pulling to the left bad when braking
pulling to the left bad when braking
This just started today. Had an alignment done about a month ago. However my steering gear box is warn out and needs to be replaced. Was fine up untill today. Any thoughts as to what it could be? could it just be that my gear box is so warn out that it's causing the problem?
x2
Had a similar problem in my Expo and that's what it was. But it was to the extreme and ruined everything.
Done any brake work recently?
If it's not bad I wouldn't worry about it.
Had a similar problem in my Expo and that's what it was. But it was to the extreme and ruined everything.
Done any brake work recently?
If it's not bad I wouldn't worry about it.
Last edited by seed60; Dec 22, 2009 at 08:36 PM.
when i got the alignment done I had them do the rear drums and they checked out the front for me. It was fine up untill today
So if the caliper is sticking whats the best way to fix it?
Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,390
Likes: 3
From: Plattsburgh, New York
Get new calipers or get new slide pins and use caliper grease on them...
DON'T ignore it. a caliper bolt could be missing, mine was pulling right before the SAS, on tear down i discovered one was missing. If that ***** comes off on the road, your gonna be in for a world of hurt.
another possibility is a sticking caliper, remedy is a new caliper.. they're pretty cheap so don't bother trying to rebuild it.
third it could be a sticky slide pin, take them out and make sure they're well lubricated. You may think its another BS thing the parts stores try to sell you but its probably the only thing they try and sell you that actually does a damn thing.
Hell maybe the brake line on the right side is ****ed up so only the left caliper is grabbing.
just don't ignore it, please.
another possibility is a sticking caliper, remedy is a new caliper.. they're pretty cheap so don't bother trying to rebuild it.
third it could be a sticky slide pin, take them out and make sure they're well lubricated. You may think its another BS thing the parts stores try to sell you but its probably the only thing they try and sell you that actually does a damn thing.
Hell maybe the brake line on the right side is ****ed up so only the left caliper is grabbing.
just don't ignore it, please.
DON'T ignore it. a caliper bolt could be missing, mine was pulling right before the SAS, on tear down i discovered one was missing. If that ***** comes off on the road, your gonna be in for a world of hurt.
another possibility is a sticking caliper, remedy is a new caliper.. they're pretty cheap so don't bother trying to rebuild it.
third it could be a sticky slide pin, take them out and make sure they're well lubricated. You may think its another BS thing the parts stores try to sell you but its probably the only thing they try and sell you that actually does a damn thing.
Hell maybe the brake line on the right side is ****ed up so only the left caliper is grabbing.
just don't ignore it, please.
another possibility is a sticking caliper, remedy is a new caliper.. they're pretty cheap so don't bother trying to rebuild it.
third it could be a sticky slide pin, take them out and make sure they're well lubricated. You may think its another BS thing the parts stores try to sell you but its probably the only thing they try and sell you that actually does a damn thing.
Hell maybe the brake line on the right side is ****ed up so only the left caliper is grabbing.
just don't ignore it, please.
no, our trucks have independant front suspension...
i would put $20 on the fact that your braking problem lies in your right front brakes, and almost certain that it is a caliper problem, like people have said above, either sticking or slide pin, it could also be a pinched brake line though... to test the caliper, take the caliper off, put the pads in the caliper, and a piece of plywood in the gap that the disk would go, have someone press on the brakes, see if the piston moves smoothly, it won't move far, with light to moderate pressure on the pedal, you shouldn't be able to pull that plywood out (6inch by 8inch piece of wood) if this all seems fine, chances are it's your slide pins, sand em down with some emry cloth and use anti seize lubricant on it...
if the caliper piston does NOT move easily, put it back on the disk, and try a bleeding procedure, this may fix the problem, as there could just be an air bubble in the system, or if there is a pinched line, very little fluid will come out, if bleeding the system does not work, and the flow of brake fluid seems proper, i would think the caliper is toast... they usually go for less than $50 each, (for vehicles in general) i am not sure about rangers though, and i would replace both sides at the same time, while you are at it, a set of pads is worth it, as you will have them out at the same time... and a set of rotors wouldn't be a bad idea either, although this is not necissary, depending on the conditions of your old rotors...
remember, if it pulls to the right on braking, the left side is the problem, if it pulls to the left, the right side is the problem. Also remember that any time that the fluid system is opened up, that they need to be fully bled. and all work should be equal side to side... even something as simple as sanding the slider pins and using anti seize lube, you should do the same to the otherside, otherwise the "problem side" may work considerably better than the side that was working "ok" to begin with
i would put $20 on the fact that your braking problem lies in your right front brakes, and almost certain that it is a caliper problem, like people have said above, either sticking or slide pin, it could also be a pinched brake line though... to test the caliper, take the caliper off, put the pads in the caliper, and a piece of plywood in the gap that the disk would go, have someone press on the brakes, see if the piston moves smoothly, it won't move far, with light to moderate pressure on the pedal, you shouldn't be able to pull that plywood out (6inch by 8inch piece of wood) if this all seems fine, chances are it's your slide pins, sand em down with some emry cloth and use anti seize lubricant on it...
if the caliper piston does NOT move easily, put it back on the disk, and try a bleeding procedure, this may fix the problem, as there could just be an air bubble in the system, or if there is a pinched line, very little fluid will come out, if bleeding the system does not work, and the flow of brake fluid seems proper, i would think the caliper is toast... they usually go for less than $50 each, (for vehicles in general) i am not sure about rangers though, and i would replace both sides at the same time, while you are at it, a set of pads is worth it, as you will have them out at the same time... and a set of rotors wouldn't be a bad idea either, although this is not necissary, depending on the conditions of your old rotors...
remember, if it pulls to the right on braking, the left side is the problem, if it pulls to the left, the right side is the problem. Also remember that any time that the fluid system is opened up, that they need to be fully bled. and all work should be equal side to side... even something as simple as sanding the slider pins and using anti seize lube, you should do the same to the otherside, otherwise the "problem side" may work considerably better than the side that was working "ok" to begin with
Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,598
Likes: 14
From: Upstate,NY
Don't discount a problem with the rear brakes even though they were just worked on.If the left rear is adjusted properly and the right rear is no where near touching the drum when the brakes are applied , that will also cause it to pull left .
true, but rear brakes do at most 40% of the braking, on a p/u, it tends to be closer to 20% if not lower, due to the low weight in the rear when unloaded, if one were to be out, you would still have braking at the front on both sides, so you would notice a drop of about 10-15% in braking, which is not very noticable... along with the front brakes, tend to want to turn the steering wheel...
to check the rear brakes, to see if it is them, drive at around 30 km/h (not sure what that is in miles, but it's what the speed limit in school zones/park zones are up here) and press your parking brake pedal, see if it pulls, i would do this on flat, level ground, if the truck doesn't turn, it's the front brakes...
the other thing you CAN do, but is not exactly safe, is when driving in an empty parking lot, at low speed (5mphish) tap the brakes, while not holding the steering wheel, and when i say tap, i mean give it a good solid tap and let off right away, if your steering wheel turns, it's your front... it will probably turn about 1/8th to 1/4 turn
to check the rear brakes, to see if it is them, drive at around 30 km/h (not sure what that is in miles, but it's what the speed limit in school zones/park zones are up here) and press your parking brake pedal, see if it pulls, i would do this on flat, level ground, if the truck doesn't turn, it's the front brakes...
the other thing you CAN do, but is not exactly safe, is when driving in an empty parking lot, at low speed (5mphish) tap the brakes, while not holding the steering wheel, and when i say tap, i mean give it a good solid tap and let off right away, if your steering wheel turns, it's your front... it will probably turn about 1/8th to 1/4 turn
Thanks for the info guys, but I know its the front for sure. I have to fight the truck from going left when braking. Next week i'm going to take it back to the shop. Since I had them check over it and its only been about a month since that work was done.
