Pre-bled clutch master cylinder
Pre-bled clutch master cylinder
I've bled my clutch line a few times, with very short-lived improvement. I'm guessing I'm not doing it right. Either way, I'm wanting to install a pre-bled line, but I'm wondering if there are easy ways to even screw that up. Any advice on the install of a pre-bled line to ensure no air gets introduced to the system?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Unplug masters connector to slave
Unhook master push rod from clutch pedal arm
Unscrew the reservoir on firewall
Unbolt master from firewall
Twist it
Pull out the old master with reservoir
Put in the new master, bolt it in
Screw reservoir to firewall
secure new pushrod to clutch pedal
feed master hose down to slave
Remove cap on reservoir and pull out Air Cup
Open bleeder on slave, have a pan under it
Reconnect Master hose to slave
Fluid should start to run out of bleeder, close bleeder if you see no air bubbles, wait if you see bubbles until no bubbles
Check reservoir, top up if needed
Reinstall air cup and cap
You are done
Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air, that why there is an Air Cup in reservoir, reservoir need to be vented so fluid can flow into master in case of a leak, the air cup limits contact with air but still allows fluid to flow out to master as needed
Unhook master push rod from clutch pedal arm
Unscrew the reservoir on firewall
Unbolt master from firewall
Twist it
Pull out the old master with reservoir
Put in the new master, bolt it in
Screw reservoir to firewall
secure new pushrod to clutch pedal
feed master hose down to slave
Remove cap on reservoir and pull out Air Cup
Open bleeder on slave, have a pan under it
Reconnect Master hose to slave
Fluid should start to run out of bleeder, close bleeder if you see no air bubbles, wait if you see bubbles until no bubbles
Check reservoir, top up if needed
Reinstall air cup and cap
You are done
Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air, that why there is an Air Cup in reservoir, reservoir need to be vented so fluid can flow into master in case of a leak, the air cup limits contact with air but still allows fluid to flow out to master as needed
Air gets into the Master if you let the clutch reservoir run dry, very very hard to get that air out because of the angle of the Master cylinder
If there was a leak in the slave or the hose air can be sucked in every time you release the clutch pedal, it sucks in air because air is easier to move than fluid
Gravity bleeding is always the first thing to do, on clutch or brake slaves, and you don't need a helper, lol
Pedal bleeder with a helper can push air stuck in the hose out, but in the case of the clutch master it won't help because of the angle
You can pull out the master and angle rear up so any trapped air will now be by the hose end, then have a helper open the bleeder on slave while you push in the pushrod/piston, forcing any air out into the hose and then out into slave and able to bleed out
If there was a leak in the slave or the hose air can be sucked in every time you release the clutch pedal, it sucks in air because air is easier to move than fluid
Gravity bleeding is always the first thing to do, on clutch or brake slaves, and you don't need a helper, lol
Pedal bleeder with a helper can push air stuck in the hose out, but in the case of the clutch master it won't help because of the angle
You can pull out the master and angle rear up so any trapped air will now be by the hose end, then have a helper open the bleeder on slave while you push in the pushrod/piston, forcing any air out into the hose and then out into slave and able to bleed out
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Kysus
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Jul 21, 2011 06:34 PM



