test light to see if wires are OK
Ground the Test Light
Pull out fuse, #26 in your case
Turn on the key
Test both contacts, if light comes on then thats the Power contact, other one is the Load
If no light then you are correct there is no 12v at that fuse and there should be with key on
It could be a fuse box problem or ignition switch problem
Try testing the same way on fuse #22, pull it out and see if one contact has 12volts, test light lights up, key on
To test wire and switch, find live 12volt source in fuse box.
Connect test light to it
Put transmission in Reverse
Touch other lead on test light to Load side of #26, if you don't know which is Load try both, Power side shouldn't cause test light to light up, Load side should get light to glow, not full bright
Check that reverse lights are on with test light connected to 12v source and Load side of #26 slot, test light is acting as a fuse
If test light is at Full brightness then could be a short to Ground in wiring from fuse box to tail lights
Last edited by RonD; Oct 8, 2018 at 02:02 PM.
Well I tested the fuse slot for power and this time my test light actually lit up red. Then I made the test light a fuse like you said and it lit up green when I would shift into reverse. Sorry, it’s 1996 xlt 5 speed. After my test light was working this time around I stuck the fuse back in and the reverse lights were working. Drove it home and wanted to check and see if they were still working and they weren’t working again. Pulled the fuse in and out a few times and jiggled the fuse box and they start working again. Sat and shifted into neutral then back to reverse a few times and they still worked. Pulled the fuse out and stuck it back in and they still worked. Now tomorrow at some point they’ll probably stop working again. I think I have a short behind the fuse panel or something.
Good work
Thanks for the update
Yes, reads like you have a loose wire at cab fuse box or behind it where you "jiggled" the wires
In 1996 fuses #26 and #22 do use same wire from ignition switch, test #22 and jiggle wires with Key On, see if it also looses power like #26 did.
Diagram below has wiring for those fuses
Thanks for the update
Yes, reads like you have a loose wire at cab fuse box or behind it where you "jiggled" the wires
In 1996 fuses #26 and #22 do use same wire from ignition switch, test #22 and jiggle wires with Key On, see if it also looses power like #26 did.
Diagram below has wiring for those fuses
Good work
Thanks for the update
Yes, reads like you have a loose wire at cab fuse box or behind it where you "jiggled" the wires
In 1996 fuses #26 and #22 do use same wire from ignition switch, test #22 and jiggle wires with Key On, see if it also looses power like #26 did.
Diagram below has wiring for those fuses
Thanks for the update
Yes, reads like you have a loose wire at cab fuse box or behind it where you "jiggled" the wires
In 1996 fuses #26 and #22 do use same wire from ignition switch, test #22 and jiggle wires with Key On, see if it also looses power like #26 did.
Diagram below has wiring for those fuses
Well since it was dark out I wanted to go try them again and they wouldn’t come on. I wiggled the fuse box and nothing. It wasn’t until wiggle the gear shifter that they came one. Now if the they don’t come on I can just wiggle the shifter and they come on every time. What would cause this? I just put in a new switch that goes on the transmission two days ago.
Last and final update I promise and thanks again. This morning they weren’t working and the wiggling of the fuse box or shifter wasn’t working. I crawled underneath and found out that the wires on the plug for the switch had a short. I could wiggle the wires and get them on. Only a few dollars for the plug on rockauto, so problem solved.
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