Hey,

I am confused at to what is going on. I have my truck which has a dead alternator, however I have one on its way. I had to move my truck the other day so I charged my battery over night.

The truck is a 1996 ranger xlt extended cab 2wd with a 4.0 OHV.

As far as I understand the truck should not need the alternator to start only to run the electronics once the truck is running and to re charge the battery.

So I put in a fully charged battery and tried to start it. I got a rapid fire click click click. Sounded like a machine gum. I then cleaned the terminals and still the same rapid fire click click click.

The starter was rebuilt about a year ago so I am pretty sure that inst it. What are some things that could be causing it?

Also another thing I was wondering. There are two ground wires that connect to the battery. Where dose the thinner one run to? I changed the negative battery terminal and in the process of stripping the wire I tugged on it and I am wondering if that could be the cause of the no start?

 

How long was the battery dead? Could it have gone bad? Try checking the voltage on the battery. In my experience the clicking is usually a sign of not enough juice to turn over the engine.

 

The battery has 14.3 volts. It was never actually dead but I did replace it with one with more Cold Cranking Amps. So the one I have in it now has been sitting in my shop for about a year. However I did charge it overnight.

 

Car Battery on it's own with 14.3 volts is bad, I would also confirm volt meter is working, because 12volt car batteries can't generate 14+volts

You are correct car doesn't need an alternator to run, so with a good battery engine will start and drive , but only for 1/2 hour to and hour without head lights on, depends on batteries charge when you start.


New battery will have 12.8v = 100% life
12.4v = 75% life
Battery that's due to be replaced will have 12.2v and may not crank starter on cold morning

With engine running and good alternator voltage at the battery will be over 14volts just after starting, then will drop down to 13.6volts(approx.) to maintain battery's 12.x volts, that's the extra power the alternator puts out, the regulator keeps the voltage below 15volts and above 13.5volts

If your alternator failed it can take a battery with it, if you don't catch it in time.
Alternator can start putting out 15+volts all the time, this will "cook" the battery.
Or it can output 12.8v or lower and that will slowly discharge the battery.

Car batteries are made to quickly discharge amps(start an engine), then quickly recharge, long power drains kill them.
Deep Cycle batteries are made for long drains, but they don't start engines well, they do work just not well.

If you have someone to crank engine, put volt meter on battery.
Then have them crank the engine, voltage should not drop below 9.5volts
To do a proper load test unhook coil and crank engine for 15 seconds, voltage should not drop below 9.2volts.

 

Just went back to the shop. The battery is putting out 10.8V. Ill use a different battery and post back with results.